pindie

You could clean the seals first and see if it helps? There on videos on You tube - Cleaning fork seals. This works for me. Whats your clutch issue? Have you tied an oil change?

You have spooge! The black goo is unburnt oil/fuel mix when the motor is running low rpms for regular amounts of time. This migrates from the barrel to the silencer section. It then soaks into your silencer packing material until it drips out as spooge from the joint you mention. Unless you have a running issue elsewhere it has probably happened under normal circumstances over a long period of time and means a bag of new packing material is required for the silencer and a modified use style of the bike will help. Have you got any other running issues or changed your riding style, riding location greatly? If I ride only in my garden without being able to get heat into the exhaust pipe I get the same after a long time. What oil/fuel do you use? All two strokes will create this spooge unless they are running at the optimum heat/engine load for their indivdual settings constantly. As soon as the heat drops to burn the spooge off it builds up and makes a mess. You will find loads about it on the web but unless you are having real issues I'd leave the settings alone and try the "clearing" by riding method first. a 200m straight line route is all you need to give the bike several runs under load with big throttle openings. One tip for the future is once you have re packed the silencer is always get the bikes exhaust hot by doing some good 3rd/4th gear straight line squirts on a 200m loop. A quick road section can help get the temps up and burn it off.

Good replies. Thanks guys. The bike was previously owned by a mature rider of +50 (so I am told). Maybe that owner decided the motor was running at low speeds so put the five in to keep the plug clean? It runs fine on the plug and if I get pinking (which I did think I did until I used fresh super unleaded)when hot I could change it. The pinking I got was more of a piston rattle at low rpms. I changed fuel type and freshness and it seems to have gone - pinking? I'll stick with the 5 until I get any other issues I reckon. I will take the bike for a steady cruise on a mix of some local trails and sections and take a look at the plug to see how sooted up or not it is.

My 2007 Rev 3 200 has a BP5ES plug fitted. It runs fine in my opinion. Should this plug be a BP7ES? If I Google it I keep getting BP7ES not BP5ES? Is there benefits to either plug? Any other recommendations?

Very clever.

I've always thought that one off or added to the front is like 2-3 off or added to the back? 8% can make a big difference - if your bike was 8% lighter you'd be very happy?

HAPPY XMAS

So so so jealous!!! I think the Ossa is the best looking bike around. Take your time to let it wear and settle in.

Sounds like a good plan. It might start a wear issue if you did it too long but you could fit the 12 and do a test ride? If OK then replace rear and chain??

Drain your coolant. Sketch on a piece of card your engine outline. Remove bolts one by one and place into cardboard at the appropriate place. Do this till rad 1st then engine 2nd comes out. Reverse order to put back. Ask Beta for torque settings?

A new or newish gbox can often just need time and a bit of wear. Each one is put together with tiny naturally occuring differences. The tightness should fade with time and use as bearings and moving parts settle down. I'd rather have a tight new box that will loosen up to be sweet rather then a sloppy new box that goes horribly loose and messy with use. As it is all your gears it may be down to an adjusment inside the box? As the bike is so new it will hopefully be a case of newness? If not you have done the right thing and got it back to the supplier. If Lampkins can't sort it through adjustment or obvious fault, it may be a duff one and be sent back to Beta for "analysis". Ducati used to suffer this kind of thing with bikes - some good & some bad. Their production line is now all computerised and each component is logged to a specific fitter and therefore any problem can be traced back to see who fitted it and was it done right. This helps if you have someone on a production line who is a bit naff at their job (Friday afternoon special). Interestingly, since moving to this kind of system Ducatis issues have dropped significantly. Either iffy fitters have bucked their ideas up or they have been fired? I doubt Beta will ever have the resources for this type of elaborate system but it may be down to a supplier (to Beta) issue or a production line one. The really good thing here is you bought brand new so unfortunately you get the privelege of sorting teething issues out. However, once sorted you will love it. Then it will eventually find its way onto the second hand market and be a very sorted bike. This then improves Betas reputation and may draw another new bike sale? More sales = more turnover, possibly profit. This may mean better production line methods and better bikes for all. Well done for taking part in this process. Good luck.

I'd reckon those white stripes on your bright red car must mean a 250cc+ would be no challenge? Seriously though, if you have 1000 to spend get whatever is the best maintained. Tight foot pegs, levers etc are a good sign - they must function well though and move propoerly in the directions required! Good tyres? Chain and sprox ok? Try pulling the chain off the rear sprocket at the 3 O clock position. If there is significant movement here ask for some money off as C&S a definite. Above all enjoy it and welcome to the club! You will soon be after an Ossa 280i.

Will you be doing long road sections at 50mph +? If so bear in mind the stresses that this may put on everything else. Tyres, bearings and engine will all get a real work out. What you could try is just add a tooth to the front spocket (to a 12). This will raise speeds a tad but also still give you the qualities of 1st and second should you need them on the trail. If you then later need to back to an 11 you only need to change the easier front sprocket. You will also be able to keep one chain for both. If your trail riding you can think of your bike as a 5 speed and only shift up the box from neutral. Just don't use 1st gear unless you need to? The alternative is get an Alp, Scorpa Longride etc - possible a Gas Gas EC 200 enduro bike? The EC is an awesome little bike that will cover all terrain with ease - even extreme sections. If you go this route fit a trials rear tyre to get serious drive on rocks etc.

I use the Putoline GBox oil. It's nice stuff. I also have used ATF. Both work fine. You can try adding a little more or dropping the level a tad to see if things inprove? Get the official oil amount and add or take away 100ml and see if there is any difference? Is your lever bled and has a bit of free play etc? You might just need an oil change anyway? The new oil type may need a re flush of oil again to remove any old contaminants. I went from ATF to GP10 in my Rev3 and the same happened - it dragged and was hard to change gear. I have since changed twice since then (all for GP10) and the clutch is super sweet now and all gears and neutral are selectable. I change my GBox oil every 10-20 hrs tops. I do a lot of low speed clutch use so feel it is worth doing.

Now were getting somewhere! If it were me I'd get new fuel pipe and filter and re route the whole lot and cut to length as required. You may well have had a melted fuel pipe and the heat has then re sealed it where it rubs? Like you say, this is not ideal and needs to be changed asap. I reckon if you do this then your issue will vanish.

The only reason I mentioned the pilot jet is if the flow was OK. The pilot jet is crucial to low speed running i.e throttle shut to just open. You mentioned it would run with the choke applied. This happens as the richening the choke does can counteract the blocked pilot jet and let it run. If you are still getting no flow then the tank cap is looking like no1 suspect. Is the inline filter horizontal or vertical? Mine sits in a horizontal location and barely ever gets more than a third full. I am not getting the problems you describe though. It's risky and may be a bit messy but to rule out the cap you could put only 500mls of fuel in the tank (so it does not fly out everywhere and go for a blat up the road with no cap fitted at all? If it runs sweet with no dying on 4th/5th gear wide open throttle tests then you know the fuel cap is duff?

Here here. Two strokes is all you need. Apparently!

Strongly pointing at a fuel supply problem. If you take the fuel pipe of the tap and turn it on, does it flow freely? Check the on and reserve setting. If your getting flow then you have a carb issue. Probably the pilot jet is blocked? If the flow is poor then you need to unbolt the tap from the tank and check the tank doesw not have welding splatter or debris preventing fuel flow. You may need to to this bit with a piece of coat hanger wire. Whilst the tap is of try blowing through it on all settings. If a filter lurks within take it out and clean it. Lastly (probably first though as it is easy) take the fuel vent pipe of the filler cap and check its not blocked. If no air can get in your getting a vacuum which is stopping the flow. Good luck, I'm now going to think about it further

Is the hub surface that meets the disc mounting points painted? If so this is the problem. KTM had an issue with this. The paint wears causing a tiny bit of slack. The bolts then shear. Solution? Rub the surface with wet and dry to remove the paint. KTM machine their hubs to remove paint from this area. Once done you should not have a recurring issue.

Can't argue with whats above. Some pads come with an anti squeal shim. Try the chamfer though first.

A smear of coppaslip on the rear of the pads? Shims fitted?

Thats why it's never worked for me I guess. No patience. I always went straight home and fitted it and....... crack! Bugger. Better get a new. Do as the man says. Weld and wait.

You can try but I have always found it goes wrong. I had the same issue on an XR400 I had. Steel carrier but alloy arm. The arm pivot hole split. It was welded but failed soon after. The alloy is a naff mix that makes a alloy repair difficult. What you could try though (which I didn't) is to have an enginerr build up around the whole area like shuttering for concrete. Once the area is filled it can be ground back to an acceptable shape?

Welding may be difficult. Starter levers are usually made from a weird alloy. Option 1. Budget for a new original. Option 2. Have the damaged section (presuming it ovaled out?) machine and a collar fitted inside to take up the slack. Option 3. Take the whole starter section to a machine shop and see if they can make a new section for the damaged part. My own experience of damaged starters is just save all the hassle and get a replacement. I have tried all of the above many times and everytime I end up having to buy a new one. If the starter is damaged from kicking, you need to modify your kick style. Think of a hard and firm push not an actual kick. Hope you get it sorted?

Power is nothing without control. Nuff said.