peterb

Be aware of the 2002 GG Pro, this was the first year model and did have its fair share of gearbox/clutch problems, possibly all fixed by this stage. If you could be more specific about the bike's year and model that would be a help. Bye, Peter B.

The outer, driven clutch basket runs on a needle roller bearing 25x33x20, they usually have a bit of free play when new. The clutch centre on these can be an unusually loose fit, the centre is held in place by the M10 Allen bolt plus washer. If you have a close look, the washer does not come up against the centre so when the M10 bolt is tightened, there is tension on the shaft but the centre is allowed to rock. I made up a hefty washer to allow the M10 bolt to pull up against the clutch centre to get some of the slop out of the clutch. Hope this helps. Bye, Peter B.

You can try Trials and Tribulations though not sure how far from Manchester they are. It is unusual for an Ossa to cut out at a certain temp. There is no temp cut out that I am aware of, there is a temp sensor for coolant (perhaps on the 2012 model onwards) and a temp sensor for the fueling algorithm. Are you sure there is not another problem? What are the symptoms, what is happening? Engine running is easily affected by corroded connectors in the wiring loom, particularly at the ECU. Do not scrape these with a screwdriver as they were gold plated and can be easily scratched off. To clean the ECU plug/socket, spray with a contact cleaner like Wurth type OL. Can also be a problem with the fuel pump system, check the fuel pressure exiting the pump, should be around 50 psi. By this time of life, the fuel pump filter may be blocked, also the pump itself may be partially choked, check the small inlet orifice at the bottom of the pump, not easy to see. The pump is difficult to get to as it is in the bottom of the fuel tank, I can't remember if we had to remove the motor to get to it or not, been a few years ago. Bye, Peter B.

It's possible that the gear lever has hit a rock at some stage and damaged the selector spring collar, a "top hat" as it is known by. If so, then it would be difficult to select gears correctly. The top hat can be replaced, complete with spring if this is the case, an easy repair. BVM should have these in stock. The kickstart mechanism consists of a geared 5 tooth quadrant the rotates along the kickstart shaft to engage with an idler gear to start the engine. If you are not used to starting a GG it's possible to damage the quadrant gear teeth, and/or idler gear where pieces of gear teeth can chip off. Best to have a look there. Another possibility is that the kickstart gears have simply become jammed and maybe if you put the bike in gear and rock the motor backwards and forwards then this may free up the kickstart. I would still take a look there anyway. Don't loose the washer between the kickstart shaft and the clutch case when you remove this. Tip the bike on it's side, leave the water pump connected up, no need to drain the coolant. Let's know what you find. Bye, Peter B.

I've seen a barrel just like the one in the first photo today, in a museum in Hamilton NZ, on a DMW. I thought it looked like it had been home made, and didn't think it was a Marcelle, but perhaps it is. The fins are a lot thicker than the Challenger barrel, so I don't think it would be one of those.Shame that I didn't take a close look at the exhaust mounting. I will be back there in a couple of weeks and have another look. Bye, Peter B.

A few things to look at. The kickstart shaft runs in a needle roller bearing in the crankcase, the shaft may just have popped out of the housing as you took off the clutch cover. Those bearings don't usually give any trouble. A photo of the kickstart shaft in the casing would help. The double sided water pump seal is not usually so easy to remove, first thing to look at when coolant gets into the gearbox is to replace the water pump shaft and seal, also have a look at the impellor as it may be damaged. If coolant is still entering the gearbox then very likely the cylinder head O rings are passing, or there is a crack in the cylinder head O ring groove. You can't just use nitrile seals for the inner O ring, these have to be Viton for heat compatibility. Bye, Peter B.

It looks like the casing on my 1977 325 with the oil drain via one of the casing screws, I don't know the model number. Bye, Peter B.

Hi Dazza, I just noticed your question today. I don't have any photos of the ball bearing, do you mean the one embedded in the clutch slave piston? If you ever need a new slave piston kit, they are not so easy to find and are in at least 2 different diameters, 28 and 29mm. Bye, Peter B.

If the carb is a DellOrto, then at the air inlet end of the carb, there is a cast stub that fits inside the rubber boot that connects the carb to the air filter. There is probably a black rubber sleeve that fits over the carb stub, sometimes, the sleeve gets pushed up into the the rubber boot and the carb is unable to be made air tight at that end. Have a look at this and see if this is the case. A photo would help. Alternatively, if the rubber sleeve is in place on the carb, then it is best to clamp up to this end first, the air inlet side of the carb, before trying to fit the carb to the inlet manifold rubber. Bye, Peter B.

I don't own an older GG any longer, and use Motul 800 2T fully synthetic oil in my modern bike. On the 321 I used a mineral based oil for the pre mix, at 50:1, but I think you would be fine with either Motul or Putoline synthetic 2T at 70:1 Bye, Peter B

Your bike is over 19 years old, and by this time the water pump shaft and seal would have worn allowing coolant into the gearbox. If the coolant got into the gearbox, the oil turns a milky looking colour. The water in the oil reacts with the adhesive on the clutch plate fibres, loosening them. The plates then tend to drag a lot. The other problem causing clutch drag is likely with the master cylinder, replacing the kit (DOT 4) is straight forward. The third problem is that the clutch slave piston has a ball bearing at the end of a hole where the clutch pushrod is located. This ball bearing has been known to be forced deeper into the slave piston, with the result that the piston reaches the limit of it's travel (hard up against the crank case) without actually fully disengaging the clutch. Bye, Peter B.

I run Alpina fork yokes in my 325 Sherpa, needs a bit of sorting to get everything to fit properly, the rear mudguard stay needs to have a different bend to miss clouting the frame down tube. I prefer the set up with the Alpina yokes, with the bar position right over the top of the steering stem. Feels more like a modern bike. Steering is an improvement for my liking. I used the Alpina front wheel with the larger brake drum, a pity it is 1kg heavier than the Sherpa wheel. Bye, Peter B.

You could try a flywheel weight. There are 2 weight options, I have tried only the lighter weight, 366 gms which feels excellent on my 280 R2 (This weight is supplied fitted as standard). I prefer the softer power delivery of this R2 over any Vertigo 250. You would need the kit, weight, cover spacer and stator spacer. Bye, Peter B.

G'day Dazza, a balmy 26C here. E10 is 10% ethanol isn't it? I am pretty sure that using ethanol in 2T motors is not the best as the ethanol (alcohol) attacks the seal elastomers in the engines, have yours been ok with this fuel over a long period? It may just be a problem with our E10 fuel over here in NZ. Those 320/321 models go really well with a Keihin PWK28. Bye, Peter B.

The usual carbs fitted to GG trials bikes have mostly been DellOrto PHBL26, during 1996-1998 GG fitted PHBH26, which I thought never performed as well as the usual carb, particularly when riding over different altitudes, plus they have a dual stage pilot jet that is prone to blocking. Anyway, with your carb, the standard jets are as follows: Needle X19 clip 3rd slot from top, I think I ran mine at 2nd from bottom - or maybe this is the same notch. Slide 45 Main 122 Needle jet (Emulsor) 269 Pilot 50 They used to run a bit rich so very likely a 118 main is worth a try, if this is the case. Bye, Peter B.

Yes, you need a mineral clutch master kit. The slave piston seals are teflon coated O rings, just assemble these paying meticulous attention to keeping everything ultra clean. You may find that the problem is just with the clutch master, try this first as after replacing the master kit, it is easy to bleed as the system tends to self bleed with use of the clutch lever. Bye, Peter B.

Later model Ossa water pumps came with a stop to prevent end float of the shaft, unsure of the year. Earlier models as described had nothing to prevent shaft end float and in some cases, the movement caused the impellor to rub against the housing creating a grey sludgey mess in the cooling system. The GG water pump dual lipped seal fits straight in. Pretty sure the Xiu electric water pump is identical to the standard issue Vertigo unit, which have been quite reliable with no chance of coolant leaking past the shaft due to a non mechanical drive to the impellor. Bye, Peter B.

Hi Hector, if you are going to remove the clutch basket, beware the clutch centre is a tight fit on the splined primary shaft and needs a puller to remove it. The clutch centre has a threaded centre to allow you to screw in a matching bolt that extracts it from the basket. Be sure to remove the centre screw first, preferably not with a rounded ball end allen key. I don't remember the thread form, something like 18x 1.25, was a fine thread.

The Spanish RFME licence fee for 2020 is 330 Euros.

I found the 260 Repsol to be a lot of fun to ride, makes a proper noise and has fantastic suspension. But, whenever you start to get in trouble, up a river or hopping over rocks, the extra weight of the 4RT really tires you out. I think, the bike suits a clubman rider who is not going to do any hopping around and generally taking things easy, and also suits a top level rider who has the skill and ability to ride the bike without getting worn out. Riders in between are likely to find things easier with a 2T bike, especially when getting on a bit. Other plus points are a really good build quality, generally good reliability and ease of starting. If you are not enjoying the bike, best to move on.

If you don't get a reply for a TLM250 parts list, I have a parts list and manual for a TLM220, which would be similar. Let me know if you would like this posted on here. Bye, Peter B.

Where you have the green circles is where we put them, have to say the newer models are better sealed, but we still use extra O rings. Only last week I stripped one down after about 18 months use, no play in the linkage and no signs of water ingress, rust or wear. Bye, Peter B.

Empty tin used as an air filter cover for those old mesh things on a Villiers carb?

The Sachs shock works well and was a standard fitment on the GG Pro for a lot of years. The Ohlins was an improvement and fitted generally to the Raga replica bikes. Best to make sure that the Sachs replacement has the same centre to centre length as your original. Bye, Peter B.

Hi jsp, a Vertigo Ice 300, then a whole bunch of bikes over the last 40 years.