jimmyl

Any reason for wanting a ally side stand -I think the Mitani ones are nice but recall a lot of money. STD stands work ok at a fraction of the cost and leave enough change for a years riding!

I've used a push bike inner tube as a tyre beader. Used 16" but is a bit tight. 17" or 18" may be better. Still needed a compresssor though Normally get a Mich to go the rim jsut with compressor but IRC has proved a little more challenging.

Just got back from Rugby after re-sitting my National C of C license. Was up at 5.30am, traveled over 400 miles and got back gone 7pm. Didn't see any youngsters there so need to worry about getting there early to get past past the zimmer frames -didn't see any smart arses either!!!!. Did see lots of committed volunteers tho. Very easy to sit on a computer putting the world to right but a lot more difficult to make the time to get liscensed and commit to putting a BTC on. Will happily retire from BTC C Of C when all the youngsters get off their a*** and tell me to have a rest cos they are going to do it.!!!!

"I just watch these guys literally bounce around from front to back wheel hops or both wheels at the same time, and I know my bike isn't capable of that." Bike is probaly capable !!!!I've seen Grahamm Jarvis jump on a B40 Pre 65 and do more tricks than I could do on a modern lightweight trials bike. Best suspension for a clubman rider is soft and compliant to maximise grip. Not hard and springy to make you look good in the car park. If suspension is working then should be nice and smooth but have good damping (if its springy and topping out or leaking oil then time for a service). Any play in bushes or bearing will be evident if you put the bike on a stand and lift each wheel. Minimum play should be felt before suspension starts to be compressed. Any sidways movement is also bad but robably wheel bearings, steering head bearings or swing arm bearings.

I am jusyt doing it - 2/3rds of the way through after a few hours in garage tonight. Just need my friendly fabricator to weld it all back together and then a sand and a paint and on to the bike. Need to modify fuel pump bracket but that seems straight forward. If this was a job I was having done for work would expect to pay

Don't mean to be funny but a clue in the name - Auto Cycle Union which means every member has a say in what goes on. Every club member has a say, every club has a say, every centre has a say so not sure who needs to stand down - all of us. I think what you are saying is why don't the young, new, enthusistic ACU members please stand up. The ACU officials you are talking about are formed from volunters giving up their time and money to put on and run trials. Probably the MX guys you refer to are profesional promoters in it to make a living. Triple the entry fees and we could all do something different but might not have so many riders

Many years ago had a problem with the HT coil not going to earth on a 200 where it bolts to the frame. Make sure frame is clean of paint and bolts are tight. Left mine loose once after painting frame and bike stopped every time was pointed up a hill when the HT coil slid back on the slotted holes in the bracket and isolated coil from frame. Doooh!

We run 6 training days a year at several venues with approved coaches, insurance, permit, bike hire etc. Entry is

Still sounds like fuel pump. Only plays up when hot. - about 30mins. Will then just not rev out at higher rpm. Bit like a dirty carb/blocked main jet. Park bike up and let cool and is fine again until warms up. Will keep running but poor at top end. I am not aware of anybody being able to clean/repair the pumps. You can clean filter etc but made no difference to mine. See if you can swap a tank assembly with somebody - only a 5 min swap. Would try this first then a maybe swap throttle bodies. Second hand Non PTB are quiet common and cheaper than a fuel pump. If anybody has had any joy getting fuel pumps repaired would be intetsted as got my faulty one still lying under the bench. Only aware of early 05/06 bikes having pump problems unless anybody knows different. Best of luck

was fancying a ride as never ridden it but day after Sheffield has kind of scuppered that. Hope things fill up and keep the faith and hopefully see you in 2013.

No major changes though the years but every year a little better. 05's benefit from clutch plate and clutch master cyl from later bikes or after market. 09 on handle differently - not sure if steering geometry change through frame mod or longer rear shock but definately seem better. 09 on have different exhaust. Fat bars also but these may of appeared on 08s as well Early repsols where the previous years bike with add ons. Not sure about current bikes. Any bike can be upgraded and PTB is a worthwhile addition with a map to suit your style and abilty. Early fuel pumps and kickstart stop failures are the only major faults I am aware of. I'm sure Munch and other can maybe confirm above and add other changes. Still a competitive and very reliable bike especially on more traditional type of going. Hope you find a good one and enjoy

I have a spare 4rt tank that I am looking to convert to flat tank design. I have seen step by step photos of a complete flat tank fabrication on a 4rt web site and also the necessary fuel pump bracket mod. Was wondering if anybody is doing a reasonable priced conversion in the UK. If not are there any 4rt owners interested in having their tanks converted if I could source a local fabrication shop to carry out a cut and shut job.

I still fail to understand the rants - clubs can do what they like. Apart from 6 BTC rounds nothing has changed other than clubs and centres are starting to make their own decisions I presume based on what they belive suit there membership the best. In reality there is absolutely nothing wrong with the same club running "stop allowed" and "no stop" championships if they thought the membership would suport fully both series.

Well said John and Andy. For those that feel the ACU are underhand search through John's past comments. He always says it as it is and why it has been done and will always take your views on board. May not do what you want but will take your views on board and explain why things have gone the way thay have. I think this is very refreshing for an organising body. PS I also know the hours and miles John does so we can all go and play safely in the mud on a weekend.

Think I have Jitsie - came with bike and along with a few spare filters. Similar money to a std filter. Worth having 2 then you always have a clean one. Swap after every trial

I think thats what you alreday have. As woody said every club can do what it wants. If a club feels it can better please its members or get better entries by running one set of rules or the other then it is free to do so. Event by event if it wants. As Pete Scorpa3 says - get off your behind and get to club. TC is good but it aint a democratic process. Go to your club AGM or Centre meeting and vote - as Alexandra says - simples!!!

Aftermarket filters don't need flame trap if you are looking to change. Much easier!

Used to use Neatsfoot oil (don't tell the missus as she wondered why it never lasted long) but had a few boots where stitching seemed to fail. Not sure if coincidence but gone back to dubbin just in case.

Man up and accept wet feet -better than a trip over the bars rather than walking through that nasty water to see where the rocks and holes are. Last few years bought big pots of Dubbing over intyweb from saddlery shops. Much better value than little pots from shoe shops

Chewy - top product. Wish I had seen this earlier. Had some early control foot pegs on a mid 90s Gas Gas many years ago. My take on footrest and why I dont like raptors, alloy pegs etc is that you need to be able to maintain your footrests and the angle of droop to frame. Idealy footrests need to be angled above horizontal when viewed from front or back of the bike. Otherwise when the bike leans over its very easy for your pegs to be slopping down and basically encouraging your feet to slide off. Yes you can make the points sharp to dig into your boots but much easier to work with gravity. Recently fitted S3/Hebo style footrest and these are nice but need even these needed welding after 3 to 4 events to make sure they are not drooping. As I see no point spending lots of dosh if you aint going to maintainn then correctly

Possibly moisture in your brake fluid. Cold weather maybe causing it to ice up in cylinder/hoses etc. I always deglaze my pads before every event as part of normal servicing. Hope you sort it

Possible 2 option off the top of my head 1) tickover too low 2) Fuel pump on way out -hope its tickover. What year bike is it?

And me - spokes will effect rim but not throw on sprocket - unless rim is so far out it is touching swing arm!!!. Make sure when putting sprocket on you put all bolts in before tightening and then tighten as you would a car wheel. I always put sprocket on and then turn it back and forth a few times on the hub to makes sure it has a good seat.

And me - spokes will effect rim but not throw on sprocket - unless rim is so far out it is touching swing arm!!!. Make sure when putting sprocket on you put all bolts in before tightening and then tighten as you would a car wheel. I always put sprocket on and then turn it back and forth a few times on the hub to makes sure it has a good seat.