jimmyl

where, when and on what is the trial open for

I have to echo what has been said -why do people want to spend hundred or thousands on bikes or gear but don't want to get involved in the sport?. Easy trials, proper practice sessions, using proper trials ground with others around to support has got to be lots more enjoyable than sneaking round illegal land on your own.

I have been working on 250 (yellow) Beamish and just finished rebuilding after a re-bore. The bike has a new Mikuni carb on it but with right hand mixture screw on it. The carb has the numbers 26 and 8074 stamped by the choke lever and WO 6 1 below the main body The carb is supposed to be set up for a 250 but I have had to put the needle clip on the bottom groove to get any sort of running out of the engine. Still feels very flat. Can anybody advise jetting for 250 reed valve engine.

Montesa bits are not silly price but depends on what is wrong and how good you are on the spanners. HRC build quality of the engine is good so probably been abused or just stood a long time. A tidy 2000 315 is probably worth up to

Similar thing happens as you describe if putting freshly oiled air filter (aerosol type) into the bike. Takes ages to start but if left overnight its fine. I think the air sensor must get confused with the solvent in the air box. Probably similar thing to starting bike with plug in exhaust. Normally have to kick it over several times throttle wide open and then back to reset and throttle closed technique or put it in the garage and have a beer and try in the morning.

Although too late for this post would strongly recommend a Proper Honda chain, comes the right length. last for ages an costs mid

A..T..F

2005 model 4rts did not have the best clutch plates -swap for 2006 onwards. Also check gear oil -change for ATF or the expensive elf oil. maybe do oil first as is the cheapest. If you do swap clutch plates only buy the friction plates -will cost about

Buy the red mudguard 1998 I think -much more flexible than the painted metallic 01 mudguards. Should be able to get mudguards and stickers separate -I know Haven used to do them. You can save a few quid by only buying the main decal, seat and little side decals waste of time IMHO

Bought a large drum several years ago for Merc Auto boxes and been using it since - I think ATF of any manufacture is suitable as it is all made to the big automotive manuafacturs approvals.

Have used ATF in both 315s and 4rt with no problems -I find that clutch action is at least as good as anything else I have tried. By the way ATF stands for Automatic Transmission oil - every modern automatic has several clutch packs and multiple gear sets which make a 4rt clutch and gearbox look like a tractor transmission. Modern atf which has been developed by all the motor manufacturers and major oil companies over the years so I am sure its fine for a trials bike. PS you can change it 10 times for the price of 1 elf change -fresh oil is always better in my mind

I always enjoy Mike's forum. I also enjoy shirties comments and the posts some of the the top riders put on their own web sites linked from TC. As an idea would it be interesting to have a forum where these influential people could post their comments (or duplicate what they put on their own home pages) and be the only people to open up a new topic, we all could comment but not start a new thread. Would give us riders, organizers and spectators and chance to see what the riders and importers are saying in one focused area and allow us a chance to respond. Anybody any thoughts

The pedal normal snaps across the bolt hole for the folding end. This normaly leaves a slot at the end of the pedal. By fileing a piece of alloy to fit into this slot and of a suitable size to get your foot on this can be attached by drilling and tapping from the reverse of the pedal. Worth doing as a spare if nothing else. Hour or so in the garage and the jobs a good one

Hi All The Aberavon Beach Trial has so far raised over

Hi All The Aberavon Beach Trial has so far raised over

07 or 08 Mont should need very little changing unless you want to. A good map on thats soft on the bottom and then a good strong middle and top is all thats needed. Just missed out on 1st class award in SSDT (my fitness not the bike) and won over 40 welsh champ on a 2005 reasonably standard 4rt. You can change want you want but most just for fun

I presume you have checked the normal thing like proper tick over. 4rt need a higher than expected tick-over

If no speedo drive should have a after market spacer on non disc side. If speedo then no spacer.

Sounds like a late 315 -2004 -white plastics. Best of the 315s although all are good. Elf or ATF works well in clutch. Genuine spares are cheaper than you would expect and build quality superb. Good luck

Once filter is loose it is a real fiddle to get it past the flywheel but keep playing and it will pop out. Make sure you sit the filter back in its housing perfectly before tightening the retaining clip, otherwise the spigot on the cover is out of alignment and won't fit into cover. A spot of grease can help hold the spring into the filter when reinstalling it

Mrs Jimmyl is a Dental nurse . Advises against super glue as could cock the job up all together Local NHS should have a emergency number or your dentist should leave an out of hours emergency on call number. Temporary crown stuff is unfortunately the best DIY option

Fresh oiled filter every time out. I always buy a spare filter so have one in the bike and a clean one ready to go in. Use spray on filter oil (putoline at present ) and wash out with washing up liquid. With 4RT and a spray filter oil it seems to confuse air sensor and bike is hard to start initially for first few hours as solvent must fill air box. Once started then never an issue. I have started to get into routine of fitting filter to the mesh as soon as I go into the garage for a fettle. Leave on the bench to breath then put in the air box last thing. Seems better that way.

If most of us stop and hop more than 3 times we are too knackerd to ride the rest of section!!!! Get in, get out and keep your feet up as long as possible has always been my philosophy.

I believe the expert A will be similar to this years expert route in severity but made up of 50% Championship sections and 50% expert B sections. Expert B should then work out easier than this years full expert course. Aimed at centre experts. Out of 12 sections we should have 6 full championship severity, Expert A and B will ride easier route and will be hard expert B sections 6 tricky championship that expert A will ride hard route on and expert B will ride the easier route which should be easeir than this years. C of C are charged with the winner in each class dropping 20 to 30 marks. I guess top 10 to 15 approx of this years experts to stay expert A anybody else to ride expert B. I am sure a grading list is being compiled. Youth will ride expert A I think. Hope that helps. I am sure JC or ACU will correct anything that I hyaven't got quiet right

Most impressive but the phrase which includes sore a*** and trick cyclist come to mind