charliechitlins

I don't know where you are, and I don't know what a scooby is.

These WES ones look very nice to me. Click here

It sounds like what you need to do is buy a new rim and spokes and lace it up. Clean and check the hub very carefully, especially around the spoke holes.

Much easier to fix a puncture.

Beautiful!

All my 12-year-old could say was "Daaaang". That is one tasty looking piece of machinery. Are we witnessing the birth of a new kind of bike/style? Very exciting.

Welcome! You bought a great bike. The '02 had higher gearing than other years. I know an excellent rider who loves it and rides it successfully, but many like the lower gearing. Dropping a tooth from the countershaft sprocket makes it like the other models. I THINK 10 teeth is stock. Also...many wet clutches stick when cold. You can put the bike in gear and rock it before starting, or, after starting, give yourself a shove to get rolling and ease it into gear.

The Italjet lives only a few mikes from me. I can't wait to get a peep at it!

Agreed. Check out the neck angle.

Welding will shrink a race and is good if the race is stuck in the neck. I think the OP (I learned that one not long ago ) has a bearing stuck on his stem. I get them warm and go at them with a hammer and a drift pin, working opposite sides evenly.

Click for Ryan Young's Web Page

3M Weatherstrip Adhesive. It'll never come off your bars or your fingers. Killer stuff. Gorilla snot.

Oh, stop it.

I'll sell you a Sherco and a case of lime green spraypaint.

Your chain is probably toast, so no amount of tightening will make up for the wear in the links. Grab your chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket (at around 7:00pm ) and pull to the rear. If you can pull the chain back enough to expose half a sprocket tooth, get a new chain. You could buy an o-ring chain and never think about it again except to hit it with some silicone spray after a wash.

Bead breaker? You mean a C-clamp?

Everybody's got their own ideas, but here's mine. I would ride the bike easily until up to operating temperature, then shut it down and let it cool; being very aware of obvious differences, especially knocking and/or excessive heat. Have a look at the sparkplugs and make sure they're a nice, toasty brown. I would do this 3 times and re-torque everything. Then I'd put another 3-5 hours on it before really thrashing it. Generally for Mikunis, the big screw is for idle speed, and the little screw is for idle mixture. Generally for all carbs: if the little screw is in front of the slide it's a fuel screw and opening it will add more fuel (richen) to the mixture, and if it's behind the slide, it's an air screw and opening it will add more air (lean) to the mixture.

Chucking the fork tube in a lathe and smoothing it with some #600 emery makes them oh-so-nice, and your seals will last longer. This can be done by hand, but it takes longer.

In an effort to not hijack the thread, anybody interested in updates on my '38 Indian project, I've put some pics in the "Anything" section.

Aaahhhh. You flatter me. It takes 2 men and a boy to get that sucker in the frame. Tight fit! Just did it tonight.

The rockers get finned aluminum covers. The weird thing is, if you notice, you can only see one valve per cylinder. The exhaust valve in the cylinder is next to the bore, so it's half a flathead, or IOE, meaning intake over exhaust. The lower end has all babbitt bearings. Molten bearing material is poured into shells and machined to size. I'll post some pictures as it progresses, if anybody's interested. Smaller pictures, that is.

If there's not pressure-fed oil, what gets it up to the cams? And what do the journals turn in? Excuse my ignorance.

Lookin good, Les! Is that THREE of your's on the podium?

Right. It's not impact. If they get dry and crusty enough, they will just drop out. Fortunately, after doing them once or twice, you'll be able to service them quickly. By the 3rd time, you should have it to about 30 minutes.