jimmyl

Try a new plug

Check throttle cable is not too tight and holding throttle open slightly. Presume you adjusted tickover on throttle body air screw and not with cable adjuster on twist grip. Make sure you have throttle closed when starting and not holding open slightly without knowing

Yes having done the maths after posting theres not much delay even at tick over. The air flow is measured in the throttle body and combined with rpm and throttle position the injector just supplies accordingly. Not sure if it pulses or continual jet. Cant see any way the ignition will know what the cam is doing so maybe does spark every stroke.

Not wanting to hijack the thread but my technical intrigue makes me think that the japs would not have fuel pooling in the inlet manifold when on the power stroke.

Dont forget to push kill button afterwards. Never stall engine - always stop with kill button. If it doesn't start first kick snap open throttle and press kill button. If still don't start then try the 3 slow kicks throttle open.

It must know what the cam is doing as wouldn't inject fuel when on power stroke but can't recall any sensors on top end of motor either.

would suggest 1 spark for 2 revolutions as its a single cyl 4 stroke (unless it fires on induction as well as power stroke but wouldn't of thought so).

Clean air filter every ride - have a spare and pre oiled one as bike is a pain to start with a freshly oiled filter. Brake pads out every ride, de glazed and caliper pistons lightly oiled. Oil change every 6 weeks or so (Normal fully synthetic oil in engine and ATF in clutch). Oil filter every other change - oil the gasket and can normally get away with out changing. Grease linkage bearings every 3 to 4 months - more often in winter. Change as required. Have greased head bearings a couple of times as they do seem to need it. Grease rear brake pedal pivot and chanin tensioner arm when doing linkage bearings. Remainder just as and when they wear out. PS make sure you have a case saver on front sprocket oversize bash plate worth having Dont worry obout play in chain tensioner arm cos it will go like that what ever you try.

Not sure I'm allowed to say but see one of the site sponsors web sites - the one who used to be the importer

full set of rings genuine 4rt -

Much respect to the Lampkins for being open, honest and enthusiastic both throughout Saturday (including the presentation) and through Doug and Johns honest comments on the inty web. True Yorkies - take it on the chin and just get on with it.

Seems strange for Alex to DNF for a tyre off the rim. Surely put a tube in and carry on 15mins?. Are the top boys traveling so light and keen on the clock that they risk DNF rather than ensuring they finish. He passed me a few sections befor Grand Canyon and was looking good

Anybody got post code for Section 1 Section 2 Section 3 Section 4 Etc Etc Section 77 Need all the help I can get

Jason Have ridden SSDT a couple of times with slightly harder tyre setting and also last years Scott (didn't quiet make it to the finish) Found minimal drop of in grip but a little more confidence when hitting rocks hard. I think 8ish in front 4.5/5 in back. Dog turd quick to insert, front tube more time consuming. Cheers Jimmy

Any insider info for Sat. What are best sections for people to watch on. Whats best places for helpers to meet riders. Any map references etc Sounds like going will be ok -not too wet. Any info on weather. How does reverse route compare to last year.

Spare stator!!!!! Bike is probably ok - riders are normally the issue. In general would suggest new pads, good chain and sprockets, mid adjustment on snail cams. Good footrest, no ongoing faults. Good front tube and tyre, reasonable rear tyre. Plenty of streams and bogs so make sure of any water proofing I think Johns Lampkins SSDT prep is probably a good starting point for the rest. Good Luck See you for a pint Sat night

Superb but whats he like in the mud - think all WTC sections should have slippy rocks and bogs in them.

Yes - I think You need the compatible sofware to talk to single ot twin map PTB. The maps need to be the correct format but you can convert formats. I think you need to double check conveted files as errors can some times occur. Motivata - e mail web site owner- I found him very helpfull

Unfortunately you need somebody with the original discs or you will have to buy a set from Montesa/Honda. Software is available to down load to compare and convert software from single to dual maps http://members.quicknet.nl/sw.zeinstra/4RT/index.htm Some good info on there as well

Thats a b-gg-r. Everyone knows the Evo is Italian.

Have sections changed much since 2005? If you are into modern/trick riding, world or British champ then the latest super light bikes probably worth it. If you enjoy a traditional trial or a steady club trial do not rule out the old girl. You will spend more time riding and practicing than fixing so should make you a better rider.

Hmmm answer from a Scott- cheapest is best. As a Yorkshire-man I like your thinking. I also believe if you look at ACU regs all UK bikes should run std unleaded

Nothing on a Repsol that can't be bolted on a std bike - somethings are good like Programmable Throttle body but some just cosmetic. Early Repsols where actualy last years bikes with a kit on I believe. Best to get the best 4rt your budget can allow regardless of model and then add what you want/makes a difference in the sections. Obviously build in the costs of the essential mods like PTB to the purchase price of the bike/

It's his "Flock" - at least I think thats what he calls it.

With the Scott fast approaching has anybody got any good tips for minimising blisters on hands etc during Time and Observation trials or similar. Anybody found any good combination of grips, gloves, tape, plasters etc Any trade tricks for hardening the skin - have given up the washing up and fairy liquid already