g4321

If the screw head cannot be reached by using a normal drill bit because of clearance issues with the drill itself then one option is to borrow a dremel or similar with a right angle adapter. This will allow you to access the offending screw. Whether you use a cutting disk, drill or grind stone is up to you. Once you have the head off the screw use a mole grips to unscrew the remainder. Good luck!

If I could find/afford/justify one it WOULD BE be an every weekend bike! I know of three locally (Johns 2 and another one)but unfortunately have not had the pleasure of riding one to see how it compares to my TLR250 or Gollner TLR250 (sold as a reasonable proced alternative to the RTL at the time). The nearest I can get to owning an RTL is a set of RTL forks on my TLR250! The RTL is still my ideal trials bike aircooled, modern(ish) monoshock 4 stroke, before anyone comments I have tried a 141cc ish SY175 (stupid name for a bike with 141cc if you ask me - it should be an SY141 !) but fould it needed revving all the time and was not wholly convinced - lovely and light, good suspension and brakes but would have felt better with a bigger less revvy motor.

Two ways - Caustic Soda - search on this in Trials Central for the correct strength or burning out using a blowtorch. Then again the best method is to buty a 4 stroke

Spokes are generally cadmium plated, too much autosol and wire wool can rub off the plating leaving bare steel which is more likely to rust. Why not clean all the rust with autosol or similar, thoroughly degrease the wheel and then coat the end of the spokes with a lacquer to protect from further rust. OK when you retighten the spokes if they slacken off or when you true the wheel after you twist it you will have to relacquer. Spray the spokes with WD40 after you wasjh the bike if they are really prone to rust. There is the option of fitting stainless steel spokes but this copens a different can of worms altogether with some wheelbuilders advising this and others not (depending on what you want to use the bike for).

As John says TLM = two stroke, TLR = 4 stroke. The other big difference is that all TLR's (TLR250G trail bike excepted) are twinshock while some of the 2 stroke TLM's are monoshock - TLM260 for example. There are monoshock converted TLR's eg Gollner Honda but these were not produced by Honda. Have a look at the following website for some nice bikes. http://www.lewisportusa.com/Images/interesting_bikes

Notin my neck of the woods so if you have a set of disc wheels, calipers and associated front end send them my way, I will make good use of them on a twinshock - perhaps judging by my scores the word food better be deleted!

H - Heaps O - Of N - Nice D - Drive A - And its not a 2 stroke

Have a look at the 'competetive cubs' that exixt in your area - if you are unlucky enough to live South of the Border you are likely to find that ex Honda 125 22mm or even 20mm Keihan(sp) carbs are likely to be order of the day - since there is little to force the use of true P65 kit - (carbs either from TL or CB 125 single I think). There are some riders using Delorto carbs of a similar size. If you are lucky enough to live in Scotland or want to compete in the Scottish P65then the above carbs are not popular with the organisers, that leaves the Concentric (or in Johns case being too mean to buy one, an old Monobloc), the Concentric is known to give problems as you describe on the cub - the Monobloc - as John quite rightly says is likely to be worn out! Some of the top riders - Mick Grant (yes the ex road racer) being the instigator have been using Villiers carbs with good results - these are a simple carb but are only 19mm in size (unless modified) and do reduce the top end power.

If it is not a tubeless rim then a tubeless tyre WILL leak - the tube type rim will have no means of sealing the wheel well where the spokes go, in addition the security bolts will leak. You will be wasting time and effort trying this arrangement. Dont even think about trying a tubeless tyre on a tube rim WITHOUT a tube. Fit a tube to your tubeless tyre along, making sure you have a decent rim tape to protect the tube from punctures due to spokes and remember to fit the security bolts to hold the tyre in place.

Was in local LVLA today about registering my Cyclemotor. Chap at front desk was surprisingly very helpful, I presented him with form V55/5, MOT, dating certificate & Insurance all on frame no / engine no. He stated that it was policy now to inspect EVERYTHING but thought they may be swayed not to by a set of high res photos I took along of bike, frame no and engine no. I will know in a couple of days time. The only problem I might have is that the push bike the engine is fitted to is not dated but is listed on the certificate as a period bicycle. Interestingly the LVLA guy said that inspection could be carried out at home or at a local Police station. On purpose I tried to be a picture of politeness when I visited, asking for advice on completing the application form , it might help to follow the same route, by appearing not to know all about registration etc - since the guy behind the desk will know more than you on the subject (or should do!) and will have seen it all before - its his job! One thing to remember is you will have to pay a

Hopefully this will be of use to someone - a Cyclemotor is not the same as a trials bike - the only similarity is unfortunately most cyclemotors like most trials bikes have a t** stroke engine. I will let you know the petty beurocracy(sp) gone mad i come up against later on this week.

Have a read of the advice given in the attached image - it was sent out by the National Autocycle and Cycle motor Club with a dating certificate for a bike. I'm off to the LVLA tomorrow to see how i get on. Gordon ps the second bit is in the next post!

Be interesting to see if the 4RT is worth more than its original new price in 20 years time.

I know I am going to get shot down in flames but:- I have two TLR based Hondas, both are currently running X11 Tubelsee tyres with tubes. I have had problems with one tyre not seating properly on the rim in the past, by that I mean the bead partially slipping into the well of the tyre at low pressures. It never caused me any problems ie no punctures, I did remove and re-seat the tyre a couple of times because of this. The previous tubeless tyres I used did not have any problems this way. My other rim has not had any problems, the only thing I did differently was to put a tube in a new tyre and blow up the tube Hard and leave it in the tyre for a week or so before fitting the tyre. Why am I using tubeless tyres - basically because I am mean & can buy them cheaper!

Guys thanks for the comments - I am not intending to fit the brake to a TY but to a twinshock Honda which is not renouned for having (good) front brakes, especially in the wet. Supposedly it can easily be adapted to fit - Big Johns comment to me in the past. I know that TY pinky discs work well but TY pinky forks are too short for a TLR (I have measured)If someone came up with a low cost 35mm diameter front end complete then I would be keen but I may have the chance of an aftermarket TY disc brake to try - this was reason for post. There is one other advantage, it saves me the hastle of eventually rebuilding the front wheel onto a new rim since TLR rims are renouned for rot, the aftermarket Yam rim is bound to be better nick & the colour matches my back wheel ie Silver! The conclusion is that the brake is not very good reading the previous messages, one writer says they are worse than drum brakes, the other two dont give an opinion one way or the other. As for weight, weight is an issue, especially when it is unsprung weight - ie the weight of fork logs, brakes or wheel. Ask the question why are lightweight wheel fitted to race bikes? ANY weight saving on my bike would be an advantage, whether I would notice it in a section is unlikely but losing 2 or 3lbs from the front end of any bike is bound to help. Yours - in two minds over trying a disc Gordon

Has anyone eny experience of the aftermarket disc brake kit sold for the TY monos - the one which uses the original drum braked forks? It appears to be a Grimerca or Brembo Calliper & Grimerca master cylinder. Is the brake any better than the original drum and is the set-up any lighter? Gordon

Who am I to laugh about colour, one of my bikes has one gold and one silver rim, my fork protectors are made out of 40mm white water pipe & the tank/seat unit required painting when I bought/rebuilt the bike & still does! There is certainly plenty detail on Montys Hondathat bike! I must admit I was surprised how it looked wnen I saw it in the flesh. I would be the 1st to admit Monty P has done a good job and by the looks of things after its first outing in its 'blinged up' form is planning keeping it mint. Gordon

I have been nagged for so long by several people that I should give up on my old Honda and Gollner Honda and buy a lightweight 2 stroke. Well here is my latest 2 stroke! Well no-one categorically stated I should buy a '2 stroke trials bike' Thats it MOT tested now and proof of age in the post, it will be a trial riding this in modern traffic what with no clutch and little or no brakes as the 2 stroke oil fumes get on to the back wheel rim.

Have a look at the attached link - yes its push bike wheels but is an excellent guide to wheel building. http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html You can get away with replacing one spoke at a time but the 'inner' spokes will be hard to lace behind the 'outer' spokes. It is easier to build or spoke a wheel using a jig but if you are careful you can build up the wheel without a jig by putting in each spoke evenly so that the same number of threads is showing at each nipple then use either the forks or swinging arm of the bike to true the wheel up. If you do decide to build the wheel yourself measure the offset before you start, the wheel may be offset to one side of the hub, this can be done using a flat surface such as a bench top and an accurate ruler or caliper. Good luck

http://www.acfarias.com/index.html Have a look at his website, its slow but is well worth a browse I think you will find he was amazing people on bikes long before the Gas Ggas pampera was an unfortunate slip of a designers pencil. Look for the section 'In the begining' on his website, and note the total lack of protective clothing while riding a variety of late 80's trail bikes & road bikes.

Andy Looked at your photo again - I see the carb is quite a bit back from the cylinder head on a fairly contorted inlet manifold - will this affect the running of the bike? Gordon

Trouble is if it is pouring with rain the camera tends to stay in the bag!

Matter of interest - how much heavier is the TL motor than the original Rotax motor and radiator? As for a TL points cover - try Dave Silver Spares or look for a cover off one of the Honda 125 or 100 road bikes which use the same/similar motor.

By the looks of the previous photo its either been taken at the same time as I took a photo or its one of mine! Here is the previous one in the sequence! I did not take many photos at this section - or to be honest the whole day because it was so wet! Gordon