charliechitlins

You should definitely be serviceing your wheel bearings. Once a year, minimum...thats if your bike stays pretty clean and you're careful about how you wash it. Just pop the wheel off, peel the little rubber seal out with a small screwdriver (even a paperclip), and pack in some grease. very easy. Not much for you to do with the suspension being that you have no linkage.

If that's the case, I suppose you could hold the lever to the handlebar with a strong rubberband (piece of innertube) while you crack the banjo fitting. That would make it a one-person job.

I think these a cartridge forks, and they're pretty complicated (a hassle). Did you try Ron's advice? In a nutshell: Loosen lower triple clamp, axle and fork brace. Bounce forks and tighten in that order, bouncing between steps. Make sure the tubes are the same height in the top tree, and when you get to the fork brace, make sure the brace isn't bound up by mis-aligned holes. If the bolts don't turn freely, open up the holes in the brace until it's free to jiggle a little. If you have to take the forks apart, one set of innards will come right out and the other will only come out with slight compression of the forks. Once you have the springs, etc. out, you'll have a clearer picture of how well they're sliding.

I don't think that one floats. If it did, and was worn, it would float (shake) more. As far as I can tell, the biggest advantage of a floating disk is that it does away with the very slight drag that sometimes causes squeaking when the brake isn't applied. If you don't have it, you're not missing much.

You could try sanding the tube with some #600 sandpaper. Even better if you can chuck it in a lathe to do so.

As far as I know, Boyesens are the only reed that has a 2-stage design---at least until their patent runs out---and nothing beats them for power gains throughout the RPM range. They have done this in every bike I've put them in. They definitely added lower end response in my TY350 and added noticeable low end to a CR125 and KX125.

It seems to me that most of the modern crop of bikes benefit from enlarging the starter jet a tad. And keep your hand off the throttle. If you can't resist twisting it, put your hand on the crossbar.

Sorry about not posting in the classifieds, but I can't get it to work. When I get the 7's, I'll have some size 6 Gearnes for sale or trade. Anybody try "offroad" boots. O'Neal has some with grippy soles that run about $120 new. Contact me off list: cffrey@mindspring.com

Huh?

Mike Komer has an inexpensive one at the Tryals Shop. If he stocks it, it's probably worth having. check his website

Check for air leaks at intake. What color is the plug?

I don't know about the "self-appointed" experts, but I'm pretty sure that AMA District 4 in NY has appointed Aaron an expert, and he's a damned fine rider. c

Yum! About a year ago I replaced the chain guards on that very same year/model. I wonder why I didn't take it out for a spin. Must have been busy.

This has probably been discussed before, ad nauseum, but....I think I'll be selling a bike or two and reconfiguring the herd, and I might have a few bucks left over. There's what looks like a pretty cool vintage club around here, and I just might throw my hat (helmet?) in the ring. I'm not interested in thumpers...not to ride, anyway...what I'd really be looking for is the twin-shock with the most modern manners. I've owned a TY175, but, as a lad, always coveted the Bultacos and Montesas...so I have unresolved Spainish bike issues. I live in the US, so some of the British specials (Majesty, etc) are not available here. Anyway...I'd like some feedback on what you all think.

I've often followed Marcel Justribo because I have one of his bikes. He was a pretty consistent top-10 finisher. Anybody know where he is? Funny how we concentrate on the top 5 or 6 and some amazing riders can get little notice. How about Comozzi?

BTW...According to @%@@* *@%@*, the 4-stroke Montesa will debut at the Japanese World round (May 22, 23, I think) piloted by Amos Bilbao. ...But you may have known this....

I'll alert the press!

Well...the thing you were turning did something! I haven't gotten my hands on an '04 Montesa yet, but chances are, if you were turning a screw on the carb way in and out without some fairly dramatic results, it was not the throttle stop screw. In general, the throttle stop screw is the larger of the 2 and can be turned with your fingers. If you turned the mixture screw and put it way out, start at 2 turns out and adjust it so you get the highest, most even idle. If it goes too high, you'll need to turn out the throttle screw. You will need to occasionally rev the motor to keep it clean, and you will need to listen very carefully. The range of adjustment is quite small. Make all adjustments with a new plug and engine at operating temp.

I love those little tricks. Glad it worked for you.

If there is a carb available with an accelerator pump, that would do it.

Might be a good time to start introducing a little more oil and see what happens. Is the plug white or brown?

I have been running old bikes ('36-'64) for almost 20 years with never a tank of leaded fuel. I use Marvel Mystery Oil as a top lube. Works great...smells great. Even on the 'later' bikes with bronze seats.

Had both of mine done. The stronger your thighs are before and after, the better off you'll be. Those muscles hold everything together. Bicycle riding is great exercise for this.

Cubster!! Lots of clutches stick after sitting for a week. Put the bike in gear and rock it forward and back before starting. If your clutch is dragging, make sure there's enough freeplay at the lever and try a lighter oil before you go for new clutches.

True! I assume that spark plugs were once much more expensive than they are now, because Champion used to make a spark plug tester that was a pressurized box with a window so you could check if a plug was firing under compression. I have seen several plugs that give a fat, blue spark outside the bike, but wouldn't run when installed.