charliechitlins

So, it's genetic....

A good thing to know: If a mixture screw is on the intake side of the slide, it's an air screw and opening it will add air. If the screw is on the other side of the slide, it's a fuel screw and opening it will add fuel.

Extremely cool! Very clean, tasty work. I just barely remember the days of the "specials" before you could buy off-the-shelf competition bikes. My first MXer was a stripped-down Suzuki TC-90. Bullfrog is a good name for a Hodaka where it rains so much. How about Muck Duck? Mud Spud?

The heat would probably make the immediate area slightly softer. More malleable rather than more brittle. But the heat is so localized with a TIG that it would have virtually no effect on the integrity of the part. If you're worried about welds weakening cast aluminum, don't look at too many swingarms

"wear" that is.

I've done a 321...I don't know if it's the same setup. If I remember---it's 2 gears that are facing each other and undercut in one direction so they engage in one direction and ratchet in the other, with a spring to push them together. The ones I replaced were worn, and it was a problem that was not unknown to GG owners. I remember it being a pretty straightforward job. You should be able to do it if you're relatively handy with the spanners. You should only need the gears and gasket. As with any gear that reciprocates (rather than spins), take a real close look at it to see if it's symmetrical. If the gears aren't the same all around the diameter, they will need to be oriented in a specific way that you will need to take note of before you take it apart. Also take careful note of how the return spring is oriented and how much pre-load is on it. Also...I'm remembering now...the old gears didn't look bad at all, so I put them back in to see if it was another problem, but they still slipped. So, it didn't take much rear for them to start acting up.

There's obviously something wrong with it. Just because it started doesn't mean you're any closer to fixing it. You have to shut it off sometime! How did it run? Did you do anything to try to fix/diagnose it?

3M Weatherstrip Adhesive a.k.a. gorilla snot

How about silicone grease?

Sorry your thread got hijacked, Tom. Did you get the bike running?

I always coat the whole deal with flux and solder up the 'solderless' nipples. Been making my own cables for 25 years without a failure. Made plenty of clutch cables, and they get a lot more stress than throttle. Thin cables I cut with nippers, no problem. Thick ones (clutch, brake) I use a Dremel with cutoff wheel.

It could be a bad ignition part, but I would first check if it's a sheared flywheel key. The change in timing caused by the rotor moving would account for the backfiring. You'll need something hold the flywheel with for R&R of the nut, a torque wrench for replacing the nut and a flywheel puller. Flywheel holding tools are pretty easily made from a flat bar and a couple bolts that match the holes in the flywheel. Male sure the bolts don't go too far through. and damage the stator.

When I was at the youth nationals and 3-day camp last year at TTC, the Sherco trailer was there and Wayne Thais and David Chavez were doing FREE repairs on all brands. Very impressive. Maybe the UK importer will follow suit

Wow...that's one strange shopping cart you parked your bike next to!

They cost considerably less than the other bikes. That money is being saved somewhere. They're great bikes, but I think you have to expect to do some tweaking.

Alright...I hate to say the simple/stupid thing at this point in the discussion, but..... Are you sure there is really something wrong with this bike? A motor with no load will rev really high with only small throttle openings. You mentioned 5mm. That's enough to make it really rev high. How does the bike run while riding? You seem to be talking about what it does at a standstill. Sorry if I'm asking stupid questions while you're pulling your hair out, but I'm not totally clear about what's going on.

There are as many opinions about oil as there are kinds of oil. If in doubt, stick with the factory recommendation. As for changing it...I was told long ago, "Oil is cheaper than metal". Change it often. Every 3-4 rides is pretty safe.

That trick definitely works to clear a plug that is beginning to foul. I've done it and seen it done many times. Seems to make the spark hotter. Why? No idea.

Good news, Martin! Will the '06 4-stroke be equipped with seatbelts?

Yup.

Tasty!

Tighten as many fasteners as possible. Except the top end. Especially the handlebars. ;-)

Infamous, more like.

Spray the inside of your airbox with some of that really sticky filter oil. If dirt gets past your filter, it has a good chance of getting stuck to the airbox instead of getting in the carb.

Grab the chain at 3 o'clock on the rear sprocket and pull towards the back of the bike. If you expose half a tooth or more, you need a chain. When adjusted correctly, the top of the chain tensioner should be about 1-1.25" from the bottom of the swingarm