sportsawyer

Is your Repsol a 2ED (street legal) or 4ED (racing) model?

Have you adjusted the idle? I haven't done the Full Power changes on my bike (4RT260 4ED already has them), but the instructions say to turn up the idle 3/4 turn as a starting point, then adjust to 1800 rpm +/- 100 rpm (I'd suggest +100/-0).

An easy thing to check is the radiator temperature sensor connector. If it gets disconnected, the ECU will go into limp mode and only run on low throttle. Not sure if the fan connector does the same, but might want to check it too.

There's a "Full Power Kit" for the 4RT260 & 300RR street legal versions, and along with the change in headpipe & removal of catalytic converter / O2 sensor, a wire is changed to use a non-O2 sensor / full power ECU map. Look through the "Full Power Kit" instructions for the 2016 4RT260 at this link: http://www.montesa4rt.nl/php/download.php?INFO=../data/2016_cota-4rt260-full_power-uk.pdf Also, note the intake restrictor. The 4Ride parts manual shows this is on the bike. You may need to remove that, as well as check for a restricted air filter cap (and change if restricted) to have all the conditions right for the full power map. I don't know what your inspections are like, I'm in the US. So that could be a problem depending on how you want to register it. I'm hoping Montesa will start making a 4Ride 3ED model to import into the US. Remove all the lighting except headlight and taillight "enduro" lighting, maybe keep the odometer / speedometer console (or a reduced version with less functionality because it's not needed). Add a spark arrestor to the exhaust. Get rid of the catalytic converter, intake restriction, O2 sensor, kickstand switch, turn signals, horn, and so on. Sell it as an off-road bike and there will be a lot fewer regulatory hoops to jump through and throw money at. Better yet, also change the airbox assembly to use a bigger filter and hinged side-door access along with an aluminum subframe (more like other off-road bikes).

Check with nearby Honda dealers. If there's one that's sold some 4RTs, they may have one in stock. Otherwise they can order one.

It's a catalytic converter. In the 5th photo you can also see an oxygen sensor in the headpipe. The street legal 4RT260 and 300RR bikes also have them, and run closed loop. The 3ED & 4ED models are open loop.

Excellent. Now get out and enjoy.

You can access from the link I posted above, or use the following to get the manual. 2017 4RT260 Manual Link The schematic you want to look at is on page 6-17. Look for sidestand switch to the left of the FI / ECU block.

The 2017 4RT260 ED/2ED schematic shows the sidestand switch wired parallel to the engine shutoff switch. The engine shutoff is normally open, and it appears (from the schematic) that the sidestand switch is open when the stand is up. So when either switch is closed, the ECU is told to shut off running. If the sidestand switch is removed (and connector left open -- not jumpered), its ability to stop the engine is removed. Note how the schematic shows the sidestand shutoff switch wiring patched into the engine shutoff wiring, and make sure wiring is maintained to the engine shutoff switch if the sidestand switch is removed.

The street legal models of the 2017 4RT260 and 300RR have the same sidestand switch P.N. 35700-NN4-M10 as the 2017 4Ride. I also checked the 4Ride manual schematic, and like you said, it doesn't show the sidestand switch. But... the 2017 4RT260 and 300RR manuals do show the sidestand switch in the schematic for the street legal models -- ED & 2ED. On those bikes, there are "tap" segments into the handlebar stop switch wires for the sidestand stop switch. You can download the most current manuals and part lists for all 2017 models at the MONTESA MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR INFORMATION (Click This) site. So check those. Other than that, I'd suggest disconnecting the sidestand switch connector and putting an ohm-meter on the switch side. See what it reads with the stand up and down, and go from there.

At what point did you first check tappet clearance? I've checked 3 new bikes (two 250s and one 260) after the initial breakin. Maybe 6 hours of use. What did you find? All three were within specification. Adjustment required? No. After that, I check them every year or two, depending on amount of use. In those checks, also usually within specification, but the intakes may be on the tight side of the range. So I adjust them to the loose side of the range, since the intakes tighten. That's for regular riding. If you pin it like Fujigas for huge obstacles, or run at high rpm for big distances between sections, you may want to check more frequently and will probably have more adjustment.

Sorry, I meant the teeth on the inner circumference of each steel plate. Sounds like you had it figured out anyway. My mind must have been elsewhere this morning.

Yes, the tabs / teeth along the outer circumference of each steel plate. The idea is to make sure they slide smoothly in the clutch basket slots.

The important thing is to deburr the square side of the dogs if there are sharp edges or burrs. If that's done, I'd think they could go in either way.

Find an off-camber slope loose turn. One where you go down a slope, make a tight 180 degree turn while on the slope, and go back up. With rolling rocks and other annoyances to mess with. I found the newer 4RTs are much better at this. On my older bike, it was a challenge just to keep the front tire from pushing coming out of the bottom. On the new bike, there's not only much less tendency to push, but I can precisely steer around or use rocks as I choose while coming around to the uphill portion.

For the 2017 models, Trials Central had the announcement on 30 June 2016. So maybe in a month or two for the 2018 models.

Unless you never, ever bash your bash plate, put the rubber pads on.

Be aware that you'll have an extra plate if the plates were packaged for 315R / 4RT since the 315R uses 6 rather than 5 steels on the 4RT. If the set was packaged for a CR250R, you'll have more than 1 extra plate. I haven't had a problem with this, but someone posted a while back that they needed to do some deburring on the ID plate tabs that go onto the clutch hub. You may want to check your plates and lightly remove burrs or sharp edges if you have them. Torque on the big center nut and spring screws should be set to specification. See your owners manual for the values and clutch removal ./ installation. You can lay the bike down on its left side if you don't want to drain the oil. I've always just left the clutch lever alone rather than: "Pull the clutch lever and hold it with a suitable clamp" on manual page 4-43.

I've had a few Mitani plates, and they fit perfectly when new. No forcing needed. They are the regular models, in 6mm thickness. I'd expect this one to fit nicely just because it's a Mitani plate. I'm guessing you just laid the pads on there for a photo, and you'll glue them in the right places for installation.

I looked into the Mahle filter a little more. Future lists it as 30mm diameter. There's a Mahle filter for 4 different Ducati models 2007-2012 that's 30mm and looks the same as the one Future sells. The Mahle number is KL97 and it's a replacement for Ducati part 425.4.015.1A. On Ducatis, this filter is used in-tank on the pressure side, same as with the 4RT. So it should work, but you may need to look into it further if you're thinking of going that way. It has straight barbs from each end, so would need more hose bend (and hose that will take the bend) or a barbed u-bent piece. See the Future fuel pump assemblies for an idea.

The bulb is a high pressure fuel filter. It's there to keep finer particles that may have passed through the teabag inlet filter from getting to the injector. There's a similar Honda part on other models. Below is an image of one (taken from an eBay ad) that's common to larger EFI street bikes. This one looks similar to the part used on 4RT fuel pump assemblies. But it might be a little larger based on the scale. However, there could be some perspective error that makes it hard to get an accurate sizing in the image. Sorry, but I don't have a 16900-MBG-013 to compare directly to a 4RT filter, so can't tell you for sure. You may want to check with local Honda dealers to see if they have one in stock for comparison. Future Trial sells another filter for the high pressure side, it appears to be made by Mahle but I can't make out a part number. It's got a plastic body, and I haven't been able to look into it to see what the pressure rating is. Note that fuel hose on the high pressure side is also reinforced. If you do find the 16900-MBG-013 fits nicely, or if you find a suitable replacement, please report back. Thanks.

I haven't tried it, but it looks like the earlier bushing from the 2005-2008 4RT and Showa forked 315 models would fit. The sliders and stanchions have the same P.N.s between later and earlier Showa forks, so I'd guess the earlier bushings will work since diameters and depths for bushings would be the same. Race Tech also has bushings with the same dimensions. Inner Bushing: OD 39mm x Height 20mm x Thick 1mm Honda Montesa OEM: 51415-NN4-G01 (2009 & Later) Honda Montesa OEM: 51415-NN3-821 (315 & 2005 to 2008) Race Tech: FMBI 39201 P Outer Bushing: ID 39mm x Height 15mm x Thick 2mm Honda Montesa OEM: 51414-NN4-G01 (2009 & Later) Honda Montesa OEM: 51414-NN3-821 (315 & 2005 to 2008) Race Tech: FMBO 39152 P

May be possible, but I think it's unlikely because: 1) Pressure should be higher in the oil pump, which would push engine oil into the clutch / primary drive case rather than the opposite, and, 2) The oil pump seal is fairly high, above the transmission oil level (unless transmission is overfilled). There could be splash that gets to that seal, but it's also recessed and away from oil slung by the primary gears. Back to the first point, the pressure should be higher in the oil pump than the clutch / primary drive case. But if the transmission breather hose is blocked or pinched, pressure could buildup in the transmission / primary drive. That would increase potential for transmission oil migration to engine oil at the various seals or at the center-case gasket. Sorry... probably not much help.

Wyoelkslayer, Check out the Wyoming Motorcycle Trials Association website. There are several of the regular WMTA riders from the Jackson Hole, Driggs / Victor, Idaho Falls areas and one from Alpine. Look at links under the "More" tab to answer a lot of your questions. The closest WMTA event to you will be the Limestone event in August, it's between Lander and South Pass. The Whiskey Gulch trial mentioned already usually has several riders from your area. One of them has a nice practice area and other local riders practice at his place.

To find ethanol free gas in the USA & Canada, see: http://pure-gas.org/