peterb

Pretty sure it was Mick Whitlock

Pretty sure the teflon lined bushes are the same for the TR range 2012 and 2013 linkage systems. The only difference I remember for that year was the link arm, which for 2013 had steel pins in lieu of the vastly superior anodised aluminium pins, and was a retrograde step, the pins would tend to rust up and seize in place. I don't have a 2013 Explorer parts book, just the TR280 so can only go by this. Later years had a larger diameter rocker pin/bush assy so the rocker itself would have a different p/n. Hope this helps, Bye, Peter B.

I don't think it would weld too well but certainly worth having a go. There are a number of reasons why this might have happened. The other engine mount bolts, including the s/arm bolt and bash plate bolts may have been loose plus one of my dislikes about some of the trials bikes, is that, generally the engine bolts tend to go in from new with the apparent use of a hammer as the mounting brackets are not quite where they should be, this puts the motor mounting lugs in a stressed condition and eventually something has to give, especially when the bike is being bounced over rocks. I haven't worked on a Sherco so cannot comment about these. Bye, Peter B.

You can click on the GG site for a 2015 (Hidria model) TXT https://gasgas.com/en/manuals then open up the link for "Manual" and there are wiring diagrams on p41, 42, 43. Bye, Peter B.

Try the piston manufacturers like Vertex in Italy http://www.gb.vertexpistons.com/ they may have pistons that are a similar bore diameter and gudgeon pin diameter which could fit the TR range. Bye, Peter B.

Hi Steve, there were only 3 screws used for the disc on those bikes. Drain the oil, remove, inspect and clean the clutch plates then re-fill with 600ml of ATF rated to Dexron III. 750ml is stated from the factory but 600 is just fine and check if the plates are sticking. Follow this link for a parts manual. Bye, Peter. https://www.motocrosscenter.com/pdf_manual_gasgas/1996jtr250partsbook.pdf

Hi Steve, as mentioned above, you could try Richard Allen, he is a trials bike breaker (Are we ok to mention names on the site?) Why a complete clutch hydraulic system? Usual problems are the seals failing in the master cylinder, which should have DOT 4 oil, you can buy replacement piston/seal kits from most dealers, but would need one for DOT 4 and not mineral oil. The slave cylinder can occasionally come up with problems with the ball bearing in the centre of the piston getting pushed back and then noticing this by the clutch not being allowed to travel far enough to dis-engage properly. There were piston/seal kits for these too. Clutch plates on the older bikes were susceptible to water (usually from a failed water pump shaft/seal), the water if left on the plates causes them to de-laminate. OEM plates dried out (ok then, a pun) a long time ago in a factory far away, but you can get replacement clutch packs from S3 and Sureflex. Don't know what you mean by the fixing to hold on the rear brake disc, the disc is bolted to the hub. Bye, Peter B.

What parts do you need? Have you already tried Gas Gas UK, or their dealer network. Bye, Peter.

You may be able to get something made up from Electrex World Ltd. in Oxfordshire. Bye, Peter B.

Dobroe utro, I would say that you cannot use the oil hole in the bearing outer as the hole for the locking screw. Even if the hole was the correct distance from the edge of the bearing outer, it would be almost impossible to get the hole lined up to the retaining screw. The bearing outer needs to have a slot cut in the correct place. If you cannot get an Ossa bearing, look for a GG one, then calculate where the slot should go and grind one in. The slot was quite a narrow cut. The intention of the location screw was to help prevent the crankshaft from moving out to the left, your model year would have tighter crankcase bearing housing dimensions than the first models and this really alleviated the chance of crankshaft float. You should have the internal and external viton bearing O ring fitted. When you get the new bearings, sometimes the seals are supplied loose, make sure the oil seal is fitted the right way round with the spring facing the pressure area like this photo. The bearing should go all the way home on the crank shaft, then the gear. The gear should be a really tight interference fit, which you can press on or use a puller to draw on the gear. Dosvidania, Peter B.

Bultaco for me, I never got on with a Montesa.

Yes, with hot air first on the gear. The bearing is easier, but you might not be able to get the bearing puller halves behind the bearing and so would need to use two wedges. Use the puller like in this image:

I would use a stronger puller, here is a photo of a bearing separator This type is better to get in behind the gear. Best not to use a flame to heat the gear, use a hot air gun. The gear will be hardened and tempered and you may damage the tempering with a flame.

Dobroe utro, the viton seal on the inner side of the bearing does not usually fail, but if you must change the bearing, you need to heat up the gear with a hot air gun and use a bearing separator tool, with an extractor to withdraw the gear, it is a very tight interference fit on the shaft and takes a lot of force to remove. With the gear off, there is very little room behind the bearing to fit the bearing separator tool, some of these tools are a little more narrow than others and may be able to fit behind the bearing. If not, you can grind up two very thin wedges to use behind the bearing to drive it off the shaft, it is not a very tight fit but the bearing has an O ring seal on the internal diameter of the shaft so may be a little tight at first. At this point in time it would be a good idea to replace the bearing, which comes complete with oli seal and both inner and outer O ring seals. You can use a Gas Gas bearing from a PRO trial model, but would need to grind a slot accurately on the outer sleeve for the locating pin. (I don't know if you can still get an Ossa main bearing) To assemble the crankshaft into the casing is not so easy. With a new bearing and seals fitted and with a gear in place, position the con-rod at bottom dead centre, turn the bearing outer until the slot is at bottom, mark the locating pin hole along the inside of the crank case, up to the outer edge of the left side, using a marker pen. Then mark the slot position of the bearing to the left outer side of the flywheel, so you can align the slot with the locating pin hole when you fit the crankshaft to the crank case. Then, put the crankshaft in a freezer overnight without moving the bearing. The next day, heat the crank case in the over to 100C, when ready carefully fit the frozen crankshaft into position, it will easily fall into place, being careful to line up the marks. Tried to write this in Russian but gave up after "hello" Bye, Peter B.

A few things to look at here. Is your bike a 2011 model? Do you mean that the selector drum was worn where the indexing roller runs in? The shaft with the sprocket on is the secondary shaft, On the primary shaft, is this held in place with a through rod and left hand threaded nut? If not, the primary shaft has a tendency to work out from its LHS bearing and create shifting problems as well as allowing the clutch basket to gouge into the housing. Let me know if the primary shaft is secured in the bearing or not. When the gearbox is correctly assembled into the crank case, there should be no real discernable axial movement. However, when out of the crank case there is nothing to prevent axial play. Nothing holds the secondary shaft in situ at the inner plate end to prevent axial movement, this control is provided by it's fit inbetween the bearing in the LHS and the gearbox inner plate. It is easy to assemble the gearbox into the crankcase slightly wrong, have a look to see that the sprung loaded indexing arm/roller is properly located into the drum, you must be in gear to assemble the gear set. Are you tapping the clutch to ensure the primary shaft is home? I think that will do for now. Bye, Peter.

The seat unit and rear guard are 2011. The rest of the sticker kit is from another year. There should be a VIN number stamped on the headstock, or maybe just printed on a sticker on the back of the fuel tank. The motor has a number stamped in front of the inlet manifold if I remember correctly, so really hard to see. There was no 300 model till later. It may be a 2014/2015 300 factory fitted with a 2011 seat base. Only real way to tell the year is to check the frame number. Bye, Peter B.

Been a year or two since I stripped a Fantic motor, it was not the easiest to get the crank cases apart and only split in one direction, I don't remember which way but just wanted to make you aware. The selector forks looked sturdy, I'd be inclined to see if you are getting sufficient selector drum rotation as you change gear. There is a selector plate that has a rotational travel stop, have a look to see that there is enough travel available to move the drum to select each gear. Have a look to see if there is a spring loaded device used as an indexing locator, this could be a problem. Failing these, check the selector forks are straight. Fantics have a well made gearbox. Bye, Peter B.

Hi Handyman, the problem may not be the shaft. At the right end of the shift shaft is a selector spring that sits over a sleeved washer with a pin through one end. I think this is called the selector positioner assembly in the parts book. The pin locates into the slot in the end of the shaft. When the gear lever takes a large knock, sometimes the sleeved washer is forcibly rotated and becomes out of alignment which then does not allow you to select gears in one direction usually. The assembly does not take too much to be out of alignment and may well look ok at first glance, the pin must be exactly in alignment with the integral tab that the spring ends locate onto. This is usually the first thing to go when you take a knock on the gear lever, worth having a look first before splashing out on a shaft. You can see this unit behind the clutch basket. Bye, Peter B.

The flywheel on the end of the crankshaft is a taper fit, you can make up a sturdy puller with a suitably shaped steel frame and pick up the two hole centres in the flywheel, unless you already have one. Be aware of the two different thickness washers behind the clutch centre/ clutch basket. Bye, Peter B.

As above plus, check the fuel tank vent is not blocked, check fuel tap filter is not blocked also the filter on the carb, if it has one. Try running the bike down hill and wind open the throttle to get it to cut out and do a plug check to see if it is wet, if so then the problem is very likely ignition. Have you checked the ground on the ignition system? Bye, Peter B.

If your bike has the standard DellOrto PHBH 26, they were always set up running rich on the main jet, from memory this was 118 with a 30 pilot jet. By spluttering do you mean it is running rich? If so, then change the main jet to a 115 or 112 if not used on the road. I imagine that you have cleaned the air filter. Bye, Peter B.

It does not matter where your arrowed groove is pointing to. The float arms connect to the pin extending from the valve body via a forked clip. Been a few years since I stripped a DellOrto so I could be wrong about the clip. Bye, Peter B.

I'm feeling a bit sheepish now for having said the signal out of the ECU was unlikely to go bad (I was thinking of just the internal circuitry -- had not considered a broken pin). Hi Konrad, baaaaaa ?????? (Strange Yorkshire humour) Hi Viper, the old standard solder for PCB (printed circuit board) work is 60/40 tin and lead which should have a rosin core, the rosin acts as a flux to keep the joint clean. As lead is toxic the later solder wire replaced the lead with copper and other alloying agents. The 60/40 solder is known as soft solder as it melts at a reasonably low temperature, around 232C. I should bring some with me as your jeweller has mysteriously vanished! Bye, Peter B.

Good fault finding skills Viper. Spare ECU's are hard to come by. I would try to make a repair, would not be pretty but it would work. Using a Dremel type mini die grinder, with a fine tip router bit, work away at the plastic/potting around the broken pin to reveal more of the pin, very carefully tin the pin (don't leave the heat on too long). Drill a small access hole to the right of the broken pin in your photo for a small diameter insulated wire, tin the end of the wire, feed through the hole and very carefully solder it to the pin. Solder another wire to the cable going to the socket (female connector) that lines up with the broken pin, then connect these two wires using an in-line connector so you can still connect and disconnect the ECU plug. If you like, I can pop over and do it for you, if you pay the air fare! Bye, Peter B.

The Doblo was my first choice for bike transport with a 1.9L diesel but ended up with a Peugeot Partner 2L diesel, which looks to have a similar platform as the Berlingo and Doblo. With 2 of the 3 rear seats removed in the Peugeot, a trials bike goes in easy once the forks are compressed and tied to give you some head room between the bars and roof. The wheelchair model Doblo provides easy ramp access for a bike and would still need one of the two rear seats removed to get the front wheel into the footwell area. The wheelchair Doblo could be lower than the standard version, best to check that out with a dimensions spec. Looking at the photo, I don't think the lowered area is going to be a ground clearance issue. Bye, Peter B.