charliechitlins

Whazzat?

I get it at the auto parts store. Lots of small vent lines in modern cars. Or remember to grab a handfull if your at a junkyard (breakers). The last bunch I got, I just reached into a Honda Civic and yanked out a fistfull. Bear in mind, though, that it is vent line. It's not meant to be in constant contact with fuel.

If I lived in England and was looking for a welder, I'd find out who welded Chris's Sherco silencer back together. (See the 'silencer re-packing' thread in 'Sherco')

My guess is the mod is to make some space in a tight place. Especially if running a Keihin.

I think it was important for Montesa to look like they aren't waffling. As if to say, "This is the bike we are building and we are behind it 100%. We don't need another." They're probably right.

My guess is that if you could keep it running uphill--like along the inside of the frame--you could do away with the reservoir. I can't imagine it would take more than 12-16 inches of tubing to hold what the reservoir holds. As for breathing--check if the cap is vented. My guess is that it has to be so the fluid will flow down. I think a plug with a small hole would do the trick. When I vented my mag case, I ran the hose up by the steering neck and curved it so the opening faces down, hoping that this would keep water from flowing in during rain and washings. This might be a good idea if you go with a reservoir hose. You can keep the end of a hose bent by putting a piece of safety wire in it.

I'm going to try to be there as a spectator. Maybe Dwain will have some good special prices. Last year it was $85 Dunlop rear tires.

Right. Later model Sherco. Just a 'lump' that's part of the swingarm that the snail butts against. Less parts=better. No parts=best.

The deal with the Sherco-type is, rather thatn having the bolt itself touching the snail, use 2 bolts to hold a triangular bit of aluminum wherein one of its points indexes into the notches in the snail. Now you have 2 bolts doing the job, and the piece that gets the abuse is easy to file/grind/replace.

Tasty weld.

Mine was cutting in and out at high revs. It was the coil. Aside from that, I agree with Al. I was amazed at the size of the hills that little 50 hauled my kid up...with the front wheel light!

Good to know.

YUM! Nice work!

Being that you now own the oil, put it in and you can tell US how it works. You certainly can't hurt anything by trying it.

I saw that on video. It didn't look like much. This MXer has been compared to a CR250. Actually, I have heard that Honda has bought the company.

These folks really seem to be getting close. Is a trials bike next?Electric motor-sickle

Anybody got any opinions on these?

The con rod moving side to side on the crankpin is no problem. You are right about the up and down being the thing to look for. You may, though, wand to try to move the entir crank side to side and see if you feel movement.

Check the price. You'll start liking them, too.

Better search the archives. Been done to death. Step 1: get yourself a big syringe or some sort of tool that will allow you to push fluid through from the bleeder.

I've had good luck with slime. It dries fast. Work fast.

It's ALWAYS a good idea to try a fresh plug. Gap it at .5mm NGK BP5ES Easy cold starting+wet plug+hard hot starting=probably too rich jetting

Nice review. This has been my suspicion about the 4-stroke. I'm sure the clubman will benefit. I'm also glad I have a valve lathe, seat cutters and guide reamers for when it's time to freshen these things up!

I find that most rattles that get better as the engine warms are from the piston. I'd start with the top end. Even if you end out having to do the lower, you wouldn't want to put a 5-year-old top on a nice fresh bottom anyway. A top end is also a job that a mechanically mediocre but CAREFUL owner can accomplish.

A friend with a body shop recently started getting panels that were labeled as being un-weldable. Being an excellent welder and a stubborn coot, he figured he could weld any metal. He could not get MIG, TIG or brass to stick to it. Very strange. Actually, I have recently come across a couple body men who, realizing that welds rust almost immediately, and it is often impossible to get access to the back side of a repair, have taken to using a new generation of "structural adhesives" (glue) to do repairs. This makes sense to me in certain applications, especially since I have seen a skillfully restored car have the rockers rust out again because the welds began to rust from day one.