jimmyl

I have 25lts 1.5hp which works fine and I don't own a beader. Make sure tank is full and valve core is out of the wheel and it normally pops up ok. As I'm too tight/lazy to buy a beader sometimes use a ratchet strap round outside on a new tyre to get a good seat. I think tank capacity is more important then CFM for popping tyres on. One of the best addition to any garage mind as handy for blowing out carbs, brakes calipers, trapped water, crap etc plus painting and stuff

And the location "england, North Yorkshire, United Kingdom"

Stick some silicon sealant around them before assembly and stops the rattle but allows the float

The "tubeliss" thing looks interesting - would be interesting to get some real feed back on a trials bike

I for one would like to thanks Sandifords for the superb support at the 2006 and 2008 ssdt in which I rode. I also have had superb mail order service and technical service from Sandifords over the years and wish them all the best in what ever new avenues they turn down. They have been a cornerstone of UK trials for decades

Give him a 4rt and you would think it was Toni Bou

Pre 65 and twin shock Scott with over 40's and over 50s class too - like the sound of that. Might even be in with a chance of a finish.

Well done Rob. Vale of Towy this Sat in Carmarthen if you are up for it - same venue I think as the Project 2000 training day

Hydraulic oil has to run at extreme pressures through pumps and bearings so a 4rt gearbox should not tax it too much. Not sure how the clutch plate would react though. But as the saying goes the choice is yours

His technique and balance is some of the best ever I reckon. Super confident as well. If he sells his front tyres off second hand got to be worth a shout as its never on the ground

Check all obviuos first, plug cap, kill button, loose connection etc but I have had 315 stators go - used to be able to get them rewound for about

I think, but could be wrong, that it was a kick back issue and could be resolved by changing the type of an internal casing bolt so that the head of the bolt acted as a stop and not the casing

"He he - not a bad idea, make it 120Kg and I'll be right back up there" Gaz - maybe we could do like F1 -combined minimum weight of bike and rider. You could stick with the Sherco but Bou would have to ride a road bike with full panniers. Sounds fair to me

Simple formula -more metal = more strength = more reliability (unless the designer is a wally) Suggest we have a minimum weight for trials bikes set at 85KG. This would make bikes more reliable for Joe public and maybe make the sections less exrteme for the top boys as an extra 20kg is harder to throw around

Thanks to Gizza5 and Perce for advice and contact details. Thanks to Munch for conformation of the inevitable and super prompt supply of a new pump which despite my best endeavors to chuck away marks on the first lap allowed me to clinch an over 40 class win at todays at Welsh champ. Many thanks to all James

If comparing to a GasGas then it depends how much weld repair, silicone and gaffer tape have been added to get it as reliable as a 4RT.

Dam - looks like I'll have to try and make it all the way round. Probably be lots of tyre tracks to follow by the time I get anywhere near the end

Perce Thought I'd use a few of the locals/top boys short cuts!!!

Would be nice to save the dosh but need to be 100% confident of the bike being right over the next few weeks. Got Over 40 Welsh Champ on this weekend then a Yorkshire Saturday club trial or something on the 24th Oct - Richmond area. 75 miles, 75 sections - don't want a bike breakdown as well as the physical one I'm likely to have. Might have a play with the dodgy one after these events tho (or might just leave it on the shelf. Don't have many other faulty 4rt bits). Cheers

To keep you up to date - swapped tanks over with mates bike. Mine ran fine mates started missing when warm. Looks like new fuel pump required. Thanks for everyones input.

Thanks - tried that. Tank looked clean when I took it out. Did not remove filter from the end of the pump as looked bonded on but wiped away any contamination from around the outside - didn't look too bad. Also emptied and blew out the metal canister filter on the output side of the pump. Cheers Jimmy

Hi Simon No smoke -plug light grey Haven't tried blink test -looks bit complicated to me. Not sure if fault last long enough/consistent enough for this to show up. Cheer James

Have spent a few hours today replicating the fault (apologies to the neighbors) Takes a good 25 mins tick over- gentle riding round the garden/drive and wrapping everything in towels to build up the heat. Then started trying to cool various items down once it started playing up Hose pipe and air line) Swapped Throttle body back to a standard one but no real success. I'm thinking maybe fuel pump as Gizza5 had. Going to swap whole tank, injector assembly next.

My 05 4rt has just started playing up. Been running fine then last weekend Ok for first couple of laps then on returning back up to the car park struggled to rev out eventually getting worse - sounds bit like running out of fuel or a choke being left on with a carb bike. Stopped bike and started ok then gets worse again - seems ok in section for a while but not when riding back to start. Changed plug, checked every connection, cleaned throttle body etc. Checked tappits and general look round during last the week. Stripped all fuel tank and ancillaries out - Went out yesterday and still doing it. Seems worse when ridding slowly up rock streams for 10 mins then when trying to ride off its worse. Flat out across a bit of moor seems fine especially if I stop the bike with kill button then restart and instantly not as bed. I know Gizza5 had fuel pump issues but wondered if anybody else had similar. Definitely seems heat related - also possibly fiddling with wires coming out of generator seems to induce a miss fire but not 100% convinced. Was wondering if maybe loosing electrical output would cause electrical systems to run slow - fuel pump etc - Thoughts, comments welcome. Going to try a alternative fuel system (tank, injector pump- from a friends bike - when I ask him) which might help eliminate top end items.

I presume you are looking to do this as tubeless are better than tubed - is the difference significant