jimmyl

Another example Take your sports bike buddies out to the car park and set some cones out to ride slalom between. - take your sports bike and try to ride round the cones in first gear and then try it in 2nd. Whats easiest?

As said above you can't compare trials with track/road. Most trials bikes are designed with flat torque curves and run on min throttle for a lot of the time. Lowering gearing has no effect on power curves of the engine but gives the rider a fraction more time to react to his/her throttle inputs. Lower gearing will give more torque at the back wheel but is marginal on a low powered trials bike. Lower gearing also reduces the need to have good clutch control which would be required and utilised to good effect by experts on higher geared bikes.

I'm no good at hopping so would of had a safe dab where Mark gets into difficulty. But he's good enough to stop hop and balance and in reality should have had a five, especially as he was in difficulty but takes a brave observer to give him one. Maybe as addict said earlier fundamentally down to C of C to make sections not need to stop - if the rider does stop then easier to give a five. Trouble is with ability of riders its very hard to take marks off the top lads without killing even the good boys.

B****r - Never spotted the no-stop line and I was quiet early. Line in video was very hard to clean no stop but Dan was very good for his clean.

what model Montesa? You could probably make do with a M5 cap head bolt or similar tapped into swing arm

Having sprogged round on the clubman route thought trial was superb especially in the weather. Stop allowed, no stop alowed there will always be some grey areas or judgment required. So long as consistancy is maintained through out the day we know where we stand. Section 5 had a tight turn before the end - probaly not rideable with out hopping/ flicking and an aoccasional balance - observer told rider he was being strict so we knew where we stood and a big dab was in order for us lesser lights. I think so long as the spirit of no stop is adhered to then a feet up hop or moment pasue is acceptable.

As a matter of interest what was the limit - thats got to be a record quick time. Seems the good nationals are back in favour with good entries again

Any grading list only has an effect if the trial is oversubscribed. Graded riders then have priority. Don't think many BTC rounds had the problem of too many entries. I think St Davids was bang on the figure so all who entered got a ride. Only real problem is if an ungraded rider gets their entry in early they won't know for certain if they have a ride until after the closing date. I think if you read the regs for a lot of the ACU championships that preference is given to current point scorers or last years scorers. I know in the past you can apply to be put on the list if you are planning on doing a round or more. Jake is on Exp A list but only just come out of youth. I guess therefore makes sense!!

Once clubs gradually change to having the same coloured markers (regradless of design) and then start looking at how to introduce arrows then all the ACU clubs will be looking for the same solution. Therefore the potential to bulk buy, have something made bespoke to ACU trials becomes a real options. As the market would be there then the price should come down. We maybe need to think of the slightly longer term benefits rather than how will it effect us tomorrow.

As the Brookside characters would say "calm down, calm down, calm down" I think if I read the amendments correctly the twin shock item is specific to the 2 classes in the Sammy Miller championship And the flag colour is a recommendation not a stipulation and is something that has been requested on here several times.

Give it a good soaking with wd40. Maybe just coroded around the fork top

"Trials is very, very good value for money and long may it continue! " Spot on Pete. Its also good fun, good exercise, pretty laid back and normally allows for a least one good mickey take per event.

Not sure about zog3 but you do need quite a difference to tell unless. Info I had on reading downloaded info which seemed to makes sense when I read it is as below "The handlebar switch doesn't affect the uploading. 1) Uploading to mode 1 if you select mode 1 for fuel and ignition then the selected map is placed in the ECU in memory position 1. 2) Uploading to mode 2 If you select mode 2 for fuel and ignition then the selected map is placed in the ECU in memory position 2. 3) Uploading to mode 1 & mode 2 If you select this option there is no need for a handlebar switch because both memory placed have the same information. The selected mapping is send to meory position 1 and memory position 2. 4) Switching Ignition and fuel if you only select fuel or ignition, only the selected setting wil be uploaded to the selected memory position. Reading mappings from the ECU. This sounds a bit strange, but only the last uploaded mapping can be read back. So if your last upload is to mode 1 then it only possible to read back that mapping from mode 1, If your last upload is to mode 2, only mode 2 can be read back. so every time you change something in the mappings you have to write it down somewhere" I had this from the authour of the web site http://members.quicknet.nl/sw.zeinstra/4RT/index.htm

Having finished 6 SSDTs over the last 20 years or so on Yams, Gasgas and 315 and 4rt Monts have to agree the feel in sections has to be right. Having said that the sections do suit a quicker flowing style so a slightly higher gearing is not always a bad thing so long as its realistic. I always used to put an extra front tooth on the mono yam but then used that gearing all year!! Don't think RPM is limiting factor when on the roads more power, how fast do you want to go, how hard do you want to rev it. Other thing to consider is mpg. Higher gearing will give a slightly longer range. 315 mont with longer gearing but std tank only just got me to all the fuel stops in 06 (with few a 100 yard pushes!!! cos I had no spare fuel on me - honest). What ever you chose don't set it up on May the First. Ride a couple of trials with SSDT set up just to makes sure - including No Plate, speedo, mudguard extensions etc. If you are going to use a haversack or bum bag wear it a few times also -may look a bit of a tosser at your local club trial but better to find out after 2 laps of a club trial than 20 miles out of Fort William on Monday with 80 miles still to go.

running both fuel and ignition maps

thing to play

Didn't regularily use it on big climbs or mud but would imagine with a suitable map would be stonker for that type of going. Trust you enjoy

Not wanting to burst your bubble but had an 05 for several years then changed to a S/H 09 with S3 280 kit fitted.Could not get on with it and even tried several maps but converted back to 250 std with Sains map. Love it again now.

Never stripped a Montesa fully but had head/barrel off and lots of other bits and at least Honda use correct plugs and colour coding so wires will only go back where they came from. It is a lttle congested under head stock area but so long as you remember where everything comes from should be ok. Pictures in manual give good clues on routing etc. Basic mechanic skills, care and attention to detail, some photos and good organistion would normally suffice

06 manual Page 3-5 valve clearance Page 4-36 cam chain setting - reads a little confusing but I think it makes sense when bits are in your hands but if somebody can explain it better than the manual might help you. Page 4-17 special tool to lock cam tensioner Best of luck

Tappit adjustment is in the manual as is cam chain adjustment/setting. You need to make a little tool as per diagram to release tension on the cam chain. There are marks then on cam shaft sprocket when rebuilding. Worth taking off the bash plate and side front frame arms as a matter of course. You will need to support the bike via the back frame cross member or footrests to allow engine to drop slightly lower. Careful when installing cam guides into bottom end of engine as can miss bottom locating lug. Drain rad etc first. All fully documented in engine rebuild section of the manual. If you get stuck I'm sure there are enough people on here to help

Changed 280 back to 250 with engine in frame but very tight and had to tilt engine on its mounts. Comes to bits ok but struggled to get it back together in the frame.

I've had a 2003 315 do similar when riding in streams. The plastic carb top can get distorted allowing moisture in to the slide area. This causes the slide to stick - normally open. When the throttle is tried again after it seems fine. I could tell when mine was sticking as throttle cable felt slack in the twist grip. New plastic top was only a few quid

would like to see the photos 10 secs ealier and 10 sec later

I found that the Mitani 280 map was good with the S3 280 but found for normal use the 250 with a good map is a much better set up unless you are heavy or have lots of big mud climbs etc