pindie

Change your gear box oil. Run for an hour and change again. Use ATF as it's cheap. I bet it improves.

Surely this only applies when the engine is at full bore and burning all the oil with the extra heat created?

Anybody know anyone with any real evidence to support spurious claims one way or the other? We all know there are high tech fully synths but they simply don't have the queer old smell castor brings. I understand as well that you may not want to only ever use castor based oils in an engine that only ever ticks over - no 2t engine likes this no matter what oil is in the fuel as they all oil up eventually. No one has commented on bike age, maintenance schedules, genuine problems encountered etc. There is lots of copy and paste going on of various slanderous comments but none seem to actually has any real evidence. Any tuners or engine repairers got anything to say? In all my years of two strokes of all different types I have never has a problem. For me A747 (or any other castor) is a treat to use and everyone around always ask "eh mate what oil is that it smells awesome". Another thing is I run chainsaws on A747 at 50:1 and these can sit on the shelf for months unused. Chainsaws are far more picky as the carbs are minute but again I have never had an issue in running or starting. Come to think of it I have never had piston, ring, plug or bearing issues with anything I run the oil in.

The shell stuff sounds like a 100% castor oil like the old R30 castrol oil. That is a nightmare on any bike. A747 is only 20% castor, the rest is made up with petrolhead pixie dust and lovelyness. I reckon if I was going to have "problems" I'd have had them by now. All I seem to have is a well protected engine with no loss of oil film on crucial moving parts.

Another follower of castor!

I had the same concern which is why I asked castrol head office. It was their technical department who said for trials use 60:1. They did point out quite clearly to not use 50:1 or 40:1 as deposits will form - with any oil at these ratios. I run a "5" plug and have never had a problem? If you really have a concern why not use the A747 as a treat and use fully synth every now and then to burn off any build up if you get any. Personally, I give my bike a good blast up the road to clear it out after every ride. This is probably why I don't get issues as I get it hot at least once every ride to burn deposits off?

It smells nowt like the Ipone oil. However, it is a smell you'd associate with "older" motors when standing trackside. I spoke to Castrol at length before using A747 in a modern watercooled trials bike and they recomended 60:1 premix. It is the only oil HRC recommend so that's good enough for me.

75-80mm per 5 ltrs is about 65:1. I use 15ml of A747 per litre of fuel. Shake in a fuel can then add to bike tank. Maxima 927 is the same kind of stuff but is supposed to be cleaner. I have never used it though, only castrol. The Motul 800 is not a castor oil I think so it will be a Bees Knees synthetic. It will be very good stuff but it won't smell like A747. The A747 does leave a film on everything that means protection levels are very high. Don't be afraid to use A747 and syntetic oils but make sure you don't mix the two fuels together. If I change fuel from A7474 to fully synth (when going somewhere I may run low and need to borrow fuel such as a long distance ride) and run my tank dry of current A747 fuel (or suck it out). I then put 200mls of new synth fuel in the tank and run this through the bike till it runs dry again. It is now clean to add a full tank. Reverse the process when going back to A747 to treat the old girl! Just remember synth oils don't mix with castor based oils. For the amounts of oil in the fuels it is not an issue if you drain and refill and then run a bit through the motor to clear out jets etc in the carb. You do not have to strip your motor and clean it like some websites and forums recommend.

If you are able to remove a wheel then you can do the bearings. Have a look on You tube as there is a guide on there how to do it. Getting old ones out is easy. Use a drift made from 12mm threaded bar from B&Q. Cost is pennies and you have it forever. Be careful putting new ones in. They need to be squeezed/pressed in and not hammered. Use a socket or the old outer bearing case to use as a device to push against.

Sounding like time for a strip down?

It really is mighty fine smelling stuff. Nothing can compare. I always mix about 60-65:1 with fresh Tesco Momentum 99. I put this into my Rev3 200 and it runs much smoother and creamier power than with the Putoline TT strawberry oil. Bear in mind I dont do long transit section or full throttle stuff much. Any old stale fuel, I put this in the car tank or through my lawnmower. It makes mowing a nice pastime when you get a whiff.MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmm

I'm going to find a way I can work in Lyon for a week!

Lorry tyre. Tractor rear tyre.

its probably your big end going!

I found this on my Raga. I think it applies more to torque tthan horse power. The changes are very slight and you need to be very accurate to feel the difference. I would not worry about it. The switch is not a miracle button.

Check all gears when rolling down the road for noise. I had a Raga 300 and when I bought it I only used up to 4th gear on the test run. Not so long later I noticed a whine in 5th and 6th. Not long after that the shift drum split and the box was destroyed along with the cases. If my memory serves me I think it was

When you go back to riding just start off very basic. Get you body position right. Take the time to feel your way forward during your rehab. Do everything as slowly as you can. Get your track stand back and full lock turning sussed. As you develop the basics in slow time you will gain confidence. Resist the urge to go crazy. Take you time and it will all come back and you will forget the injury. Listen to your body as well. Any aches etc from your knees it is time to rest until your good again. Slowly slowly catchy monkey!

Superb. I'll order my next bottle! I find I use so little though a bottle should last nearly a year. Good to have the next in stock though.

Turbo

Worn chain and sprockets also cause the tyre to break traction as it becomes snatchy and shock loads the tyres footprint.

I thought your supposed to overlap then cut through both overlapping ends with a sharp knife to give you a perfect joint?

The original sticker on my 07 says: Off towards airbox. On upwards. Reserve towards front of bike.

Once you have pressure I'm all for the tie lever on and leave overnight approach. It really works.

I think the nature of the sport demands soft supple suspension so extra weight is not all that bad. Once it's moving it can be useful momentum! Unlees your clanging by bottoming out repeatedly I would not worry. If you do springs need to be changed.

It does make sense. The fuel will flow with any size filter (within reason).