pindie

Very good point!

HOW MUCH? I'd just get an inline filter!

if it helps I have an 07 200 rev3. It is on 11.42 gearing. It also has two split links. I thought someone had been fiddling with a broken chain. After reading all of this it is a obvious reason for the two links. Or is it a 1.5 link...?

Visit your local bearing and seal supplier. They will be pennies compared to OE prices. The bearing number is all they need to match it up. You might even get a higher spec one? In South Wales I use Hayley Bearings and Seals. They have never failed me yet. Even when I needed a kickstart shaft seal for a 2001 TM400 enduro bike.

If you struggle with you tube lower the resolution (I think it is this). I too am in a web blackspot. If it is broadcast on you tube as 360 lower this to 240 on the film at the bottom right hand side. The quality drops but at least you can see it. Unless you have satelite tv I don't think there is much on TV?

Leave them off! If your really worried, just prise up the dust wiper after a wet ride to let that bit dry.

If you want one fit one. I don't know if there are others but you can not have to much filtration! They do not stop flow unless blocked.

Ralphy, I think what your explaining is what in enduro bike circles we called "the gasp". That slight crack of the throttle lets fresh air in. Hot air is not what engines like. the throttle twiddle may help. The steady push of the starter is the four banger trick though.

Mines an 07. Is it common? I am due an oil change but from memory it still whines when fresh oil is in it.

Hi Chaps, When my rev3 200 is ticking over there is only engine sound. As soon as I put it into gear I get a whine from the clutch/gearbox. It makes the noise whether I am rolling or not. The clutch works fine and has a lovely feel. I am just wondering if the whine is normal?

There is no help for me watching that!

Welcome to the chosen few!

Your starting issue will be most likely down to technique. It will come with practice.

Hi Mike, Good idea. The more you spend the better you get. If you can rustle up 2k then it is likely a C&S kit and pads etc will be required but overall it should be V tidy.

In that case you need a new bike if you need 200+ cc

Hi Jake, You can download a PDF manual from the Beta website.

Vale of Towy M.C.C. ** Secretary Mr. Malcolm Dunn, Wernddu Farm. Johnstown , Camarthenshire SA33 5DL. Tel.: 01267 236054 Email : gerardinedunn@yahoo.co.uk Type : E, T, t, HH, SCE.

I can't give a definitive answer but at a guess the 200 barrel would bolt straight on. What other mods would be required could be minimal or riddiculously complicated. It may be worth finding out what makes the 200 bigger than the 125. Is it piston height or barrel width? You may be able to get 200cc or near it by using a shorter piston. There would still be other work required though to get it right. Do you need a 200?

Cable ties! Various sizes can be used to get you home. Large ones can hold a tyre in place. Small ones hold body work on etc if bolts go missing. Medium ones can hold components together. Always go for long ones as they can be cut short. I carry 2mm, 4mm and 10mm wide ones with me. I also have some really narrow ones 1-1.5mm that can be useful.

There will be a fair bit of wear on a

Cheers both. It does run fine on the 5 so I will be sticking with it when replacing the plug. Spain is a lot warmer in general so thats probably why they run the 7?

Its normal for oil to come out after cleaning. Do it a couple of times, keep pumping the forks and it should improve. Is your free play on the clutch at about 3mm? Sounds like its getting hot and expanding giving you issues. Change oil first as well?

Not at all. Take your time with proper levers and it is straight forward with you tube as a guide. Remove the wheel from the bike and leave it near a radiator (not on it!) or somewhere warm for a few hours before you start. Put the new tyre and band in the same place. Overnight is good. Wives don't like wheels in airing cupboards so put it all in a bin liner to warm. If it's your first time the warmth will make things more supple and easier. Once your good you can do it on the trail! Good luck. Take small steps and breathe. Allow your self plenty of time. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=tubeless+trials+tire+rim+band&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB4QtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D1sAD6l0ORVg&ei=5jH6Tt36AYay8QORtcm6AQ&usg=AFQjCNEYtMns6HTyvFjQuWpisWq6tMkf4w&sig2=XdLmmq0CQ4kSNxxYVvPC1g

You need the proper part or you will have flats all the time.

Hi Mike, I would say anything above 200cc would be fine. I'd say that a 125 may be underpowered if your 125kg? I might be wrong. A 250 would give you a good balance of power to weight (which is what it is all about) and not be to tricky to control throttle wise. I think the biggest issue you will find in that price bracket will be tired suspension. If you then add 125kg of rider plus riding kit then any suspension issue such as old oil or knackered seals etc will be quickly exposed. The springs front and rear are not made for a 125kg rider so long term you will find the available adjustmnent will not be enough to set the bike to your weight (if your fussy). My thoughts would be get a bike of 250+cc in the best condition you can find. Put in the back of your mind that as soon as you get a leaking fork seal/shock etc then have them re built with new seals etc and springs but ones for you weight range. For the exact specs you will need to speak to a suspension tuner to get the right advice. For general messing about you may well find that you get by perfectly well on normal suspension and just use standard adjustment up to the max setting. Get a bike, get out there then adjust when things needs replacing.