jezza

It is ALWAYS a buyers market. Why consider a bike with a potential problem when there are plenty of one owner from new bikes out there? Some get bought and get ridden for a few months and then sit in a garage unused in near new condition. If it was me I would look at a few more, as many as you can in fact, it will give you a good idea of what is out there and eventually one will come up that suits your friend. Some owners are very fastidious re cleaning and maintenance, spending as much time cleaning as riding, find one of these and you will be well glad you waited a bit. Top-tip-Ask to look at the bikes air filter, its one of the easiest parts of the bike to maintain but vital for engine longevity, if that is dirty, chances are the bike has not been looked after. Happy hunting

http://www.betamotor.com/download/manuals/items/rev3.pdf try the above

Just thought I would add my 10p worth to this thread. Bought my 06 250 new and have had no problems at all. No fuel leaking, no downhill starting problems noticed and no loose bolts from new. Before the first shake down ride, checked everything and found nothing loose. Checked everything after the first ride and nothing loose. After the second ride, took the necessary bits apart, cleaned and thread locked where needed. I would do this to any new bike and most handbooks would also recommend checking everything for tightness after the first ride as a new bike will need a bedding in period for tolerances to be taken up and stresses and strains put through the wheels, suspension, chassis and engine assembly. I think the PDI on my particular bike must have been thorough (as all PDIs should be) and the carb well set up with good components fitted as standard from the factory. The only gripe I have had is that the standard kill switch was sometimes sticking in the housing so I changed it for a Yamaha style one which is much better in design re prevention of dirt and water ingress. So I hope this shows the other side of the (10p) coin. Had my bike been problematic it would have gone back to the dealer to give them a chance to rectify, after all the goods they sell should be fit for purpose and you have the usual statutory rights. Just as an aside, I have a few tips for this model which have been gleaned from my own experiences of ownership and will post these shortly.

Looks like you got a bargain. Had a look at your web-site, keep posting the updates. You might like to try PJ1 paint for the exhaust, it doesnt require to be baked on as some high temp paints do and gives a nice satin black finish which is very close to the original finishes of the time. I experimented with a few different paints for the exhaust of my 340 Bultaco and this gave the best finish by far. About

back wheel out = 1min rear caliper hose clips removed = 1min bottom shock bolt out =1min chain tensioner bolt out =1min swingarm bolt out =1min tool selection and placement of removed parts =5min access to brake pedal removal achieved =10mins=A Time spent trying to remove brake pedal sans above = B Time spent scratching head/rubbing chin/making tea whilst thinking problem through = C Time to clean removed parts/inspect/regrease/loctite/replace = D Neon, if A+D < B+C then admit defeat. Satisfaction of rebuilding bike knowing everything is nicely greased and necessary parts loctited.......priceless. The above mathmatical equation was derived after many unsuccessful attempts to cheat motorcycle/mechanical physics.

Fueltap Useless But Actually Reconditionable.................................clean off any residue with a standard issue GI sock

As per betarev3's reply re heli-coil, but would take to a specialist engineering firm who are more likely to have the appropriate engineering facilities to carry out the work. Local garage=bodge it * * This is just my personal opinion based on past experiences and no offence is intended to any "local garages" who may offer exceptional service.

As per his riding style, he left the gas on....................................

Will try lubing the cables, I think that might do the trick. Thanks.

Most motocross dealers do clear thick vinyl sheets, try Race Spec uk, look under graphics. Before you fit it, stick it in the airing cupboard for a while so that it becomes pliable and it will make it easier to apply and the glue will take better. Also clean off the area you are going to apply it too with lighter fluid to remove any grease from the surface, even if it looks clean. Try not to touch any of the sticky suface with your fingers or it will leave a fingerprint in the glue that will stay visible after application. Don't know about the Repsol stickers supplier but see above for application. Anyone of a certain age will remember a gluey finger mark on the inside/outside of your Airfix Spitfire canopy unless surgical levels of preparation were taken. Hope this helps

Anyone found a good way to secure the rubber cable guide that sits in the recess by the petrol cap at the top of the tank and houses the clutch, throttle and electrics hose/cables? After prepping my bike after each trial and spending 5 mins fiddling around getting the guide properly re-seated, it usually pops back out again after one left and one right turn. Am thinking about running some black silicone sealent around it but wondered if there is a better way.