charliechitlins

If you can't get the disk back between the pads after taking the wheel off, stick something between then and pry them apart. Use something dull, like a tire iron, that won't gouge the pads.

Glad to be of service. As you can see, you can get in the ballpark, and begin to work with personal preference. It's one of those questions that gets asked several times a year, and it might seem like one of those useless things, because everybody has their own opinion, and even if you do come up with something that's "right", it may not work for someone else simply because their gauge is different. Occasionally, though, someone new to trials posts, and it turns out they've been running 15psi and can't figure out why he/she isn't getting any traction on slippery hills.

Al's conversion is very clean and allows for the option of retaining the hand brake. He has posted pictures, etc. Maybe check the archives. I'll email him and have him check this thread.

I know the perfect all-purpose tire pressures, but I'm not telling.

Easy enough to see if it's actually rubbing.

When refilling the oil, I just take the tank off and lie the bike on the ground. Pop a funnel in the filler hole and go. Much faster and easier than the funnel with attached hose that I used to hang off the handlebar.

Should be an easy job. You just need to pull the flywheel. Is Beta the one that you can use a universal puller (like a steering wheel puller) on? If you don't have a torque wrench, mark the nut and shaft before you disassemble, so you get it back on to factory spec. You'll also need a way to hold the flywheel while you R&R the nut. I usually improvise a tool, but I suppose you could put the bike in gear and hold the brake pedal. The Beta owners will be able to help you more with the specifics of the job, but if you can change a tire and your wheel bearings, you can change a stator.

I made a clutch lever for my son from a broken one. I cut it just beyond where the index finger would grab it, and put a blob of weld on the end, for safety, and it keeps the finger from slipping off. What this allows you to do is pull the lever right to the grip, so you can start with it closer in. If you can't weld, a blob of epoxy would do. The down side is, if you're getting tired or trying to save some strength on the loop trail, it's almost impossible to use more than one finger. I like them because they're pre-broken and I can't break them again

If you put the new, spare lever on before the old one breaks, you'll break the new one in 15 minutes.

Cut earholes in the sides of the helmet and duct-tape flashlights to them. They go towards light. You'll look cool, too.

I understand what you're saying, but it sounds lame to me. If I were in the business of selling a machine (manufacturer, importer, or dealer) I would make sure that my bikes were being properly set up before they got to the customer. I, as a professional mechanic, cannot imagine saying, "Sorry, pal. That's the way the part was when I took it out of the box. I take no responsibility for the fact that it doesn't work."

Permanently connecting wires is a good way to get home without overheating, but it's not a long-term (or even medium-term) fix.

Disconnect leads from thermostat. Start bike and connect wires. If the fan runs, you need a thermostat. If fan doesn't run, check wires for voltage (one should have it) by hooking a meter to wire and ground (or use test light, or scrape wire along ground and look for spark, or get your whole body wet and hold wire in your mouth). If no voltage, check wiring. If yes voltage, you probably need a fan.

Sounds like you're out of luck for a trail-side repair, but many of my broken parts get replaced...then repaired and saved for spares. Weld that sucker up and keep it with your spares.

It helps to say where you're from. I just assumed England because you said 'silencer', not 'muffler'.

The big screw is idle speed. It's just a tapered needle that raises the slide when you turn it in. The smaller one is mixture. Check the float level and make sure the needle is free in the seat. Beware rubber-tipped needles. Gasolone formulas are changing all the time and causing havoc with rubber (and paint!).

Excuse me Charlie, snap ring?????? The SY uses tried and tested heavy duty stuff! You know a very big nut and a washer you beat the S%^t out of with a hammer like the old Montesa's before Honda gobbled them up. Right! It's been almost 3 years now since I moved, so I no longer have every dirt-encrusted piece of my old buddy's Scorpa etched in my memory He now has to drive several hours to take his bike to the importer for repairs...and he makes him pay!.......Money, not beer!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And yes...I have often seen the results of a saved trip to Sears that results in the removal of a large fastener with hammer and cold chisel. Not that I've ever done it myself, mind you.

Glue up the ferrules/holes and forget them. Put a couple holes in the very rear of the airbox and use them to zip tie it to the frame. Slip a few zipties in your crossbar pad in case you ever need to take your airbox off in the woods.

I'm not familiar with the bike, but in general: Have your drum turned. Warn whoever does it to take off the absolute minimum to bring it to round. Auto mechanics can be brutal and will take off .060 and trash your drum if you don't warn them. Then find a brake place that can arc your shoes to exactly match the drum. Get a catalogue from a home-made airplane supply company and buy some cable that has plenty of longitudal strands. Look for the ones that say they have minimal stretch. You'd be amazed at how much of your hand effort goes into pulling cable that twists and gets longer. They should also sell ferrules that you can use for ends. There are more things you can do, but just these 2 will make a major difference.

Smaller countershaft sprockets will have you going slower with the same revs, and will make your gear ratios closer together. Hence, less speed in each gear. A Scorpa has a pretty grunty motor, so I imagine the larger sprocket will be fine. It's a matter of personal preference, though. You may as well try them to see what you like. Put the snap ring on with the flat face towards you.

That stuff looks really nice!

Only after taking a wheel off? You're probably putting greasy fingerprints on the disk.

Some very meticulous folks (read: Jon Stoodley ) allow for variables in how much oil draind out during a change and prefer to measure the height of the oil. Check his tech tips on the GG website. There might be a spec.