copemech

Cannae tatoo on a big stick, can you?

Yea, well seems you answered your own question here. Sorry, cought your post late in theday, but yes, it seems nothing but a shunt to ground for excess voltage. This being the case, I am not sure that a load is neccessary, as on the bike there may be no immediate load it seems. Yet I do wonder a bit about rectification, as it does seem ;ogical to me that these things are designed for DC and that must be done prior for things to work properly. They just shunt off the ac half wave as well, but it does make me wonder a bit of chicken and egg theory here. The fan being your only true DC item.

All the reason to go ride the new one and chew on Malc's ear! I hear they are brill! As stated, I ain't gonna test pilot for any new brand, The Sherco is well refined now!

As I recall that bike (290)still came with the Dellorto VHST 28, as compared to the PHBL(round slide)on the 250. I have not owned one of these carbs, yet it is said that they are very sensitive to float level settings to within 0.5mm +- from the factory setting. I think it takes some real patience to make this carb work really well, and I would highly reccomend you give Chris Pearson at Splatshop UK a ring to discuss your best options here. Depending upon your requirements, you may be better off with a standard PHBL that tends to be less jikky in it's running, or there are other options.

That is all good to a point, but in a really big down, it happens by itself! Front is fully weighted and enguaged!

I hope this link works for Ham! My link

Which carb is onit?

I would think the PHBL should work fine, as the later ones used it as I recall. It is a simple carb and may be better than the PHBH in simplicity alone. Insure the fuel inlet(banjo)screen is clean. The round thing! Even off a GasGas, they all run similar jetting. I would think your pilot jet should be something in the 33-36 range, and the main jet in the 115-125 range. Needle clip in the mid range, the bike should run ok, with small changes depending upon your fuel. Be sure the jets and small passages in the carb are totally clean, and adjust fuel screw (1.5-3.5)range, for best response.

In a way this is why you do not want to overwind them in the first place. In the range of the spring, the 20mm or so static drop may still apply. Not more than 30. In the mud you gotta let the rear dig for traction, which means keeping your weight back. If you r bike has the fork tubes raised in the clamps, you may want to extend them to flush as well, which helps transfer weight to the rear.

One good thing about black is it only comes in one color! Well allmost, as you got Gloss, semi-flat and flat texture! Find your poison and skuff it a bit to blend. Rattle can heaven!

Tape and Krylon, carefully applied ! Or get some of them rim stickers from Ryan!

Yea, kinda what I was thinking, or depending upon how it has been used, possibly some well worn grooves in the clutch basket. What came to mind, anyway!

Lern to drop the knees! You cannor ride rigid!

Yes, you are confusing us! Depending upon which condition you are referring to with your symptoms. Basics #1= Throttle chop ping is something of a normal condition, as you have just cut off the fuel to the motor(goes lean). I presume this is a dellorto carb? Increasing pilot jet size can help minimize this(33 to 35/36) range, as the carb is then able to provide more fuel through tht transition circuit on throttle chop. Will likely require you decrease the fuel screw setting a bit for best idle.(2turn range rather than three) Is it still running ok otherwise now?

Not sure I am adventurous enough to become one of their test pilots! I have issues with 4T's in competition, but I gotta admit that 250 Evo 4T is a real pussycat for a punter, and can still muster some real grunt!

I hope to have one(ST) in the not too distant future!

How to compare? As they are reaLLY DIFFERENT! Not much wrong with the '05 if you find a nice example, fundamentally solid bike! Priced right i would think. The '10's are a different breed, better in many respects. Different design that one must adjust to, and with it's own quirks, yet owerall still a better bike. I think this comes doun to Basic or Bling for the Buck!

You got a problem with that? GTF out my shed!

I cannot comment directly on your year model, as mine is '07, yet on mine, seems I must run the adjuster screw all in(full rebound damping), then back out 3-4 click range to ge a moderate amount of rebound damping. More clicks out and the thing seems too quick(pogo). I do not think compression damping is changed by this, so it seems. It does get sensitive to change within the shorter end range of the screw. No real idea what is in there, yet I am thinking the center rod is nothing but a tapered orface rod at the other end. Obvoiusly sealed and may be tight to move, yet mine does seem to change readly with the screw and a bounce on the rear for a feel.

OK then, easy peasy method i use. Just get on the left side of the bike and stand it straight up on it's wheels. Reach round and grab the muff outlet, pull up and push down gently, there should be movement there in both directions(as it is floating under the bikes own weight) which it should. Now get a good feel for the neutral point there within the float, that is your static sag point. If you are able to pull up more than 30mm or so, you might want to wind the spring up a bit. A heavier rider might want to decrease this lost travel by a bit and reduce that a bit more. All said, a real heavy fellow may want to take all this to near zero, yet that defies certain suspention theory reasioning and is not advised by me. It needs to float a bit! You can put measures to all this from the axle to a point on the bike if you wish, yet it is mostly done by feel in my world. As it seems it just needs to be in range for what it is. If there were more available spring alternatives, then we might change the measure to the (loaded)rider side, yet this static side would not change much.

In a nutshell, NO!

Thats the first I heard of the old ones non available, never tried to modify one. Ring up Splatshop Chris to get his take onit. RYP in the US may have the old ones as well. I know they are different, yet cannot recall specifics.

At your given weight, I would suggest around 10-20mm range of static sag(weight of bike only, on its wheels), possibly closer to the 10, depending upon preferance. That's about all you can do , as heavier springs are like unobtanium it seems, and you are kinda on the at the top end of what the stock springs handle, however I have known many much heavier riders get along just fine.

10,000 men were asked the following in a survey: "What is it that you like about oral sex?" 3% like the warm intimacy 4% like the excitement of the unusual 93% like the quiet

Seem you need to tell the lad the truth before the lad finds out dad is a doushbag!