jimmyl

Just spent 3 days coaching at Project 2000 3 day camp. We had a mock trial on the Sunday so spent a lot of time ridding short distance from 1 section to the next and parking the bike up to advise my pupils (or do I mean shout at the little b*****rs to keep their feet up). At the end of each lap bike start missing when revved, by the time it had a decent ride back to the first section all OK again . I am presuming that this is the plug sooting up with the continual stop start. Anybody else found this and got any tips to avoid it. 2005 with Sanz map in if it makes any difference. Ta Jimmy

I know in the late 80's my brother used to keep one especially for the snow (not much good for anything else), used to make a huge difference against an X1. Treads would stay clear. I did try once running a X1 at 7 psi in the snow and was a lot better having found letting tyre down made it worse as snow would compact in the treads. Never tried it on a modern X11.

Not sure what I think of the 2 stage idea, taken me 6 months to get used to single stage map. I think a good soft map for clubmen is best solution. If you do trail riding or road trials the 2 stage map idea possibly is a good thing to use between sections. I think having complete familiarity with you bike is best thing overall.

I don't think we need to go down the horse racing or F1 route of combined weight, just the standard bike weight would do. However thinking further we could adopt the horse racing handicap idea. Chuck a bag of cement on Toni Bou's back might make things a bit more equal at the moment. Te He !!!!!!!!

Here is a thought I have had for a while. Why not have a bike minimum weight limit for trials bikes. Reason 4 strokes are heavier but supposed to be better(greener), to get them to weigh less involves shedding metal in the design or using fancy alloys etc 2 strokes are becoming so light that they fall to bits etc etc!!!! A minimum weight limit of say 3kgs or 4kgs heavier than say a modern 4rt would maybe help reduce cost of the bikes and possible allow a little extra weight to be put into silencing them. 2 strokes then could be made a little stronger hence reduce running cost! Would be easy to police with a simple set of scales. A slightly heavier bike might also reduce the ever increasing severity of sections. (unless it falls on you) Just a thought!!!!!!!!!!!

PS Forgot to say this is open to any rider any centre at is run by our Project 2000 scheme

can't fault it, lets get them legal and interested and then they can be really treated as outcast like the rest of us!!!!

West South Wales Center 3 day training camp takes place on 1st, 2nd and 3rd of June. Steve Saunders is guest coach on the Friday and Saturday. Some places are still left. Details can be found on Welshtrials.com

Dave at Sandifords had used my bike for six months or so before I bought it and reverted to the Sanz programme after trying others. I believe he has used this on other 4rts he has used as they come through the shop. Definitely softer at the bottom and quicker at the top and his prefered map. seems to grip well in the mud if you ride it off the throttle but sharp enough to ride aggresive in first if needed.

Got a HRC Laia Sanz map on mine, came with bike S/H from Sandifords. (Told them I rode like a big girl so thats what I got). This seems to be softer at bottom and then comes in sharper at top. Ridden back to back with a couple of 4rts with soft map and harsh map and seems to be the case. I haven't got leads and software to down load but I have seen this map being asked for elsewhere on this site so maybe somebody has a copy to try. Gets temperamental once a month mind

Rode my first trial aged 14 some 28 years ago and can still remember how nervous I was. Could probably of dabbed on a flat field due to nerves but once firsts few section completed its brilliant I guess my point is expect to be nervous as hell but don't worry about it. Just get into the flow of it and try to relax and ENJOY it. Don't be afraid to ask, even the better riders I am sure all would offer advice if asked. Make sure tyre pressures are correct, makes it hard work getting grip with 20 psi in back tyre but I see it a lot with beginners. Make sure all levers, grips etc are in good nick and you can reach them. Make sure brakes work and you can reach back brake pedal. Make sure footrest ain't slopping down helping your feet to slide off. The above wont help you ride better but should hopefully stop you loosing any more marks than necessary. Treat every section at a time and don't worry about what you have just dropped, you can't change that. Just focus on the job in hand. Hope you enjoy and welcome to the fold

Not sure on the Jarvis thing. we marked out some pretty tuff stuff at St Davids and a lot of it was big grippy stuff that you would think would favour the 2 strokes. Jarvis was convincing there so I think he has the hang of the 4 stroke???? To equal out 2 and 4 strokes (and maybe make trials ridding cheaper) why don't we have a minimum weight limit on bikes. Something that would stop the 4 strokes having to be super light and trick and allow the 2 strokes to be better made and more reliable. (75kg say) level playing field just chose the power you prefer!!

No disrespect but I think the 4rt is not going to hold you back in the sections. Too many newcomers buy a big trick bike and spend many month fighting it, then get disillusioned and pack in. (I know, I have done a lot of coaching over the last few years) Buy something soft and ride-able, 4rt with soft program or Beta 200!!!( i think Betas are up with the best quality wise) I have had Mont's for last 9 years, 2nd hand 315s, 1 new 315 and a s/hand 05 4rt. I can't fault Montesa (Honda) build quality. I think this is true on and off road. I know when I bought mine this year second hand from Sandifords they said they had only sold 1 piston for a 4rt after selling approx 1,000 bikes. Maybe Bull S***t but I'm not sure. Hope this helps

Another lot of top photos. Don't the sun make life look good!

Stunning Photos. I bet a certain weekly papers won't be anywhere near as good. I thought that we had put some tricky section on yesterday but some of the scores where making me think it was maybe a little easy. I think these photos show that these boys are just B***dy Good. Hope you enjoyed. James C of C St Davids

PS Always stop engine with kill switch was also informed. This stop engine in correct sequence? Also if it wont start was told to kick engine over very slowly with throttle open, press kill button to reset ignition map, snap throttle closed ready for start. Seems to work!!

I have 05 which when if not allowed to warm up on tick over will start to mess up plugs. Start and leave well alone for 2 mins. Also when I boiught mine s/hand from Sandifords they expressed how important correct tickover is. If set too low the ingnition and fuel pump is not getting enough charge and will stress the system resulting in bad plugs. hope this helps

Try a link on Welshtrials.com to see if any of the local boys are available. Gary Jenkins might be able to advise or Barrie/Phil Evans at AB Motorcylces might be a good contact. I know Barrie has minded in the past so might have a contact.

I had stator issues on 97 and mate had problems with an 02. Sounds similar to your problems as I re-call. Measure resistance on coils as dictated in manual. Any anomalies try a rewind. I think

Check Montesa forum, several accounts of this. Crankcase seals push out if over filled.

Definately don't split the kit, Haversack or bum bag better as you can drop it off at the end of the section and pick it up after you have cleaned them all. If you have an adjustable don't need the bigger spanners, cut off 1" off the allen keys and weld onto the handle end of the adjustable. Suggest you use the tools you are going to take with you at home first to ensure they are ok for purpose. Not sure if you mentioned pliers. Suggets you run 7 or 8 psi in front tyre as not so critical in SSDT, better than puncture. Last year Gas Gas and Beta both had good pages on SSDT prep, also some general ones on web. Read all and pick best idea. John Lampkins tip of using gaffer tape to make lower half of front mudguard wider saves lots of mud coming off front wheel

I recall previuosly mentioned well known South Yorks rider walking a section at Dob Park in a Yorks centre Trial in he 80's. Said rider was walking up the climb in front of me towards a well positioned rock step onto a slab. As he came closer to the slab he collected a paving stone sized rock which he confidently picked and walked up to the step and placed with both hands in the exact postion he required and just kept walking. No subtility on shuffling with his feet. Best bit of gardening I have ever seen!

Technically I think it is illegal but we all do it. As Rider, observer and C of C I would never complain about somebody moving branches that could be a danger or likely to poke an eye out. Ideally the C Of C and his "band of many helpers" would of done this when marking out, in reality letting riders do a little pruning is ok. Kicking the odd smal rock out of the way seems to go un noticed as does the odd "trip" that just by chance happens to move that big rock out of the way. Rubbing slime of a green stream is almost necessary as nobody would ever start a trial if the sections where left untouched but for absolute perfection you must go to a British Champ and watch the minders (especially those that used to be very good riders themselves). They make an art form out of polishing rocks, building ramps, sprinkling dry earth onto grease boulders and I have even seem minders washing rocks with their gloves before their sponsored rider atempts the sections. I think that may be that is taking the p----s,

Having switched this year from 315 Mont to 2005 4rt suggest if you want to smile when you ride buy a 4rt. Build quality, suspension and reliability better than anything else out there. Ability to flatter in the car park doing tricks maybe not the best choice. I think accept that you need to change technique from a 2 to a four stroke and give it 4 to 5 months. If you are a club man and have choice of a PTB then get a soft map! Look at the SSDT for last few years and look at the most popular and reliable bike, 4rt is there or there abouts. I would buy a newer one tomorrow but as said above, try before you buy but accept a 4rt is not a 2 stroke when you try it. Give you and bike time to adopt correct technique.

Not sure on tensioner other than Sandifords. If it is just the pad then this is standard with all modern bikes so any dealer. Mont stuff seem good value from main dealers. Brake disc float so don't worry if only a mm or 2. Having run 3 315s over 8 years found Castrol TTS fully synthetic very good, approx 50 to 60 to 1. 80cc to 4 litres. Ran ATF in my clutch/gearbox and worked well. Change every 6 weeks as cost is minimal. If you change gearbox oil to other than ATF or Std Elf oil suggest going practicing before as oil has major effect on clutch feel and drag. Enjoy, Top quality bike if if not so fashionable now.