charliechitlins

3mm!?!? As we say in the Bronx: Fugeddaboutit! Just give them all a tap with a screwdriver and make sure they go 'ding' and none go 'bunk'. If the spoke(s) that crosses the spoke you are hitting is actually touching it, tug it away before you tap so you get a clear 'ding' If you want to try straightening, it's not a big mystery. The spokes that go to the left side of the hub will pull the rim left when you tighten them. The spokes that go to the right....you get it. The rim can also be a little tweaked and won't totally straighten. If the spokes already 'bing', you probably shouldn't tighten them more than 1/2 turn.

Wet clutches will stick. Especially if they sit for a while. You could try putting the bike in a high gear (engine off) and rocking it back and forth until it breaks loose, or you could start the bike, get it rolling and ease it into 2nd (this will avoid damage to the gearbox) and ride it. It will probably break loose, unless you have another problem. But if it worked well last time you rode, you're probably OK. If it happens too often, you can strip the clutch, clean the plates with brake cleaner and bead blast the steel plates.

I realize the shim and bucket thing is superior, but wouldn't something adjustable (the old adjuster and stop nut, or something on an eccentric that can be adjusted) be a little more kind for us 2-stroke folk? What do you do if you don't have a local dealer? Take 5 measurements, place an order and wait for your shims to show up in the mail just so you can do a bit of routine maintenance? I'm not slagging, Yam or Scorpa...I'm sure they'll all be the same.

That's Marland Whaley. And those southern California guys don't see much mud.

Adjustable handlebar clamp. Adjustable footpeg position. Recycled Aluminum. Thicker disks, but more slots. 5 valves. I don't even know how many the others are using. Interesting stuff. I'm keeping my valve lathe at the ready and wondering what size/angle seat cutters I'll be using in a few years.

I too have used JB weld for this. And some silicone to make sure it seals well. It's not easy making a 'machine' surface with glue, a straightedge and a razor blade, but it can be done with patience. The only other chouce is to take down the engine and have the case welded and machined.

Those rotors are lightened more than any I've ever seen. They were shaving ounces! The pipes do look like mud catchers. Damn fine looking bike, though.

Last time I lost a shifter was on a Harley. Actually, I dropped the bike crossing a creek (don't ask) and snapped it. Snap some visegrips on the shaft, a ziptie on the handle and down the road! Actually...I have used a small set of visegrips for just about every lever or pedal possible. Even used a pair to hold a broken clutch cable together.

2003, eh? So, when was the last time you checked the pinch bolt?

I've got it!!!!! Up your's Buster! OK....so I'm not in top form today.

I'm trying to think of something clever. Check back later.

HEY!! She was 18!! Only kidding. It was an old private school We had, shall we say, philosophical differences. I actually got reprimanded for being "forward thinking". Talk about bad timing!

OK...so I lost my job and have too much time on my hands, and I'm fooling around with my bike. A while ago a real good rider asked me, on a muddy day, how much rear tire pressure I was running because I was getting such terrible traction. Well...I was only running about 3psi, so it must just be that I suck. I thought that I'd try retarding my timing..a lot...because it's at almost full advance. I put it at almost full retard and here's what I noticed: -The muffler started to burn on a very small hill -Even after it stopped smoking, my boot, where it contacted the muffler, was getting real hot. -The muffler got so hot, it melted a hole in the fender. -The power was soft as hell, and I was getting great traction on hills. -I think I'll advance it a bit.

--Replace the flywheel and turn it so one of the holes is at 12 o'clock. --Measure the distance from that hole to the bend in the frame just above the swingarm pivot. --Drill 2 holes in a bar (or get a piece of that angle iron with holes in it used for metal shelving), put a bolt in each hole and secure with nuts. --One of these bolts will go into the hole in the flywheel (not too far, or it'll bugger up your stator), and the other will rest against said crook in the frame. This simple doodad will keep the flywheel from turning while you apply the proper amount of torque, I'm sure it could be adapted to other brands, but I like Shercos

I'm assuming you mean the outer race. The inner race is where the axle goes through. You could try to knock them out from the inside (with a drift on the inner race) with no regard to saving the bearing. If you use a little heat (stay below 200F.) the whole bearing will probably come out. If there's just no way, you could cut the bearing out, leaving the outer race in the hub, then run a bead of weld around the inside of the race and as it cools, the race will just drop out. Don't forget to cut a couple notches in the hub so you have a place to put your punch next time.

If you have a meter that checks voltage, etc (if not, they can be had very cheaply), it will have a mode for continuity, meaning "can electricity flow through this thing that I'm touching with these two probes?" If switch AB is open A / B you'll have no continuity between A and B. If it's closed A--B you'll have continuity between A and B because they're connected. So, if there's a wire with power on A and a wire on B that goes to your fan, your fan will be off until the thermostat heats up, the connection closes, and it allows power to pass through to the fan. Fortunately, these things are usually made so the least dangerous thing happens if they crap out--meaning, if it breaks, it'll keep your fan on rather than keeping it off.

Meet you by the river in Royersford

If you put a continuity meter on both terminals of your thermostat when cold, and get a circuit, you need a thermostat.

You didn't get less this time, you got more the other times!

If anybody wants that Italjet, it's about 1.5 hours from me. I could pick it up.

Very easy job. Make sure you get a 2-wire kill button so you don't have to depend on the mount bracket for a reliable ground.

Don't pretend you don't know.

On my TY350, I had tied a piece of inner tube to the frame and used it to hold the footpeg out of the way while I kicked. I got a much longer kick, the bike was easier to start, and I didn't have that mashed-flat spot on my footpeg. I disliked having to slam one part of my bike into another. I did, though, have to be careful not to let the kicker hit the engine at the bottom of the stroke.

I didn't know you could get charisma in different viscosities. Mine takes straight 70wt. Now THAT'S charisma! I think it's because Harley's are a bit like dogs. They not only mark their territory, but they also love to ride in the back of pickup trucks.

And if it used to run well, it can't be jetting. Those little holes in those little brass thingies seldom get bigger