jimmyl

Used to use Neatsfoot oil (don't tell the missus as she wondered why it never lasted long) but had a few boots where stitching seemed to fail. Not sure if coincidence but gone back to dubbin just in case.

Man up and accept wet feet -better than a trip over the bars rather than walking through that nasty water to see where the rocks and holes are. Last few years bought big pots of Dubbing over intyweb from saddlery shops. Much better value than little pots from shoe shops

Chewy - top product. Wish I had seen this earlier. Had some early control foot pegs on a mid 90s Gas Gas many years ago. My take on footrest and why I dont like raptors, alloy pegs etc is that you need to be able to maintain your footrests and the angle of droop to frame. Idealy footrests need to be angled above horizontal when viewed from front or back of the bike. Otherwise when the bike leans over its very easy for your pegs to be slopping down and basically encouraging your feet to slide off. Yes you can make the points sharp to dig into your boots but much easier to work with gravity. Recently fitted S3/Hebo style footrest and these are nice but need even these needed welding after 3 to 4 events to make sure they are not drooping. As I see no point spending lots of dosh if you aint going to maintainn then correctly

Possibly moisture in your brake fluid. Cold weather maybe causing it to ice up in cylinder/hoses etc. I always deglaze my pads before every event as part of normal servicing. Hope you sort it

Possible 2 option off the top of my head 1) tickover too low 2) Fuel pump on way out -hope its tickover. What year bike is it?

And me - spokes will effect rim but not throw on sprocket - unless rim is so far out it is touching swing arm!!!. Make sure when putting sprocket on you put all bolts in before tightening and then tighten as you would a car wheel. I always put sprocket on and then turn it back and forth a few times on the hub to makes sure it has a good seat.

And me - spokes will effect rim but not throw on sprocket - unless rim is so far out it is touching swing arm!!!. Make sure when putting sprocket on you put all bolts in before tightening and then tighten as you would a car wheel. I always put sprocket on and then turn it back and forth a few times on the hub to makes sure it has a good seat.

Glad to be of service - bet your neighbours where happy. If it was the air filter oil you could of left it overnight and it would of started first kick but you needed to know last night. Thats why I never put a freshly oiled air filter in and then try and start it. Cos I know Ive got 15 mins of kicking to get it to go. I either oil filter and leave in the open to dry while I fettle rest of bike or put the filter in and leave until the following day at the trial to start. Don't know why it does this but it does

If its happening every rotation of the rear wheel then probaly not chain or front sprocket as these would not be in sync with wheel turning. Check sprocket is central on hub else as said above incorrectly made sprocket assuming your wheel is running true.

If it sounded like it wanted to start then work carried out sounds ok. Have you tried bumping it - throttle closed. When air filter has been over oiled especially with spay air filter oil can be a pig to start. I have found when this happens got to kick it like a 2 stroke and just persevere with a few quick kick, a few slow throttle open - a few throttle flicks- and repeat. Can take 10 mins hard work and even a bump start! Otherwise make sure bank angle sensor not stuck on, especially if bike has been on its side for a while. Stand bike up and give it a good shake let to right. Good luck

Anybody slagging off an out of touch ACU really do not know what has gone on or what was at stake. I think the current ACU commitee are as aproachable and as open as any I know. If you are sat here making wild accusations then you probably have made no effort to go to your local club or centre meetings. (or even suggested a possible good suggestion). At S3/Normandale/Sammy miller etc no stop has appeared to of been no disadvantage. BTC I know of sections that I have plotted intending to be ridden in a flowing manor only to find the top boys have the ability to break the section in to smaller parts and negate the natural hazard. The natural reaction is then to put the bigger, more extreme, more dangerous stuff in. We then try and make the riders rush these hazards to mimic no stop by applying a time limit with other associated risks -ie James Dabils crash at Mitchell in 2010. Not sure what the answer is but doing nothing will not make things any better. If the top boys think things wher perfect it appears this message was not communicated to the ACU or the factory/importers they are riding for. Maybe we should run a stop allowed series for private private entrants on std bikes (James,Alex, Michael, Jonathon, Jacks etc welcome) and a series sponsored by the importers in which they determine the rules. See what you get then!!!!!

Nice to have the Devon double header back on with West of England and Otter vale. Almost a local trial for me from Wales!!!!

Spliting up Boootle/Lancs seems strange. Did hear Westmoorland where going to tie in to Lancs weekend but this must be non champ or gone by the way side. Long way to go twice

Somebodies got a bargain - not!!!!!

My understanding is that it was the importers who pushed for this change. The ACU reacted to what was being requested having canvaseed opinions from the relevent riders as well.

I believe the importers have had advocated a move like this for a while. You would assume they would not do anything that would alienate them from the manufacture they represent!!. Therefore do we assume that the factories want this any maybe the brave desicion by the Brits and the ACU may be the catalyst for change for the rest and WTC.

Not sure a device on front wheel would work as you could be riding with the front wheel in the air with the front brake applied and be given a five

Every club can chose as can any centre so a vote is already available. In fact every event can be either no stop or stop depending how each club want to organise it.Get along to your club or centre metings and ask for what you want!

All the talk of observer difficulty about stop/no stop completely ignores the fact that 99.9% of stop allowed trials allows bikes to go back without been given a five. Watch footage from this years BTC to see how far this has been allowed. When was a top rider fived for going backwards -I thinks thats the rule anyway. Anybody arguing that it will make observers life harder need to see what is being got away with now. If same flexibity and common sense continues then no more or less arguments will prevail but sections and trials will be more flowing and hopefully more enjoyable.

From previuos 4rt post "downhill grip" I am 13 stone and this was settings on the bike from Sandifords and feels spot on rear 6 clicks out - spring quiet soft Front N/S fork full down on blue allen socket then 6.5 turns out O/S fork 10 clicks out. Set up my mates with this and he feels its much better

Tapped out easy but when bolted up no radial play.

I posted my 4rt setting a while ago. Have a look or I when I get chance will have a look and copy. Suspension is basically same on 4rt/315 although bike weight and bias may be different but proabaly a good starting point

As posted elsewhere if you want to save money in the long run buy a spare wheel and or compresor. Have a good tyre for hard events, a part worn for less important, drier trials and an duffer for the trials that it don't matter or practice. This way you can have what you want when you want it.

No critism on any party but I personally don't like having an alternative route marked in the middle of another route. I always try and have riders all going through the same gates or on a completly diferent set of gates but this does take time and effort and even a compromise on the section to do this. Only mark out trial a year and spend a few months doing! I guess this is just one of the many problems of multi routes. PS is the imaginary line between flags still in ACU handbook or has it also gone by the wayside

I had wear in the plain end of the push in bush bolts or wear in the bush id. Tapped them out M10 (I think) and then used cap heads to bolt the sprocket staight into the bush. The circlp stops it coming off so no risk. Fitted alloy sprocket as well. Best of luck