pindie

My mate has a JXT 270 and agin it is a very tough and capable machine. If your thinking of sportsman/novice type routes why not get this a upgrade in time if you need a more "trick" bike? My mate rides everything I do (I'm not amazing) without anymore drama than me. I have an 07 Rev3 200 which is light and easy to use and we have found nothing he can't get the JTX to do yet. The gear box probably just needs an oil change. If it changes gear on the move ok and there are no nasty whines or rumbles it's probably fine.

I've an IRC and if you run low pressure it soon turns into no pressure on rocks. X Lite for me next.

I use GT85 or three in one oil. I used to use motorcycle chain lube but it attracts grit and increases wear. My method is to always run the hose pipe on the chain after washing with the rear wheel of the ground. All grit and debris is washed out of the rollers. I then blat it up the road to fling of any major water (and it dries the brakes, motor and pipe etc). Lastly, before I put the bike away give the chain a blast of GT85 whilst rolling the wheel round, wipe of any excess if you're fussy and park it up. This dispels and remaining moisture and leaves an oily film on the chain with no grit in to increase wear. Bear in mind WD40 does not have any real lubrication properties compared to other light oil/water displacers. Muc off bike spray is awesome stuff as well for all over treatment but it works out expensive.

Why not see the worn tyre as a great way of improving throttle control and traction finding skills? This way even on a grippy section you get to practice for low grip. Come the winter when you do get a new one you'll be well chuffed and be a better rider.

:hyper: :hyper:

The other important thing with getting tyres off the rim once you have broken the bead (on both sides) is to make sure that the tyre bead on the opposite side of the tyre beads to the bit you are trying to lever is in the rim recess. If not you will never do it. One trick I have used until you are confident is to use a small G clamp to pinch the two beads together at the six oclock position. You can now get the six oclock section into the rim recess. You now start levering at the 12 oclock position. Easy.

There you go. I'd use contact cleaner to clean the mating surfaces first as well.

I think it is all very similar. Trials bikes just seem to like thin oil that is changed regularly - every 20 hours etc. If you ever have a clutch issue or notchy gear selection I'd always try an oil change first before you panic.

You've not seen me ride! As a self confessed petrol head I struggle being calm. Years of speed based sports do not help. On my own I can track stand and get up/over most average obstacles. Lay the flags out and aaaaaaaaaaaaaggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!

Go onto the Beta website and download the parts PDF. From this you will see if you have an o ring or other type of seal missing. Don't risk stripping threads in delicate parts.

Anyone ride this last year as a sportsman (older)? First one is this weekend. What have I let myself in for???

+1

It looks like a previous bearing broke up and was wedged inside the hub? I'd replace all worn, missing & knackered bits.

Thats a bummer for the Bult but that was on 100% castor which is like grease! Interesting point on the flash point of oils though and it makes a lot of sense. I guess thats why no one ever gets a seize using A747? The film is thicker and sticks/spreads better without burning off. However, make sure from time to time you give it a good blast to "clear her out" as is wise on any 2t motor from time to time. All the 2t motors I have used A747 in may have some deposits present (more colouration than what your saying) on stripping but there is never any wear. I take the point that A747 is hard to burn but it means it is doing it's job. Really it is a semi as it is only 20% castor. The othe 80% is magic stuff that Castrol or Honda won't tell you what it is. This is one of the reasons though that from time to time I run a tank or two of fully syth oil through the bike to help clean anything up. I have no idea if it works but I have no problems or engine part bills. Bottom line is - If you want the smell, smooth creamy power, no rattles, pinks or clatter get on A747 oil (other brands are available). I just find when on fully synth my bike sounds like there is loads of metal wearing and suffering. I change fuels to A747 and straight away you can tell a difference in sound. It is softer and lees angry. If I remember I will record two sound bites when I swap fuels and post them.

Sounds like a very good bike day to me. I got out for two two hour sessions this weekend. Gashed upper shin (just above boot) and aching. TOTALLY LOVE IT THOUGH!

All you need to do is use the self prime function. I use this on various diesel injected vehicles. I would have thought this will apply to yours one way or another. 1.Turn ignition on. 2. Depress accelerator to floor and release (engine not running, only dash lights on). 3. You will probably need in excess of 5 to 15 repetitions and you will hear the electric fuel pump kick in when the computer susses what your doing. 4. Let it whine and whir till it stops when it reaches pressure. 5. Turn key, start engine, drive off.

1. Always park facing down hill. 2. If no hill take 4 8ft scaffold plank to park on. 3. Carry a narrow "border spade" in the truck. These are excellent for digging in hard to reach areas. 4. Drop tyre pressure as required. 5. Always be gentle when using clutch and throttle. 6. Try a dab or brakes on spinning wheels. 7. Use planks to span ridges & ruts. 8. Take a long 2 inch diameter rope (25m). Learn to tie a "bowline knot" so you can always undo them no matter what load has been applied. 9. Be aware you vehicle has never been designed for "off road" applications. All tow eyes etc are not designed for the added suction that mud applies. Shock load these and they will snap off or wreck your vehicle. 10. Park somewhere else.

If the ones you have now are leaking have you tried a clean out using a feeler gauge or camera negative film? Works a treat. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=cleaning%20fork%20seals%20dirt%20bike&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CFwQtwIwAg&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DUSac5G4SI-U&ei=nWJTT7v0EoKk8gO_6PzvBQ&usg=AFQjCNHRveOhF9-phfDdnTfRqxcomr5Syw&sig2=LNwnWzBX4yrrhND4CISqvA

I agree. If you have the money it will be way nicer. You can tone down sharp power etc but it is hard to polish a turd.

Can't argue with that!

1 Stoner, 2 Lorenzo/Pedrosa, 3 Rossi/Spies

Oil filter? I'd just chnage the gearbox oil.

The Beta wil be very nice. The Montesa may be nicer for longer. Depends on starting condition. I'd go Beta 200.

I'm trying to wear out a pair of tech 10 motocross boots from my enduro days. I can't wait till I can get a pair of no stop boots and be able to walk properly and stand up on slopes. I'm fed up of sliding down. Alpinestars are the best though!

What oil mix are you running? Do you do road work? Lots of full throttle work? For this to happen something is not right. Most likely a lack of lube or duff bearings from new? I don't know what your carb settings should be but I'd check them out to make sure enough fuel mix is going through the motor to lube it.