copemech

I shall try to ease your pain a bit, but not too much. In a quick read through your report, I did not see that you had checked the earth on the CDI, which must be tight and clean, or eliminated the kill button/switch, which could be shorted. Other than that, contact Splatshop Chris for component parts to swap(CDI and stator)to isolate the problem. I think '03 was the split year for ignitions and it could be Ducati or Leonelli, so you may need to remove the flywheel cover to see what you got. The Ducati was clearly marked as I recall on the rotor. The early Leonelli was the one with no timing index marks and required some odd adjustment with a timing pin, so in this case be careful to note original stator plate position to go back the exact same if possible. I have never heard of a recall on this side of the pond, nor the forums, but? Isolation using a meter has been historically iffy and poor, as we have no real way of dynamic testing these things in the field.

.025in or 0.6mm

Ok, well heres how all that goes. The cap is on top of the rad and you gotta pull the tank. It is crammed in there with the electrics and stuff and hard to get to, still. Usually takes a screwdriver to tap it counter then push it round a couple turns to get it off and out of the way. Need a long skinny funnel to get fluid back in, or make one using a wax paper cone. I think a 50/50 mix of green etheline glycol(green) and distilled water is sufficient, or you can buy the premixed stuff at cycle shops. Hard to see in there without a mirror, but you need to fill it to cover the rad cores and a little over allowing some expansion space. Most just top them off, then let them expell the excess when they warm up, but if you have a cheap syringe with a rubber host and can draw out 10ml-15 or so to give it some headspace for expansion, this is best. Maybe a pint or so is all it takes. Then fumble about with some long marrow pliars or something to hold the cap in line while pushing it round with ehe bloody screwdriver till tight and a tap for securement. No probs with trapped air that I have seen. So Bob is yer mothers brother!

I'll keep an eye out if it floats down here! Where were you when you lost it?

Good one, Doug!

Very nice!

There is allways a risk, normal airshows take a strict line tht keeps the planes away from the spectators, however Reno being the ultimate round course is different. They keep separation like anyone else, but? Think that makes two P51's lost this year in accidents. One could comment about paying the top money(and associated risk) for the front row seats in this case, but they knew the risk, so did the pilot! Probably printed on the entry ticket! Yet overall, chances of just getting there and back in a car(no less a bike) would likely rival! Pay your money and take your chances here, life is too short to go without it!

Do as you like, I have never had a bad screw

385 L and 370 R, once you remove the rh damper unit and pump all the old stuff out! Otherwise it will overfill!

Get it on with a normal tube an be fine! Just get it on the beads, I think! They are odd so not much info.

Hey, yea, soo far, but time will tell. Today is the first day in months we got some real rainshowers. Not enough, but it will help! MC

All good then, Cheers!

Although I suppose I have become a bit numb to the rap music,(which is not really music, just a beat with jargon)I would probably find it better with something more moderate in the background. Reminds me of DuPonte stuff. Good mix with engine sounds balanced and good riding! Imagine what one could do with a real camera!

Where is Ohio?

Never done a Scorpa, but in a general sense I can tell you that a bit of heat from a blowgun may not hurt. The terms "press and tap" are usually achieved with a proper sized implement and a suitable drift or socket while someone holds the thing in position against a solid surface.

The bikes are all good, ridership tends to vary upon area. As a new rider, you might want to stick with nothing bigger than a 250, but you are well advised to ride a few different bikes, at some point you still will need to pick your poison and ride what you brung, cause none of them are perfect either!

Post from one of the guys south of here: A Montesa after a fire is a puddle of aluminum with a little bitty >> engine in the middle. No tires wheels frame bars...nothing. >> Grotesque. >>

Need some blues!

Think I'll stick to the original lyr!

I really hate to hear that news as I consider him something of a hero to me. He did a lot of promotion for aviation here as well. As far as the film scene goes, he has been aroun for as long as I can remember, a number of war movies along with other stuff. But the PT 109 film is the one that comes to mind. It was reported that he was hand picked by JFK to represent himself, quite a complement I would think!(As a sidenote, I seem to recall that book as the first real book I ever read at a young age.) Seems like all the old heros are dieing off, RIP.

Mind you that place is about 3 good hours south of here, but here ain't no better. The fields here are absolute toast. I took the little Serow out for a bit of a trail ride today. I was really surprised to find the wooded trails covered in leaves as the trees are shedding early! Simply drying up! Forecast 100f tomorrow and 105F Tuesday! No rain in sight!

Hot and dry here for too long, ni rain in sight! Fires just outside of Austin have consumed more than 30,000 acres and hundreds of homes. Not good! We are in a tinderbox here, with a few less trees and further north, but?

Not sure what is different on the 321 reeds. Might call Adrin at Lewisport of Mike at Tryals Shop. The dual stage ones are likely the ones you want, and much less costly than VF.

Perhaps your clutch lever is not adjusted properly! There chould be some slight clearance where the pin on the lever pushes the piston in the M/C, otherwise it cannot return fully and vent the heated fluid.

ATF does work. Makes the clutch a bit more snatchy as compared to the thicker gear oils. Far as I have seen, 10-40 is still the factory recco. Translating that into a light gear oil is difficult because they use a different scale that equates to 75W or 80W or such. The thicker oils tend to keep the clutch a bit more progressive, but it seeme to me that it is more prone to the "cold stick" issue as well. It can be difficult to really get heat into the motor on a cold day in an effort to get things flowing as well. So a lot may depend upon what you want and your usage.