jimmyl

If money is really tight see if you can buy a part worn of one of the local top boys. Sponsored riders often run a tyre for a couple of events then put on a new one - probably a few ex SSDT tyres about now. A hardly used Mich.Dunlop is a good choice for a clubman rider. I have run on part worn tyres a lot in my riding career and actually find them better than a brand new tyre.

Steve -not sure if it was you that pushed me back after the last group before fuel stop but if so much appreciated - if not thanks to the rider that did. Apologies if it spoiled your score. I made it back in time (just) but had to be super quick through the few groups after the petrol stop with only a quick glance and then a sprint back to the bike. (I enquired at punch card change if time was still the same and was told it was) The road markings where a bit hit and miss but I think this was more due to the wind turning the markers on the sign posts. I really enjoyed the ride round and thought it was a good trial. With the mixed level of machines and riders it is necessary to have several tricky bits per section rather than one really hard bit but that can add to section length. Punch cards are nice as you know your score - especially with no stop rules - but do take a little longer to process. Thanks to MM

Sorry - meant to say fresh oiled air filter. Think throttle body must be affected by this.

Unofficial technique - as told by Mont supplier and stood me well for 5 years Always stop with kill button. Always start with no throttle - slow steady prod - make sure clutch not dragging - put into neutral if in doubt. If doesn't start fist time flick throttle open and let snap shut and then press kill button - do it a couple of times and then kick normal If it doesn't start then 3 long slow kicks with throttle wide open - slower than when trying to start it. Then try the throttle flick/kill button If the bike has been running this should do it. Agree make sure tick over is high enough and throttle is closing. Also watch out when putting a fresh clean oil filter in - seems to confuse o2 sensor and can be a pig to start. Good luck

Cracking photos - pity you got me sprogging on section 10 -at least I didnt stall on this section like I did last year. Hope its not in next year

cracking instructions 4ourtea

As said before as standard as any of the top bikes = probably more readily available if only a 260 kit fitted and all available over the counter. Probably cost less than a fully fettled gasser/beta/sherco etc as well. I am also led to believe all 4rts finished!!!

Definite improvement 2001 on. 03 or 04 would be best if you can afford it (same mechanically but 04 where white)

Agree take what you have got. Get a small tool box and use it when fettling the bike (this way you know what you have and that it works) and take it with you. Mole grips, junior hack saw also useful. Spare brake levers front and back, clutch lever, front brake, pads, spare chain. Front tube, dog turds, Tyre levers. Keep any usable spare you replace such as grips, tensioner pads, mudguards etc that would do to get you to the finish. Best plan is you have it you won't need it. And yes spare handle bars with a grip fixed to clutch end

Be really interesting to know how standard Grahams' bike was. From what I have read it seemed stock with a few off the shelf bolt on bits. He certainly seemed as competitive as anybody.

Dabster- apologies I forget everybody else was on out of the crate production bikes??

Shame they haven't brought out a new Mont as the current ones are not competitive!! Says who!!! SSDT 2011 G Jarvis 3rd A Gomez best newcomer A Bilbao best over 40 Go Mont PS somebodies

Presume you are going across pipe from the side. Suggest double blip technique, ride front wheel into the pipe about half way up then drive back wheel in as front rebounds off. This will clear help the sump plate clear the pipe. When back wheel contacts pipe drive bike over keeping front wheel light so you don't sump out and the back wheel is getting traction. Watch a few clips of good riders doing something similar

I Change after every ride - have a couple of spare filters as said above. Always start with a fresh one cos it costs nowt to do it this way and may guarantees carburation and performance is as you want it. Also clean brakes out after evry ride.

Having seen several past world contenders ride this years SSDT (main and Pre 65) and also seen the competitive nature of the O40's/O50's at some of this years nationals was wondering if a past masters WC would have any support. Golf/Tennis etc have such a series

Mari Not your problem I think something on PC thinks trials sites are virus and wants to restart. Work PC has results but wont allow twitter/face book. Home PC allows face book/twitter but chucks out the results pages. Despite above have really enjoyed twist and turns of this years 100th SSDT. Congrats to all as it sound cracking and even the weather has come to the party. Tempting me to ride my 8th in 2012

Computer won't allow me to see SSDT results pages Whats the scores on the doors

I ride regular and stick with std Mont footrests and hangers. I weld a little fillet into the hangers to stop them bending in too easily (especially on 4rt). I regularily add a blob of weld on footrest to keep them at about 15 degrees above horizontal makes a big difference. Mont suspension is spot on. Don't mess. If you can't hop the back end as std then your ability probably dictates that you would better off concentrating on benefiting from the supple suspension and grip available as std (at least in UK). I believe hopping the back in the drive or car park has no resemblance of what you need in the section. Dropping forks does help though. Save your money and have some coaching or spend it on practicing.

Have you a serial port RS232 on the new computer? Mine did not have one so had to buy USB to RS232 converter. With USB plugged in I search down devices being used in control panel to see what port it is in. Then on PTB software you can select what port you want to used. Select port highlighted above. If that makes sense

I believe that a Trials World Championship is the cheapest world championship title by miles for Honda to achieve. Cheap beer for their marketing budget.

Good luck and enjoy it - hope all the comments on TC have helped a little bit. Don't know about others but every SSDT feels a little bit like your first as you are never quiet sure what the week will bring. I think anybody who has finished a few is more than willing to help so never be afraid to ask as it is a little bit special. PS Don't be too busy to miss out on the scenery

Unfortunately trials is no more than a potential marketing exercise for the Japs. There is very little manufacturing or economic sense in making a few hundred trials bikes. Honda are dominating the trials world in their eyes with Mr Bou so why change philosophy. If they are not dominating and want to they will just buy the best rider and make their bike work. If you have any doubts about when Honda get serious look at the money spent on the old oval piston 4 stroke GP bike before they went 2 stroke with Freddie Spencer or the fact they developed and built a new F1 engine within a 6 week time scale - if that does not impress you then you have no idea about manufacturing. Only in the face of ultimate defeat or embarrassment will they consider a 2t. (being beat in trials I don't thing equates to this) Trials is so unimportant they will walk away with numerous world titles than change company philosophy. Remember the 80's with RTLs rule the world then depart!

A change in mapping can make a big difference to the way the bike feels and responds to the throttle. It can alter the way the power comes in and how the bike revs out. It can't generate lots more power like a 280 or 300 conversion can but will make a noticeable difference from a soft beginners map to a harsh expert/dry weather map. Difficulty I find is having time and finding a suitable section to try them on back to back. Especially if trying similar maps. I have switchable PTB and have a played with a few maps. I had a 05 with Sains map which I liked and never changed, My current 09 came with "mild and wild" and a 280 kit and hated the maps (mild too flat and wild was very sharp but felt to drop off higher revs compared to Sains and on double blip step I missed the second stage of throttle response). Changed to my Sains map and a Mitani 280 map which felt a little similar and bike felt much better and similar to what I was used to. However changed back to a 250 as 280 seemed to be dragging me around. I stick with Sains map as main map and have tried several maps in the second map. Have tried 250 mitani which is very similar, tried a Scott map from Sandifords which felt a bit like Sains at lower end but flatter at higher revs and I think more efficient. Currently have OTAR5 off http://members.quicknet.nl/sw.zeinstra/4RT/index.htm Which feels again similar to Sains but flatter and softer. However I find it a little lacking having got so used to Sains map that I tend not to use it. I think if you switch to a map then it is better to get used to it and not use 2 maps in a trial unless maybe you run a soft map as standard and then have a more powerful/aggressive map just for when you need it. The web site mentioned above has several maps and software downloads which can compare maps. Anybody else's comments to maps they like would be interesting. I am currently looking at a suitable map for friends bike as he is finding a sains map a little too much for his style of riding -looking for smooth map with minimal engine braking as he is a little harsh on and off the throttle.

had 05 and now 09 - i think 06 had better clutch plates amd master cyl which I fitted to my 05. I think 06 to 08 then minor tweaks on cam but nothing major -could be wrong. 09 change of exhaust, steering angle and fat bars. Definately better. Not sure if 10 and 11 any different.

I think he is quiet good between the flags as well - could be wrong though!!!!!