copemech

Good on you then Clarky! I would be intrested to see your findings on just how much adjustment range is available ont the Beta, and indeed the type of ignition. Yes, factory timing is a tradeoff. I have generally found it requires a 2mm or so change to find a noticable difference in performance when trying to tame a bike, yet the 1.5mm may be just enough to offset a kickback, and with that should also come a proportional resistance to stalling at low revs. I have never felt bad about a little performance loss on a big bore bike, as for me they are excess to begin with. Saves my arm sockets once past half throttle!

There are tutorials on both the Sherco and Gasser websites if you need them.

Couple of things I will throw out to you, Tony. As you mentioned tight turns specifically, try riding in second gear as compared to first. First reacts quicker due to the torque multiplication of the ratio. It is actually easier to make the clutch slip in second, or even third if to exagerate the effect. Second, might try running the experiment of removing two opposing springs in the pack. I have run this now for quite some time, and I have come to like it. Light lever pull and more progressive. MC

Personally, I find all this debate over no -stop somewhat offensive to trials in general! As a relative newcomer still, at just a couple years or a decade, I cannot compare to the knowledge and history of many of the great riders on this forum, however, it is my belief that the rules of the times were written for a reason and to be interpreted within the spirit of the trial (trials contest). I do not believe the term no-stop was derrived to address a slight pause or balance ck on flat ground, but yet the lack of forward progression that may occur when one is stalled on an uphill rock or log, and connot progress within a reasonable period of time even with a dab or two, he has just ceased forward progression and thus a failure on the course. Next rider! He may either be able to recover , or not, without signifigant rollback for advantage, not just rocking the bike on the rock. Come the stop allowed rules, allowed progression in the skillset to stop, hop setup for an obsticle. Now if you want to cut out all the BS fecking about, just put in the time limit! Nothing has ever sataed that the time limits could not be set per section! It could vary! I guess if we are going to five all for a stalled motor balanced recovery, we might as well delete other skills such as walking and chewing gum! So then I take all this no stop to WTC level! Here I really need to get some points off these guys, because it is really hard to do without killing them in the process! So what do I do? Tell the observers to be leinient! Now that is all good for the clubman, as in the first part and the spirit of the trials, yet at this level? I say NO! If I see the spokes stop turning, you are done! Sory Mr Bou, etc! I need to hand out some points today, thanks for playing, better luck next time around! All point being, they are in a different league, it is not what we as mortals ride, it is a circus! And it is really effing with the rest of us because of it! Other new rules as well, such as toutching a marker! That is total bollox on a club level! Marker displacement is one thing, but "toutching it"? Get friggin real! Many do not have enough ground to set a decent trial in the first place! Sections must be tight in some given areas. I think all this has come way too far fron not putting feet down, folks confused and peed off! Cannot work this way!

What did you do? Did you allow air into the system?

If your bike has a Dellorto installed, do not overlook the possibility of Too Small pilot jet installed. They will run smooth and all, yet have no guts off the bottom. So if you ard down round 30 way on the size, I would estimate you need to go up to bout 36 on modern(alc) fuels. No fuel= no power!

Finding 74.8% on that crap is difficult and requires precise front placement. Precicion blips and unloading require near perfect timing. Might try a single blip, so just lift the front a bit before the obsticle, let it bounce off the log at the halfway point which will give you the height to clear the plate. Anticipate the rear wheel strike and unload with yoyr knees as the rear hits the log so the rear can come up under as you shut the throttle. Hopefully you will have enough revs and momentum to carry over if done right.

That is good information. Where did you find the part? What is the difference between the two part numbers?

Replace with known good parts!

Seems many run ATF in the Gassers by reports on the threads. I have no specifics, yet once again it does seem to be tougher than one may think. Whatever Synth and additve properties seem to be good enough with some of the ATF to gat a "fill for life" rating with no service interval. Who's life, I am not sure? Seems many car engines are nor speced for 5-20w and such as well, for maximum fuel effiency. That stuff is p*** thin as well, but it does work as long as it is clean and fresh!

That would be a good question! Not sure if you will find a spec on it! I do not even have positive confirmation of which system is on the Evo. Is it a Hydria? I found some info on a Leonelli system at one point which suggested as much as 110Watts. Now that is not going to light the world, but it should push a decent high intensity LED lamp I believe.

If the bolt did move prior to it breaking, you may try to extract the broken part, or take to machinest. I have seen them stuck hard on the remaining bit and near impossible to remove with basic tooling.

I am not aware of any specific reports of this issue over time, however? I 'd ask the larger dealers or importer just to see how many sold. Not sure where you are located.

You will adjust.

Obviousy it becomes a bit more difficult to properly lube certain 4T motors with combined motor/ gearbox vs separate items. However I seem to recall running my Hondas on 30wt with no issues back in the day, change it often. I think some of that stuff is overmarketed(spell overpriced), synthetics and all. The manufacturers provide basic recco to attend to. Not that the synthetic oils do not provide certain advantages in some applications, yet my basic findings over time remains the same. "The best oil is clean fresh oil"

No and Yes, respectively.

I understand what you are asking, and purely from a wear standpoint, I have no problems with fluids such as ATF, low vis and designed for clutches. Auto transmissions have many, also many gears in planetary systems. ATF has also been used in many manual transmissions and transfer cases over time. As many oils of various types will possibly contain certain friction modifiers and high stress additives, the viscosity is not the only potential issue. Some will prefer a quick clutch bite, others more progressive. Others have reported miricle cures with certail types of oils in certain bikes, yet no reports of wear issues reguardless of their content of additives. I heard the GasGas croud a number of years ago stating ATF causing clutch pack swelling and they were on the Autotrack II fluid, but I have not heard that lately, as it seems they are sensitive to pack thickness by design. Long story made short, go with what works in your bike design, or in some cases, take the time to do some refinement on your bike such as the Beta clutch mod post(which would apply to others such as Sherco) and tune to taste is my motto!

See if you may source some bolts in the meantime, cause you will need them. Splat Chris may have, may not?

Sweet! Now on them little screws that go into the brass, giwe them a little lube and just snug them to tighten, no excess needed!

450ml per change, so you got plenty.

Yes, seems some fatbar risers/clamps are 2-3mm off the Sherco pattern.

Find you a Mont!

Remove caliper(two large bolts), remove small screw and wire widget, pads out bottom. Reverse to reinstall.

I would say go with a 3mm swing from factory setting for a noticeable change. One may roughly relate the distance in mm to degrees. I have not done this on a Beta, but I have done all my 2.9 Shercos in the past and makes them much easier to live with in respect to the kickback and inadvertant stalling.

Once again, I have seen too many of the machines doo this randomly to presume there is a CDI problem if it runs normally otherwise. I am not positive the stator plate will rotate further to retard the timing without modification. Yet another thing one may do is add the additional flyweight, which helps prevent kickback due to the added carrythrough mass.