jimmyl

have a look back on the Montesa forum -lots posted in the past

Get a strap that is advertised for tennis elbow, Goes around forearm just below elbow. Does not look like it should work but does. Been through this a couple of times. Unfortunately I have found this happens when I am riding good - ie more pressure on the arms and less on the soles of the feet dabbing. No pain no gain I guess?

Wrong - much easier to lay out no stop - at least at British champ level - I know cos I did it!!!!!

Personally having run X11, X lights and IRC rears in the last couple of years found the X light to be the best all round and found no advantage with an IRC even in the mud. Rather than buying budget tyres to save dosh would strongly suggest either a compressor or spare wheel to enable some good tyre management. Will save you wasting good tyres when practicing or even during the summer when a good edge is not required. Idea for World trials - 4 rear tyres for the season

Is this in the manual - never played with this. I believed one leg was compression and one was rebound.

From previous 4rt post "downhill grip" I am 13 stone and this was settings on the bike from Sandifords and feels spot on rear 6 clicks out - spring quiet soft Front N/S fork full down on blue allen socket then 6.5 turns out O/S fork 10 clicks out. Set up my mates with this and he feels it's much better

Sounds like you need to practice compressing the suspension and or double blip technique. Compress suspension just before you want to raIse the front wheel. As the suspension rebounds go with the upward travel with both throttle/clutch engagement and body movement to assist the lift.

Jarvis and Sagar both did well in that small trial up in Scotland in the last few years - maybe you missed it

I don't understand your comments on un-competitive. Riders on 4rts have and still are winning awards in a wide variety of events. A tweaked new model should only help carry this on.

And your point is? As the guy on blind date used to say - the choice is yours A new bike every 6 months that revs its self to infinity and allows the kids to pogo back up their own wheel tracks. As above but slightly better built A bike that will do 99% of what us mere mortals want from a bike and one you wash and put away knowing next time you want a ride it will be exactly the same as before.. If you don't want one don't buy one, if you do want one then you now have a price differential based upon components not stickers and slightly more up to date than the previous offering. From a personal point of view I'm glad they haven't just followed fashion and changed things as it makes the older models still valuable.

Hope they have got better than the support I had with a brand new GasGas with dodgy gearbox. I thought Pidcocks stepped into the breach very well after the demise of Sandifords. Not sure about the new lot. Would be a shame to finally have a new model let down by poor dealership but lets wait and see.

Don't forget 9th place by a part time trials rider on an old Mont. say no more -well done Tom and go Montesa ( as they always do)

What about when you are sliding down a hill with both wheels locked - not a five!!!

Also compulsory at BTC this year

How would this work

I think a philospohy to follow is A - fundamentally the sections are there to take the marks - not over zelaous observing B- unless you are 100% sure the riders has stopped then give benefit of the doubt. C- observe and ride in the spirit of the rules - ie if riders dont take the mickey and try a flowing ride take any momentary pause in the spirit of the rules.If the riders stop and hops then a more black and white approach is more justified. But fundamentally be consistant. And before those start saying rules are rules and any split second stop should be a five just read the old rules and see how much leaway was given to going backwards, hopping side ways when stationary etc.. Main key to anything is point A above = have sections to take marks that suit the rules in place. In response to original question - video 1 looks fine, Video 2 looks marginal

We can't agree on stop or no stop so even coming close on agreeing on politics has no chance

I run 10 /41 all the time and done 1 SSDT on a 4rt. Superb on the roads and having a little oily pump thing instead of 2 stoke mix you in safe hands protection wise. Probably also most fuel efficient trials bike -especially as a 250.

Position looks ok but also looks like a std bash plate. A mitani or similar will not distort as much and hence not compress rubbers so much. I have in the past siliconed mine in place especially if you straighten out a used bash plate.

Hi - welcome to the gang. Try and ride bike using a traditional use of the throttle more than clutch. They don't like the 2 stroke trick of revving the engine and dipping the clutch. Keep you weight on the back and just let it grip and it will. Keep oil levels good and clean. Clean air filter every ride - apart from that they are bullet proof. If it has a programmable throttle body check you have a suitable map for your ability and terrain. Enjoy

Don't think it really worked - just meant it wasn't a five or clean desicion. In reality most observers allowed a pause without giving the 1 mark penalty

The video looks like it aims to shows how modern stop technigues can still be used wih some amendment for no stop. It does not show the other 99% of the section which can be probably be ridden better clean no stop without messing about. If somebody had done the same video a few years ago showing how you could no longer go backwards or side ways when stopped but just balance or maintain forward motion ( which I think are rules up to now) then there would of been much argument about how can you tell if the rider has just stopped and balanced or gone backwards.

I think best spec ATF you can get . Choose one for the latest spec car. Don't go over board on price especially if using as a flush. I bought 50 lt several years ago for Merc E200 and been using ever since. Chrome pipe definately on 2001 but may of been a year or 2 earlier. Is it red mudguards,. inboard rear brake, 4 pot front caliper If so think clutch plates probably latest spec. Tried a good quality 2 stroke gear box oil once -replaced it and chucked the rest away after 1 trial - it can have that big an effect

Having run monts for the last 15 years would suggest the oil is the most important if clutch is correctly functioining. Never run the Elf apart from in a brand new 315r 2001. Everything else including this one when oil was due for a change has been run on ATF which works exceptionally well and is very good value. Would suggest you try ATF oil first, maybe even change oil twice to flush whatever is in there. If no improvement then investigate the plate options above. Other thing to check is master cylinder seal and slave cylinder seal to makes sure both are functioning correctly. I have had a pin hole in a master cyl sleeve which casued pressure to drop slowly with the lever pulled in. Also makes sure the adjustment on the lever is adjusted correctly. Best of luck

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