charliechitlins

New clutches generally help slipping clutches...seldom dragging ones. Check the slots in the clutch basket that the fingers on the outer edges of the plates go into. If they are grooved, you should smooth them. Lighter oil often helps dragging. These are generalities. You will get more help if you state the make/model/year of your bike.

Yeah...sarcasm. You're right. Nikisil has been used on all of these things for around 25 years.

Shocking!

If it waited until the end of the day to happen, you have to go for the usual suspects. New plug Clean carb Check fan.

As for jetting, 33 and 126 should do it.

There are about as many opinions as there are oils. I run full synth at 80:1 Many run 100:1 successfully. 60:1 is on the rich side, but if you burn out the muffler now and again...

I was pleased with the quality of the '95 model that I maintained.

I don't know anything about web design. Good riding, though!

Of course...you should check with someone who knows what the hell he's talking about. I'd start with an actual GG mechanic at a dealership.

I'm not familiar with this model, but my gut feeling for any shaft is that you need a bit of endplay, but not up-and-down.

Now it's time to rekindle your relationship with spelling!

I think you've got it upside-down.

Whatever it is, it's 99.9% sure that it's something you messed with. Go back over your work. Look for spark with the tank off in case you're pinching/shorting a wire.

Hard to imagine the steel is too "special". It would be a good precaution, though, to put down about 3/8" of bead, then stop and beat it with a hammer to relieve stress...the metal's...not your's.

You called it. At my age, 22 is a kid. The best test for your neck bearings is to get the front wheel off the ground, grab the sliders down by the axle, and push and pull to feel for play. You may have a floating brake disk that is making it feel like there is play in the neck.

If you want to vent a mag case 9and you do), put a hole in the rubber block where the wires are (hot phillips screwdriver) and run a piece of vent hose up to the steering neck. Fluid dynamics tells us that if a sealed compartment is heated and rapidly cooled, you will get quite a vacuum. Enough to easily suck water past gaskets, o-rings and/or various sealers. And the air circulation will cut down on condensation.

It's only a little zap. Not like from the HT lead.

Go to this link. Rim band replacement

The quick and dirty way (I'm gonna catch hell for this) is to disconnect the hot lead from the mag at the coil. Hold it in your hand and give a good kick. If you get zapped, your mag is probably working and your coil is suspect. If there's no zap, you could try the lead from the mag to the 'black box'. If you don't get zapped there, it's probably your stator. There is a certain amount of conjecture on my part here, because I've only done this on bikes with points, but I suppose it would work for electronic. I'm assuming you checked the sparkplug and cap (and connection at the cap) first.

Here's what happened. I have obtained a tape of the event smuggled out of the country in a brioche : -(Thick Yorks accent)Hello French people. I need a new job. -(Nasal) Awwww hawww...Zee Limey ees seeck of zee quatre-stroke, yes no? -It's not that. It's just that I'm sick of the food where I live. If I eat 'bangers and quag' one more time, I'll...I'll.... -Calm down, we can move you to Fronce, feed you on zee frog legs and bunny rabbeet, and poot you on zee Scorpa. But first...we need to see you rrrride. -You need to see me ride? -But of course. -But I'm...I'm...don't you know who I am? -Of courrrse nous do, monsieur Lumpkeen, but nobody gets zee job weethout firrrst we see him rrride zee bike. -OK...if you say so... -(aside)Queek...Francois...get zee camera and get zee pictures of Lumpkeen rrriding zee Scorpa in zee Montesa suit! Zen... we do zee...how you say...noire-mail. Eeef he does not pay up, we keednap heem like we deed with zat Schreiber guy, and zee world will neverrr see heem again!

I have some experience with a '95 Section that I used to maintain. I found it very peaky. Revved very fast, like an MXer. The owner presented me with a flywheel weight that he bought to make a little more torque, and when I removed the flywheel cover to install it, there was already one there. The idea that these have a lack of power may come from the feeling of light flywheel. I would say that the chassis is far superior to the Zero.

Steve, Here's my 2 cents (tuppence). After being away from trials for 20-something years, I bought a TY350 with the idea that it would be more bike than I'd ever need, and it would be the most modern bike I'd ever owned, even if it was 15 years old. I loved it, and it was a great way to rediscover trials, but then I rode an '01 Sherco, and there was no going back. It's purely personal opinion, but as much as I like my old street bikes (really old), when it comes to competition machinery, the better a bike is, the more I like it. Spend a few more quid and look for the latest generation, which probably starts around '99, and you'll never have to think, "Maybe I can't do that because of my bike." If you're like me, you'll always know you suck because you're hopeless, not because your bike is old.

No, Al. Only you.

That's a technique thing. If you're doing it right, your skidplate won't touch any but the largest logs. This is what I've heard, anyway. There used to be a good description on the GG website of the "double blip" as taught by Mark Manniko. This may also be on the Trials Training Center website. Better yet, buy Ryan Young's DVD. Most would agree that it is, by far, the best training tool of its kind.

The 321 is a good bike. GG had some fragile kick gears around then, and the 321 is hardest on them. Take up the slack and push. Don't slap.