sportsawyer

Valvoline Dexron VI ATF full synthetic: 29.5 @40C 6.0 @100C and around $8 per quart. You may want to try a Honda Dealer for the ELF HTX-740. Even if they don't know what it is, you can give them the Honda P.N. 08C35-HTX-740 and they may be able to get it. Could get the Repsol full synthetic 10W-30 in the US for a while. I bought some and still have enough for several changes. But all the US sources I found are in closeout mode with Repsol oils. I've used Silkolene full synthetic 10W-40 in the past. Seemed to work OK.

Make sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke. And only turn the engine in the normal running direction, don't back up to the TDC mark -- if you overshoot a little, go another 2 revolutions.

Try 3 turns out from all the way in (CW to stop). That may end up with a high idle, but should start and you can fine tune from there.

TRP makes a stiffer spring to fit the Showa shock, and it's orange. I have one on my bike, but it's marked "56.5 - 136 / 73.5". If you don't have the purple adjusting dial as in the above photo, it may be a TRP shock.

I use automotive weatherstrip adhesive.

That's true for the 4RT260. But the question was about a 300RR.

The Owner's Manual says (page 1-8): Switch in Mode 1: Standard Switch in Mode 2: Powered

The 315R manual shows the nominal spring length is 384.8mm. The 4RT manual shows the same length, 384.8mm. Neither manual lists the spring rate, so that might be different. But the 4RT spring should fit.

Unless you've replaced the stock kill button with a lanyard kill, I'd reinstall the bank sensor. If you want to remove the bank sensor, you'll need to jump the outer contacts of the connector as others had said. You could stick a fat wire in the plug cap, grab ahold, and give the bike a good kick. That should tell you if there's power to the plug.

It's a RH thread. Another thing I found with some 9T CS sprockets... The Belleville washer (PN 90501-NN4-003) can have a larger diameter than the CS sprocket pocket it fits into. So you might need to grind the OD of the washer so it can properly flatten and do its locking thing when the bolt is tightened. It may depend on brand of CS sprocket, but it's something to check.

You mentioned turning the idle screw out 1/8 turn, but did you measure the RPM with an electronic tachometer? Setting to the upper end of the recommended range (closer to 1900 RPM) may help if it's not already there.

I've only used the Mitani, so can't give an opinion of which is best. Search through this forum, it's come up before.

A Mitani or Termignoni exhaust system with titanium headpipe is probably the biggest easy single weight-saving change. This will save 2 - 2.5 pounds. If you need a sidestand, a Mitani sidestand is about 1/2 pound lighter, supports the bike better on soft & varied ground, and has a tip that's elevated to reduce snagging. Also doesn't go up on it's own, many don't care for that with the stock stand.

If you want a 2014-2016 style rear fender that properly fits to the 2005-2013 tank, there's a specialty item made by Mitani. Banyeres has them in black, repsol orange, white, and red (Reference Number: 862). Banyeres also has the same aftermarket fenders molded to fit the new 2014+ tank design (Reference Number: 863).

The 2014 through 2016 "race" versions (3E & 4E) come stock with that part. The Honda P.N. is: 80106-NN4-G30, so you may be able to get one from a Honda dealer. May also be able to find a used one that someone has removed from a newer model.

1. I am. 2. I will, if they're available in the USA. 3. I do occasionally, for difficult trails that are a lot more fun on my 4RT than on my regular Honda or KTM trail bikes.

I think the engine baffle replaces 11206-NN4-000 "PLATE, CAM CHAIN GUIDE". See parts manual Block Number E-11, Reference Number 5.

The Full Power kit takes engine performance of the ED/2E version to the 3E/4E version. The ED/2E have small air filter inlet, small exhaust outlet, intake restrictor in the manifold, different ECU map, catalytic converter, and so on.

You can see the performance differences in the "Full Power Kit" instructions, see: http://montesa.fr/kit_full_power_montesa_cota_2016

On my 4RT for trials, I usually use 1st, may use 2nd in one or two sections at a trial, and rarely use 3rd in sections... maybe one or two sections a season. That's using a 10-42 final drive -- one tooth up on the wheel sprocket. For trail riding with a 4RT, I almost never use 1st, and I'm usually in 3rd or 4th. Since you're asking about the 4-RIDE, I think the trail riding is more pertinent. And it looks like Montesa is using gearing changes on the 4-RIDE that will be good for trail riding, with very even jumps gear-to-gear. With a 4RT on trails, I often want a gear higher than 3rd, but 4th is a little too big a jump. And when I want something higher than 4th, 5th is way too big a jump (on trails, if I need it for the road the jump is OK).

Montesa France has it listed at 7999 € TTC.

I've had similar problems when it's cold and very windy. Not so much with starting, but with bogging until the engine warms up. I've learned under such conditions -- when the engine can be cooled down in a relatively short time by a strong, cold wind -- to leave the engine running, or restart it well before riding so it warms up to the fan coming on. Also carefully parking to reduce the wind aspect (and cooling rate) helps. Turning up the idle helps with starting. And I've found the DDM Idle Adjust Screw to be very handy. See H & D Racing http://www.handdracing.co.uk and look under "DDM Light Custom Trials Parts". When I installed this on my bike, I used a slightly smaller than stock o-ring (still seals) and smoothed the burrs off the spring ends. This made the action smooth, but it stays set. I can adjust the idle while riding / balancing through the forward-right fender hole. The base setting for the idle adjust screw is a about 3-turns out from full in (full in is CW until stop). Should start there and you may need to turn in a little to bring idle down.

The fuel line has a quick disconnect in the elbow. The fuel pump assembly is completely new, and is very similar to the fuel pump assembly on the CRF450R & CRF250R. It has a built-in pressure relief valve near the fuel pump outlet, so the external pressure regulator (that's attached to the injector assembly on earlier models), fuel return line and vacuum line are gone. The bolt pattern on the tank is completely different, and the sealing is done with 2 large o-rings with the same part numbers as the CRF450R & CRF250R. To remove the tank with the new setup, all you need to do is remove the fuel line at the quick release connector and remove either end of the fuel pump wire (there are connectors on both ends now). Based on the service manual pressure check procedure, the fuel pressure is higher at idle with the new fuel pump system. Part diagrams are now on the site http://www.montesa4rt.nl/, so you can look at the fuel pump / tank (F-13) and injector assembly diagrams (E-16) to see what's described above. Another update. I looked at a 300RR parts fiche, and the 300RR has a fuel pump from an HRC NSF250R road-racer (-NX7- part number). Interesting. The 2016 4RT260 models use a 4RT (-NN4-) part number. May be the same with some slight changes.

Cascade Motorsports in Canada has a few listed on ebay. Do a search on the USA or Canada ebay sites for the part number 52170-NN3-000, and the listing should come up. .

I've been running the 5.5" rise Jitsie fatbars on my 2014 4RT260 for about a year, and like them. They feel very close to the 5.5" rise Renthal 7/8" bars I use on my older 4RT, which is what I wanted.