charliechitlins

Crap. My diagram was rearranged and it doesn't work now. The parentheses are supposed to be in a semi-circle with the 'hump' facing the vertical line.

I'm not so sure that's always correct. The flat edge is the thrust side, and it should be facing the direction it would get shoved out of its groove. So whatever is doing the shoving, would contact the rounded edge. On a fork leg or a wristpin, for instance, the flat would face out. If the rounded edge is pushed against a squared slot, tha ring could get wedged open (if it is an external ring) or closed (if it is an internal ring). l l l ( l ( ( ( ( This is sort of a cross-section. If the thing on the right were being pushed toward the thing on the left, one of them would be levered out of the way. If they were both flat, this wouldn't be the case.

If the circlip is a "snap-ring" (with 2 holes for snap-ring pliers), make sure you put it on facing the right direction. They have a thrust side, and improper installation can make them pop off.

I can't wait to ride one! And I'm commonly kicking over in excess or 1200cc of 4-stroke motor, so I doubt starting will be a problem.

Bravo, Dan! You're a class act.

He's probably right. I'd guess 14-15.

Your shock is rebuildable. There could also be several hundred psi of nitrogen in it. Any work is best performed by a knownedgeable pro.

Oh yeah...I think I just added a little preload and a little heavier oil (10wt, maybe) and the fork was fine. I have about 200lbs that I admit to.

My favorite TY350 mods: '86 shock with reservoir Boyesen reed valve (and "stuffer') from '89 CR125 Footpegs moved down and back about an inch in each direction Shave off about half of the band that is pressed on the flywheel for extra weight. I never found the need for a new carb. Blast and paint the inside of the rims (rustoleum rusty metal primer holds on like a rabid dog) as they tend to rust from the inside out. Take care not to over-tighten the spokes. They are getting scarce and expensive. Lengthen clutch throwout arm 3/4" and replace inner cable with something thinner and more flexible, and you'll have a 1-finger clutch that is almost as easy as a hydraulic. There are probably more, but it's been a while. If you're interested, I'll try to find my notes.

Not sure what Seal-all is. Thanks for the advice, RS, but it sounds like it could leave a pretty big spot when I'm done. The crack is less than the width of a toothpick and less than 1/2" long.

When the mixture screw on my Sherco is spot on, I can ride in 4th gear just barely above chain-snatch speed, and a twist of the throttle gets the front end right up. That's my final test after the adjustment RS suggested above.

Also...when you put it all back together, make sure to follow the torque spec on the flywheel. Many don't get tightened enough and the flywheel slips and shears the key, and you risk buggering up the shaft.

There are ways to get it just so, if you can indicate top dead center and measure where the piston is, etc. but the truth is, on these bikes the entire range of timing is useable, and a matter of personal preference. So if your timing is maxed out in either direction, you won't have a bike that doesn't start or will put holes in the top of the piston. Your power delivery will just be a little softer or faster as you move toward the extremes of adjustment. As with your mixture screw, there is a very small range of adjustment. Take a look at your old stator plate, check where it is slightly marred from the hold-down screws, put the new plate on in that position and you'll be fine.

I have a pretty nice fiberglass tank that has original paint and matches the...um...patina, shall we say, of the rest of the bike. What I've got is a very minor looking ding on top of the tank, but it weeps fuel. Anybody got any tips for this kind of repair?

I'm more familiar with SAE than metric, but it seems to me that a Heli-coil would be able to bring 10 down to 8. Maybe they have a website and you could check the drill and tap sizes in the kits.

My son's snapped, too. The first thing I did was to begin to resist the temptation to make that little thing haul my fat @ss around. When installing the new unit, I noticed that the top of the shock was hitting the frame, causing the eye to tweak, so I ground a bit off the frame. Did the rod snap just below the top eye, like mine?

If you weld all the way round, it'll drop out as it cools! I love hearing them hit the floor when I'm off in the corner putting the welder away.

Just check your plug . If it's nice and tan, no problem. If it's white, you could be running too hot. Then check timing (as mentioned) cooling (fan, coolant level, waterpump), and look for air leaks.

I also used to grind off the tip of the needle and drop in a ball bearing when the seat was whipped. Give the bearing a good whack with a hammer and punch to seat it in the brass. Always worked perfectly, but maybe stuff is a bit more precise these days. Not that I'm recommending that...it's just that my age causes me to be tedious and reminisce.

My uneducated guess would be that leaded fuel is OK. Lead is a lubricant, and more of that would probably help a top end. It does leave deposits, and I could imagine that having an effect on the small sparkplug gaps we run. Until we are forced to run catalytic converters, it's probably not a problem. BUT (that's a big but ), I would never recommend it, as I'm only guessing. The safest bet is to follow factory recommendations, and I think all factories specifically call for unleaded.

I run my '01 without the half link. Chain still fits. I think, though, my swingarm is a tad shorter than later models.

Sounds more like a symptom than a problem. I've never heard of anything like this. Definitely check if anything looks suspect in the assembly department. Or maybe the disk was cracked from an impact. Check the disks for signs of impact and check the crack for rust, which would tell you that it's been cracked for a while. There is no reason, though, to avoid the OEM replacement.

Right! Those trials bike flywheels are heavy. When the engine suddenly stops, they really want to keep going!

The woodruff key gives no support. It is only to locate the flywheel on the shaft. It is made of soft metal and is meant to shear so it won't wipe out the shaft if the flywheel slips. Most flywheel slippage happens after someone has it off and doesn't re-torque properly.

Back when those spring-loaded thingies hit the scene, they were nothing but trouble. I snipped them right off for years with no problems.