jimmyl

I think best spec ATF you can get . Choose one for the latest spec car. Don't go over board on price especially if using as a flush. I bought 50 lt several years ago for Merc E200 and been using ever since. Chrome pipe definately on 2001 but may of been a year or 2 earlier. Is it red mudguards,. inboard rear brake, 4 pot front caliper If so think clutch plates probably latest spec. Tried a good quality 2 stroke gear box oil once -replaced it and chucked the rest away after 1 trial - it can have that big an effect

Having run monts for the last 15 years would suggest the oil is the most important if clutch is correctly functioining. Never run the Elf apart from in a brand new 315r 2001. Everything else including this one when oil was due for a change has been run on ATF which works exceptionally well and is very good value. Would suggest you try ATF oil first, maybe even change oil twice to flush whatever is in there. If no improvement then investigate the plate options above. Other thing to check is master cylinder seal and slave cylinder seal to makes sure both are functioning correctly. I have had a pin hole in a master cyl sleeve which casued pressure to drop slowly with the lever pulled in. Also makes sure the adjustment on the lever is adjusted correctly. Best of luck

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No change there then

It happens with stop alllowed now then so it's not necessarily the rules but those enforcing fair play that needs to change - hence force the term "spanish dab" from before.. When patriotic officials are used we are probably stuffed especially as a country the UK looks to encourage fair play and it appears other countries look to explot self interest. Look at quotas and farm subsidies etc .

Don't see no difference to stop allowed rules - did he go back or not? Probably did but can't be sure so lets give benefit of the doubt. Riders have been going back without penalty at all levels for last few years so lets just wait for common sense to return and accept we will rely on personal judgment. Billion pound football can't decide if a ball has crossed a line yet so stop/no stop/backwarsd/forwards on a motorbike in the mud in the woods in the back of beyond may be along way down the boffins list. A large percentage of what we all enjoy by riding trials bikes does not change ie chucking a bike up things to the best of our ability and having a good crack with the other riders. SSDT/Scott/S3/Normadale/Sammy Miller's still seems popular for the average Joe rider

2 M6 button heads screws and 2 repair washers work better than std bolts. Go stainlesss if you want to be posh. I find std bolts round very easy when taking them on and off all the time. I have always found genuine Montesa parts in the UK to competive against aftermarket options. OEM galfer brake pads can be cheaper than aftermarket galfers. Not sure on disc covers but thats what ebay is for.

I'm sure there is a drawing with this in the manual- sure there is PDF version on line somewhere

MSM spot and know waht a 4rt is. They also cover you for riding on the road in an event. With all the MSA fuss worth making sure you are covered correctly. Lots of road policies exclude use in a competition. Also worth checking small print with reference to theft as some have non trials friendly clauses like must use steering locks etc

no point having a factory bike unless you are a factory rider. Best to decide what you want a bike to do for the level you are riding and then set the bike up to suit you

Put mine back to standard after buying it with the 280 kit on hated it compared to std 250. Found was always trying to keep up with the bike. Maybe a soft map would of helped but like the rideability of the 250. Just put original piston and barrel back on.

Footrests are a bit of a week spot. Genuine hangers are cheap and a bit of extra bracing when new helps. Check genuine Montesa/Honda bits first as you may be suprised at prices. Honda packaged brake pads are as cheap as Galfers and the "Honda light weight trials chain" is one of the best value products about. Best of luck

Try ATF oil change first before spending to much money, Had several 315s and never changed clutch plates so unless bike has been very well used an oil change may do the trick. ATF oil is as close to the elf as you can get without spending a fortune. As for rest of bike just look after it well - good ATF changed every 8 to 10 trials. Clean air filter every ride and clean carb every 6 trials should see things go well. Linkage greased every 6 months. Brakes stripped and cleaned every outing. One of the best quality bikes ever made

repsols use a red mudguard so no problem. Munch at M Sport may do you alternative stickers and I know with 315 mont you can buy genuine stickers for not silly money. Try Pidcocks or JIm Sandifords

late 315 clutch master cyl is good mod on early 4rts. Jim sandifords or Pidcocks probabbly still supply them and not silly money new if I recall.

Probably 80% to 90% of trials riding technique is the same no stop or stop allowed. 80% or 90% of recent trials discusion is about this 10% or 20% diffrence. Suggest we should all focus on the things that we enjoy and just ride to what ever rules are in front of us. For the majority of us it probaly makes no difference so long as we have adjusted our mind set to the rules in force.

Does this happen straight away or only after the bike has been running for a while? After bike starts to exhibt the problem does it get worse and worse as you keep riding? Does the bike then start and run fine for a short while prior to the problem returning? If yes to above then could well be the fuel sock. Had this condition occur on a couple of 4rts and initially change complete fuel pump assy which cured the problem. Second time I perservered with swapping and cleaning things and after a very thorough cleaning of the sock filter cured the problem. I found significant amounts of degreaser/carb cleaner and an air line did the job. PS If it's not the sock and is the throttle body would suggest holding out for a PTB as makes the bike so much more tune-able

Normandales previously start at over 40's on modern bikes and have several rounds on the road. S3 are also heavily road biased unless the MSA thing puts a stop to it. The Expert class in the British Champ is probably the only one that meets your criteria as all will be off road and cater for any adult on a modern bike.

I would go for best you can afford = top race or MX spec. Engine only holds .5lt so if you spend £10 on 1 lt of oil will give you 2 changes. If you are really keen and change it every 5 weeks its a £1 a week.

Good quality 4 stroke engine oil for the up and down bits and as above ATF or the Elf oil for the whirry round bits. Careful not to overfill the engine oil as evidently can force crank seals out. I normallly change oil filter every other oil change and change oil 6 to 8 week intervals depending on type of trials ridden. Best of luck

stick out for one with a PTB as gives you so many more options on set up and feel.

Minor changes 05 to 08 but I think 09 was a more significant change with yokes, exhaust and I think steering angle or longer shock. A good condition 05 with suitable mods is probably on a par with a later bike.

Not sure of the ready to trial weight of the Mont but you can be sure it will be the same weight at the end unlike some of its less well built competotors that shed bits of useful metal as the days go on

I found the pins had become a loose fit in the rubber bushes. I tapped out the bush inside to M8 or M10 and then screwed bolts through the sprocket into the bush. No play and still have bushes and cost nowt to do.

You need some green, white, yellow flags, some tape and a few make shift branches on the ground as well to make it really realistic. Happy practising