copemech

Seem you need to tell the lad the truth before the lad finds out dad is a doushbag!

(in best Hank Hill voice) Gee Billy, do they really sell that kind of stuff? I just doo 12 oz curls!

One thing here Billy, "It is basically matching the gap to get the best out of the mags ability. Simple so far? BUT here is where the crazy part comes in to play. The bigger the gap (within the effective range of the mags output) in other words widening the gap at the widest part of its effective range will afford a spark that is longer in duration," Within a conventional system, it will require more of the stored coil energy to iniate the spark on the wider gap, thus reducing the duration in that cycle as energy is depleted early on.

And I hope Billy does not go round trying to light fires with his little UV light sabre!

Jon must be reeling by now after a take at Billys rambling prose! There within, I find good and bad points. My basic farmboy take is simple, and does not disagree with some of his points. Firstly, IS the system optimized by the factory settings? Or is this simply a conservative reliable setting that may be used for the sake of whatever lack of problems. Engineers tend to build up to a point, then back down for reliability in productiion. Second , The range on preffered gap settings as stated by Lovio is quite wide. (theory still suggests that he can push the gap up under his lower density conditions, providing the mix is not too lean) Thirdly, Going along with the first statement, I will admit that I have been somewhat conservative in my personal experimentation, for some obvious reasons, yet the(my) results seem to be reliable and working(at .028 plug gap) so the system has thus far supported it without issue for several years now.. Within common ignition theory , one will find two common issues, gap and duration of fireing. Both provide better exposure to the combustion gass moving within the chamber as the mixture must be exposed to the electrical ionization to ignite it properly. The system will either reliably support the gap and or duration, or it will not, all mostly depending upon ultimate load imposed upon the arc. Throttle openings and mixtures come into play. Then we get into another potential issue here within system design, and to be honest, I do not really and totally know what we are dealing with. They call these things a digital CDI in some or most cases, although I must admit the fact that neither I or many have no idea just exactly what is in these little boxes that actually control things. Seems there is little out there, and although I would somewhat compare it all to a lawnmower with an electronic ignition, functonal testing seems nil via conventional means. The things are reported to have a timing curve to them, so they must be somehow manipulated by the electrics. As an example I use the Leonelly basic diagram used in the Sherco which suggests 2 charge coils and 3 hall effects to run it! Are they charging caps? Very possible. Now within all that, I may fathom it being true CDI, but being CDI in itself it is also limited to the spark dration limitations inherent in the system, and thusly there is a quick voltage dump through the primary coil and a resultant burn time of about 1 ms which is not altered by the demands of gap requirement, it is either achieved or not all in one quick shot by the capacitive dump. Ones gap being the last resort in achiving the best flamefront exposure possible, which should be open and exposed as you do not have a second chance here.

I think possibly so, more due to misfire than anythin else!

Now I am getting a headache! First Billy, now you! For a given altitude, a lowering of temps would create a higher air density, therefore requiering the airscrew opening to be reduced(or fuel screw increased) in an effort to attain the same mixture for the engine(same jets). You gotta ritchen the mix that the denser air has created.

Spill your bleeding liver, Billy!

Jon, I should have said "every outing" as I do allways try to give things a good run at some point. It does seem to me that short runs between sections, shutting off the bike to walk sections and such, then more cold starts are kinda hard on things. They really doo cool off quickly in the winter months. As an afterthought, some of this may also depend upon your last name. Raga, Cabestany, and a few others come to mind!

Timing should be fine in the original position set along the right edge. If you did decide to retard it a bit you turn the plate counter so the mark on the stator plate is well inside the casting web. No real need to mark it, just measure the distance. The exact numbers here, either in degrees or mm BTDC are not important, as you just need them in the proper range for proper operation. If it is kicking back or stalling too easily, kick it back just a tad bit. If it is just too aggressive in the power for you, go a tad more. All to taste! As Tim stated, a -5/6 mm would be maximum reccomended retard, with -3/4 being mid, and -1/2 being minimal change.

Livio, there is a lot of science, and a lot of simple logic it seems behind all this. Far too much to get into here, as I am not a good typist! I have nothing Beta specific for you, yet systems are all similar in the fact they are all still limited to what is a limited system as used on trials bikes. Basically a magneto system, less points! To light off fuel/ air mix, you need spark, and the better exposure you can give to the mixture yields the best results(flamefront propagation), thus, run your gap as wide as reliably possible for the ignition to support. At your altitude, I think you could run 0.7mm or .028 or even more, with no problems due to decreased air density(resistance the spark has to reliably jump). This is what provides better power at lower speeds. Plug fouling, in a 2T, oil is an obvious enemy. You gotta keep it burnt off, and trials conditions are not allways conducive to that, takes some heat in the motor and a good run and load to blow out excess oil and heat the thing up!. I try to do at least one good run every startup just to keep things clean, less they load up and fail! Daily ride maintenance! Rev it out till it clears under load! Good thing here is standard plugs are disposable, chunk them at the first indication of poor running or hard starting. I think the platinum and irridium plugs may offer some advantage as well, in resistance to fouling and better flamefront exposure due to the smaller and more open electrodes, yet if not maintained, you have just fouled an expensive plug. Best I recall, my current platinum plug came out of my '05 bike, went into my '07 bike, and is still there, at least for today! And at .028 on the Sherco.

Never seen it, but if they don't like the shoes? Well, they can go ---- themselves!

I thought most were running 50:1 in the air cooled(trials) motors. Others may chime in here.

I am not saying that it absolutly will not foam in this application, however it Does have decent anti-foaming additives, and has been used many times, particularly in older bikes of several varieties, however, the newer bikes are tuned for 4-5w, and I may not reccomend it as it may be a bit harsh on the compression stroke.

Hell, that was my workout for the day!

So in other words, sounds as though you may leave it alone, as a new one will settle after a bit of riding!

I think it is Central Wheels in the UK. You gotta know the offset, if any.

Very innovative! Has no throttle as it is fly by wire via bluetooth voice command in your headset. Must require proper voice training of various curse words to get on and stop the fecking thing!

Nice bike still! It just struck me just how good that bike could bee as an all rounder trail/trials bike with possibly a slightly larger tank and seat and a bit here and there(real brakes). Pye seems to get around the SSDT quite well onit! I would have to do that kinda stuff as I cannot afford too much titanium!

Job requires a proper prick! "How did he know" , he asks!

One for John boy!

As I recall, it is indeed that type screw on thing. Needs a good basic contact with the wire core, that is all!

Think of it like thism if you went from say an 11t to a 10t, you have reduced the driving gear by near 10%= big change! Will it make first more usable? Depends upon what you want to use it for. May no longer get you the speed to get over that two foot rock. Pro putting more slowly, yes. As an average it will be near a 3-4 tooth change on the rear. Do the final drive ratio math. 42/10= 4.2:1, 42/11= 3.82:1, 44/11= 4.0:1 or in the middle w/2t on the rear, so it would require 4 on the rear to = the 1 on the front!

Look up Mike at Tryals Shop in NY. He has parts and info!