RonH

That looks fantastic! I wasn’t expecting to see it in such great shape after only seeing the photos of the ignition. Well done. I like the Mini Cooper too! I’d love to see more pictures of that also but that’s probably not allowed on a trials motorcycle website though. Maybe if you put the bike in the boot of your Mini (I understand there’s lots of room inside those little cars) you could bypass the rules. 😉 Cheers!

I agree 100% and do have personal protection. Besides my boots I have a full CE 2 rated kit for my torso, shoulders, elbows and knees. I only have one riding buddy at the moment but he rides a Japanese enduro bike so most of the tools required are different. We each carry our own but we do share universal tools and gear when needed. Thanks for the input! I appreciate it.

Thanks for all that and I agree wholeheartedly so I think the best I can do is to put another entire bike in my backpack and then a third one across the front forks. Just in case... 😉 Nah, I’m just looking for the most common failures. I guess I should’ve mentioned that before. I’m in the process of getting some extra levers. Thanks much!

Just added superglue to my kit. Great suggestion! I also added some bacon strips (my palate doesn’t fancy “turds”) as mentioned. Yum!

Thank you Faussy! Good to know! Exactly what I was hoping to hear!

I very rarely ride sections where my car is parked 20 yards away but more trail riding where my car is miles away and I’m just wondering what others, who ride similarly, take along with them. The things I take are carried in a backpack and include basic tools (sockets, Torx sockets, screw bits, pliers, spark p. wrench), spark plug, first aid, phone, tire pencil gauge, extra air filter, tire sealant, extra fuel, small flashlight, silicone tape, wire, zip ties, 2 chain quick links, and water. I don’t carry tire irons because I’ve had very good luck with sealants. I’m also not interested in clothing because that changes with the seasons but I’m wondering if I’m missing anything else important that I haven’t thought of. What’s something you needed but didn’t have? I should also note that the tools I take are the ones I do my maintenance with hoping to have what I need. Thanks!

Watch the first video in this article. Sammy Miller takes the flywheel off himself. He just uses a strap holder and a wrench. No puller. He also briefly mentions how to adjust the ignition. Hopefully you can see what he does. Good luck! https://sammymiller.co.uk/sammy-miller-mbe-unveils-newly-restored-miller/

Scorpaian: People have been trying to help you and you argue and throw their help back in their faces. They’ve been generous with their time and effort. You should say thank you instead of getting p****d off. You’re the problem on this forum not the others. Lemur, Konrad and others have been very helpful to me in the past and have been gentlemen about it too.

I know that the 2023 model 300 is .3mm. I would assume it’d be the same then in 2020. Hope this helps.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266901977841

This is just an FYI: The new generation started in 2023, not ‘24 so the ‘23, ‘24 and ‘25 models are exactly the same. If you’re looking to save some money you can get a ‘23 model for less. I do, however, own a ‘23 TXT 250 and love the bike but can’t help with comparison of others. There are quite a few videos on YouTube reviewing the new generation and some that compare them to other marques. Good luck!

Another cause may be that the compression is very high. I had the same problem with my 2023 Gasgas TXT. It seemed that it’d take a rhino’s kick to start it. I’m a small guy and it was a total workout for me. I lowered the compression with a 1mm head spacer and it’s very easy to kick now. S3 makes low compression head inserts for Betas that maybe you can consider.

I gotta say that I love your posts and seeing “rotten” turned to “gold”. Can’t wait to see the end of this show! Thank you!

That bike is absolutely beautiful! Nicely done.

I’m riding sometimes trial and other times dual sport, possibly similar to what you have in mind. I have a pair of Gaerne Balance Pro Tech and love them. There’s no break-in period at all and they’re extremely comfortable. Also, very easy to walk in like they’re a sneaker. I like the soles the most because they are very grippy and just enough stiffness (stiffer than a sneaker) for support yet allow me to walk and move my ankles around. There’s no heal either so you can move your feet on pegs anywhere you want. They have another version of the same boot called Balance Oiled that are more expensive because they have a waterproof liner inside. They’re marketed as both trial boots and adventure boots.

Found this photo of Surflex clutch plates to fit your bike and they look nothing like what you have. My guess is that someone put in a pack for another bike that was “close enough” at least for a while.

Sorry but no. He did that in 1975 for me. The bike is long gone.

Search Ebay “gasgas txt workshop manual” and you’ll see several to choose from. Most cost $35.

I have a similar problem with my right arm also. I was severely injured when I was 12 years old and I loved riding my bike. After the injury I couldn’t reach far enough to hold the bar with my right hand so my dad put an extra piece of bar (6” or 7” long) on a hinge near the end of the original bar. The shorter added on piece extended it closer to my body. It was able to swing about 180°. Then he mounted a grip and rear brake onto the extension. When I turned to the right the extension swung outward and the opposite happened when turning left. I had very good control with both hands on the bars. It worked for me. Since then I’ve had some surgeries to give me more freedom of movement and I don’t need one now but I’m not doing splats or anything like that just mainly trail riding and having fun. Best of luck to you!

Has anyone printed a kickstand foot extender for Gasgas trials bikes? There are options for every other motorcycle in the world but not for Gasgas trials bikes. At least I can’t find one.

Ditto! Broken ribs are the worst. Glad you got a vest.

I have a Leatt 5.5 that covers my ribs very well (broke 3 last year in crash). It’s protection is very good at the ribs and I don’t notice it on while riding but others have complained it’s too hot and that It doesn’t have enough venting holes. I wish I had bought an Alpinestars one instead. They have much better venting, good rib protection and level 2 CE. Lots of models to choose from. Go to their website. They have some models on sale right now. You could also check out motocrossvest.com for a Kevlar version that people say are very good. No venting though.

That is absolutely beautiful. Nicely done! I bought a 1974 TY250 in 1975 and still dream about it. I loved that bike so much. I crashed it though and while in the hospital with scrapes and a concussion my mother sold it without warning. I didn’t even get the cash from the sale. I’ll hit her up for it though. 😉

Good idea Konrad! I just wanted to add, in case you don’t know davy1 how it works. Copper annealing works great to revive “work hardened” copper. This will allow you to reuse used copper washers over if you don’t have a new one handy. Work hardening happens when you, for example, tighten down your oil plug. The tightening squishes the copper washer to make a good seal but the squishing hardens the copper. That’s why they always say to replace the washers every time you change the oil. Annealing them softens them up again. To anneal them you simply heat them with a torch until cherry red, making sure you move the flame around the washer to heat the entire thing, and then quenching it in water.

I had a similar problem and the answer for me was the throttle cable and not the carburetor. The rubber boot on the cable that fits over the end of the throttle was pulled away slightly causing stretch sometimes and slack sometimes. It was hard to see because I was concentrating on the carb. If this is the problem put a zip tie over the throttle end of the rubber boot and sinch it down tightly against the throttle. I hope this helps. Good luck!