pindie

If you sweat or are in heavy rain the sponge gets wet. Air in the goggles gets moist and condenses on the lens. It still happens if air flow is low even with Oakley no fog double lensed goggles. The only way to prevent it at walking speeds or slower are: 1. Cut four 1cm wide notches into the foam top and bottom. One each side. This acts as in and out points for air. Eyes might water if on the road at speed though! 2. Take goggles off when in a section or slow period (no pun intended). 3. Use no fog safety glasses to allow max airflow. 4. Wear no eye protection if your the lead rider? 5. Diving helmet.

In my day job as an arboricultural (tree) consultant I provide reports and information for people who wish to use woodlands and areas around trees. If anyone has a burning need for professional advice relating to trees then let me know. If you can convince the landowner and the Forestry Commision and organisations such as the woodland trust you will still be able to ride at sensitive sites. Trials is very different to MX or enduro and as such trials tyres are far less damaging. Suitable method statements can be easily written to allow you to still use your fave site.

Contact Talon in Yeovil. They will make you the very finest wheel you could ever want in any colour and material possible.

Fresh air, get a sweat on, smell A747 on the breeze, test myself, break myself, break my bike, go home mentally and physically tired, wash bike, lube bike, fettle bike, take to practice ground, fresh air, get a sweat on....... you get the idea.

Thats a nice looking bike!

Have you tried emailing or ringing Lampkins? They do repair kits (parts) and they do a repair service. It might just be where the shock is it is outside of their comfort zone?

I think that sums it up. "a slow kick". It needs to be a full push of the starter not a girly jabby kick like on a 2t. On a 4t you need to get the whole lot to travel the the four stoke engine running theory. A jab will only get you two or three but you need all four. If you get it sussed it is easy peasy.

I have never ridden or started a 4t trials bike. I have had plenty of 4t enduro bikes though. XR 250, 400 & 600 DR 350 TM 400E KTM EXC 525 The common thing I found with all of them was hot starting (or any starting) can be a pig if you don't follow a strict technique. 1. Always get the piston just over top dead centre by using light kicker pressure - this give the motor a proper rotation and balances the mixture or fuel and air along with valve train etc. 2. One good clean solid full push of the starter lever - not a stabby kick like a 2t other wise you will get nowhere. 3. A whiff of throttle may help. Sometimes none at all. This is usually down to settings of the fueling and can be dialed out so a non throttle start should work every time. 4. If the bike is red hot and been on its side - lift it up, open throttle wide and do two clearing prods (full swings) on the starter. Find top dead centre and do the norm. I was shown this method by an old skool enduro boy and it changed my life! Never had an issue ever again. I once lent a mate my XR600 when I went away for a week. I came back and asked "what do you think?" he replied "four of us have tried every day to start it with no joy". First kick by me and it fired as normal no bother. Interestingly they all had 2t bikes not 4t bikes. When I first got my XR400 I snapped the starter lever (

I have never ridden or started a 4t trials bike. I have had plenty of 4t enduro bikes though. XR 250, 400 & 600 DR 350 TM 400E KTM EXC 525 The common thing I found with all of them was hot starting (or any starting) can be a pig if you don't follow a strict technique. 1. Always get the piston just over top dead centre by using light kicker pressure - this give the motor a proper rotation and balances the mixture or fuel and air along with valve train etc. 2. One good clean solid full push of the starter lever - not a stabby kick like a 2t other wise you will get nowhere. 3. A whiff of throttle may help. Sometimes none at all. This is usually down to settings of the fueling and can be dialed out so a non throttle start should work every time. 4. If the bike is red hot and been on its side - lift it up, open throttle wide and do two clearing prods (full swings) on the starter. Find top dead centre and do the norm. I was shown this method by an old skool enduro boy and it changed my life! Never had an issue ever again. I once lent a mate my XR600 when I went away for a week. I came back and asked "what do you think?" he replied "four of us have tried every day to start it with no joy". First kick by me and it fired as normal no bother. Interestingly they all had 2t bikes not 4t bikes. When I first got my XR400 I snapped the starter lever (

Agreed. The running sounds fine to me. I get out and give the bike a run. Use the brakes hard, give everything a real twist turn and wiggle. Any snags will show up soon enough. I reckon you have a tidy bike!

I have just thought - Ouch! You could drill a hole at the top and run a vent pipe (3-5mm carb pipe)sealed into cover) up the frame rail to the bars. This way when the engine is hot any moisture (could only be condensation) can escape but water not get back in. Anyone tried this?

Get a tube of silicone sealer and squeeze an inch out that is 5mm in diameter. Make a couple while your at it. I hang my gun up till it goes off then snip it off. Drill a 5mm hole in the case. Refit case to bike but tie 25lb fishing line around one bolt head - cut to length to reach drilled hole. Araldite the free end to the silicone plug. You now have a plug you can use when washing or riding in water but you can remove and it stays with the bike at all times.

You should find that as long as no pitting of bearing surfaces has taken place lots of change will cure it once the leak has gone. I believe the only oil not to use in the box is anything with anti friction additives in (read the bottle). Several changes of ATF will certainly get the milky stuff out. See if you can get the box warm to hot as well by doing a couple of road miles, this will help evaporate any other moisture. If a few changes does not cure it you really do have a leak somewhere.

Sounds like a water oil mixing issue. I have not seen in there before. What is all the peeling balck/grey coating? Factory finish or a previous "fix"? It should not go milky after a couple of minutes. there is an issue somewhere. Good luck. Some one with knowledge wil be along soon.

I had a YZ 250 that I "modded" a ramp style throttle for like the one you show. It work really well. For the cost of a throttle tube i'd give it a go? I used a hacksaw to carefully lower the ramp height so the tube ket the same diameter. It won't change the inital cracking of the throttle feel but it will stop more wollop coming in so fast imediatley after. My YZ was a pussycat over tree root covered side slopes after this mod. Previously it was a nightmare.

Beta, Beta, Beta, Beta, Beta - 200 rev3

Welcome and enjoy. Did you know your chain is on the wrong side of the bike?

No! Just air it out. Make sure you do not tighten to tight and stop it mating properly. On a clean and dry motor you can smear vaseline around the joint. As the engine get warm the vaseline melts and capillary action pulls it into the tiniest of crevices. (my wife is not called capillary!). This trick also works on bulbs for rear lights etc. No moisture ever gets in where vaseline goes when warm.

I agree. Start simple and get clever later. A new plug never hurt anyone. You need to use compressed air to clean the carb. Carb cleaner makes it shiny but won't shift a particle in a very small hole - not enough presure. Idle/tick over circuit prime supect and not main jet etc.

Pinking or piston rattle?

You star. That's exactly what I need!

Beta 200. You will wonder why you did not do this ten years ago. I am, and since changing I am nearly a really bad riding god. I had a 300 Raga before and now find that on the 200 I can tackle most things without getting in a flap over power. Put simply - it just works everywhere and you don't look for more power.

Hi Guys, Mine is worn through on one side. I have turned it round today as the side plate was worn through also. My chain is the endless type and is due for replacement soon. Any top tips or advice on the best new set up? Can I get a split slide block so I can change it before the chain next time? Best type of chain? Split link or rivet? Does anyone do a roller chain guide so it does not wear out? Thanks in advance....

Sounds like you may have an air leak. Have you checked everything on the intake side and the exhaust is sealed to the barrel properly etc? It only needs a tiny bit of air in the wrong place and it will possibly do what you are describing?

You might as well get it? At least it's condition will always help you sell it on?