charliechitlins

When I spoke to Chavez at the TTC, he was using the tire balls, and he said they worked fine.

The gearing on that bike is one year only. Some folks dropped a tooth on the countershaft sproket. A buddy of mine left his alone and does well in Advanced class.

I'm not sure how the existing hole compares to the 1/4" SAE coarse thread, but it sounds like it could be a good idea.

Here's something I learned on this BB: The best bike is always the one you have

I'm sure the 4-strokes will be fine bikes, if not immediately, they will be soon; and the technology will be impressive, and will make us motorheads happy. But I was just checking out the Mont photos with, I have to admit, a little tear in my eye. I'll miss the simplicity of the 2-stroke. I was just remembering that Sherco, in '02 or '03, was bragging about exactly how many fewer parts their new bike had than did the previous year. Even though some of these parts were as inconsequential-seeming as spoke nipples, anybody who is involved in prepping competition machinery knows that one of the most basic formulae is: Less parts=less problems. This is why we remove lights and extra wires whenever possible. It's why, on bikes with cable clutches, I always prefer to extend the actuating arm by welding in a piece instead of using 3 extra parts (extender, bolt, nut). I'm not blaming the factories, of course; I'm sure they're not doing this by choice. AND I'd even bet that a 4-stroke is even better suited to what I loosely refer to as my riding style. But I know all that clutter is going to bum me out. Oh well...it'll be a couple years befor I trade my '01 for an '05 2-stroke, then I won't have to worry about a 4-stroke until several years after that! While I'm here...how did "T" become the symbol for "stroke"?

That stripped thread is a tough one. If you drill oversize for a heli-coil, you have to go through the outer hole and make it bigger too. I don't think the threaded hole could be welded because it would be too hard to get to it. You might helicoil the thread, then have the outer hole welded and drilled to size. Although....that piece has to flex and take a beating, I wouldn't want to be the one to say that the heat from welding it wouldn't make it more brittle. I've never used one, but there are chemical thread restorers (glue). Loctite makes one, and they claim it makes a permanent repair that will take quite a bit of torque.

Check that torque spec and don't be a-scared to lean into it! The key is only for proper placement of the flywheel and it is made of soft material so it doesn't take the keyway with it if the flywheel slips. It's not intended to hold the flywheel.

Welcome, Zippy. Where ya from?

Stoodley has a good article on setting sag on the GG website. Your weight is right for the bike. I think it's common, though, to set sag on a trials bike at around 1/3. That could be why your preload is so tight.

I think the only pitfall is if the key slides back in it's slot as you push the flywheel on. This would put the flywheel out of true, and as some one mentioned, you'll be able to see it if you start the bike and look at the flywheel before putting the cover back on. Make sure you follow the torque spec. I can't remember how the torque runs on these, offhand. I'd guess 75-85 lbs.

Try cutting about 3/8" off the wire and screw the cap back on. Make sure you leave anough wire to still reach the plug.

I have used green loctite often on questionable tapers. It should keep rust, crud, etc out, and shouldn't require heat to remove. A couple raps with a brass hammer or drift on the shaft and/or on the face of the part being removed (as far from center as possible) will help break the seal of the loctite. The old-timer who taught me about Indian lower ends used to put a drop of battery acid on the tapers of the crankpin, sprocket shaft and pinion shaft before assembly. Thank God I never had to get one of those apart!

I can tell you that my '01 was a WR bike and it was ported. I haven't taken it apart to measure it up and check it out, but I can tell you it is a LOT different. It makes more power throughout the RPM range.

Try filling your helmet with grass after riding. Don't forget to take it out before riding again.

Congrats to Fijigas and Montesa. Viva!

You won't find a simpler wiring diagram on earth unless it's for a flashlight...I mean torch. It's a little abstract when looking at it on the computer, but if you print it out, bring it to the bike and start finding the various parts and noting what color wires come out of them, it will begin to look less like colored spaghetti.

I think you've got it. The idea is to make sure the piston misses the head by a comfortable margin' and doing it on both sides (left and right) would allow for checking if there are any differences in the shape of the combustion chamber that you would need to take into account. JTT's way should work just as well as mine. I just get a little nervous about putting anything in a plug hole and cranking; but, judging by his previous posts, I'd trust his advice. I would imagine that if you use thin solder, it won't even get squished. When I need to measure this clearance, it's usually because I'm putting together a very long stroke, air-cooled engine (Harley), and the rod not only grows a bit when it gets hot, but it also stretches a bit due to the heavy piston and very high piston speed. And I HATE doing engines over for free.

If you've really scored up the shaft, you could use green loctite (wick and seal) to take up some of the space. Good tip on watching for wobble.

You'll probably be safe if you measure the old gasket and use the same thickness. If you want to be safe, you can also measure from wristpin-to-piston crown to make sure the new piston isn't any taller. OR...you could put it all together with a layer of silly putty on top of the piston, crank the engine, take the head off, slice the putty with a razor blade, peel half of it off, and look at the height of the remaining half to see your clearance. The super thorough way to do this is to then throw out the gaskets and use fresh ones. I usually just snug the nuts/bolts, and figure in .003" for gasket squish. I do not know, however, how much squish to figure for o-ring head gaskets.

That's for sure! Thanks. And, yeah...more rake will give you more stability at speed. I remember my 175 fondly. I wish I had a decent photo.

Besides 75cc, of course. Are the frames /geometries different? How do they compare when ridden?

If your fuel filter is all plastic, I doubt you could boil your fuel. I have seen this on road bikes, though where the housing has metal. Most like ly you set the mung in your muffler on fire, which causes the engine to run poorly. Was it smoking?

Actually, I worked like a dog all summer on other people's stinkin motorcycles. I think I may have breathed too many chemical fumes and cadmium dust particles. Back to my straight job on the 8th. I like bikes better.

Clean the air filter, too!