mrb505

The later Pursang pegs are at the wrong angle not sure when they changed but the blue framed ones are definitely at a different angle

G'day Rick, See you live in the Hunter valley so you are extremely lucky to have the Denman club nearby they usually have 8 meetings a year, only for twinshocks and classics, four different lines to ride A/B/C and clubman so there is something for riders of all skill levels from Australian Champion to Beginners, everyone is friendly and its a relaxed atmosphere and there is usually a Italjet or 3 being ridden. http://www.denmanmcc.com/page23.php Cheers Ross

Strange my M49, standard set up, just touchs the mud guard on the exhaust under full fork compression while turning left, has your Dads bike got a tighter header pipe bend ? As my mudguard looks to be closer to the wheel than your Dads mudguard my M49

Here is a link to the story in Trialworld http://translate.google.com.au/translate?hl=en&sl=es&u=http://trialworld.es/&ei=FoU8TprJOsj3mAXg99HsBw&sa=X&oi=translate&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CCoQ7gEwAA&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dtrialworld%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DX%26nfpr%3D1%26prmd%3Divns

Are not all M184/A/B 74's and M185/A/B 125's Sherpa T's all six speeds

Early models up to M80 have top hat spacers both sides from there on they have a top hat brake side and a straight spacer on the other side, as well as the split bush that fits inside the fork leg

Hi Pat, I have a OKO 28 on a 325 Sherpa M125 its lot better than the worn Amal very good response from down very low, although I'll probably go back to a Amal to keep it original and really when they are not worn there is not too much performance difference The jetting is main 115, pilot 35 but as yours is a 24 I don't know if this would help much. I might try this 28 OKO on my M49 one day to see how it goes. Ross

When you do get seals make sure they are the Duo type as in having a lip facing in and one facing out, on the clutch side you can get by having two seals back to back, two 32x47x7 work fine.There is also a o'ring that goes over the crankshaft on the clutch side before the sleeve and sprocket/weight go on.

Try this http://www.tytrials.co.uk/blog/read_12974/date-your-ty.html If the link doesn't work it looks like yours is a 1976 TY250C

Looks to be a Alpina front hub as well which is 140mm instead of 125mm, later Pursang's had 125mm front hubs so probably both front and rear are Alpina. Mick Andrews seemed pretty impressed with brakes let alone the rest of the bike. I think Pursang and Alpina rear hubs are both 9 hole sprockets, the Puma bike probably has left every 3rd bolt out.

Later model Alpina wheel by the looks of it but could be Pursang etc as long as the drum is on the right side, should fit straight on if the axle is the same diameter, if not change the wheel bearings to suit, would need a brake anchor point on the swingarm and maybe different axle spacers Reasons why it is done is to get rid of the cable and a larger drum 140mm? instead of the original 125mm

I had always thought the steering head was parallel to the fork tubes but then I checked by sight, getting down on my haunchs one eye closed line the top of the fork tube to the steering head so they are just touching then look down to the lower end of the steering head there is a definite gap at the bottom looks to be roughly 2mm ,its basically using the same principle of using a plumbob, if someone held a ruler whilst your sighting you'd probably get a fairly precise measurement. I tried this on a TYmono , TLR200 and a M125 Sherpa my M49 is pulled apart at the moment but I'll have a look when its back together, both the Jap bikes seemed to have a bit less than the Sherpa the TLR seems to have the smallest gap. Ross

I'd been guessing M91 because of the tapered forks which could even be earlier with modified later axle set up. But just a wild guess a hybrid between a M91 and a M198/199 with heavily modified frame Whatever its a VERY NICE BIKE PS Was there ever a round barrel 325 Sherpa?

Engine and forks look like M91, frame not sure probably modded 198/199 be nice to see swing arm and pivot detail

Have a look here hopefully it might show what you need http://www.tytrials.co.uk/trailandtrialsuk/prod_131056--14-19-amp-20-Crankshaft-Oil-Seals-amp-ORing-TY250-Twinshock.html

Hi Andrew, Couldn't you put a bit more of a bend in the brake rod as they are not straight to start with or at least the one my shed isn't (yes its still here) or maybe a washer behind the shock top and bottom just to space it out a little.If that doesn't work maybe a bit of fuel hose over the rod so it wears instead of the rod or spring. Sounds like the shocks work well and your getting into some serious riding Cheers Ross

The most important job of the bowl gasket in the Amal is to create a seal for the pilot jet as it draws its fuel nearer the bottom of the bowl from its own secret passage where as the main jet is just dangling there in the main bath, which also of course supplies the needle jet as well. Could be that your bowl gasket has dried out after the bike had been stored for a while, sometimes the gasket will swell a bit again if it is soaked in oil (2 stoke should do) overnight making it useable again till a new one is sourced. Ross

With the slide down a worn needle will make a difference as fuel come up through the jet when it is supposed to be shut, with these Amals the needle + jet should be replaced regularly and more so on the 325's it seems. On the 250's these amals seem to work okay and seem to tolerate a bit of wear, maybe the 325 is too big a sucker for these carbys even more so when they have good compression and seal, could be why Bultaco went to a Bing for the 325's and stayed Amal for the 250's later on. My m125 usually starts 1st or 2nd kick from cold I use a similar starting technique to Big John as in tickle while throttle is wide open and get a good flow going, so it lets a bit of fuel+vapours into the venturi a quick determined jab on the kickstarter and away she goes. Sometimes in winter when its really cold ( it gets down to -10c here) once has started I need to press the tickler down occasionally till warms up a bit, my carby has the original 20 pilot jet and 3.5 slide. Its good to see you trued the mounting flange but have you done the float bowl as well,my carby had bent tangs on the bowl when I got it from over tightening over the years. I straighten my tangs in a vice by putting a small round headed screw backwards in each tang to protect the bowl sealing face and a bit of cardboard to protect the bottom of the bowl and gently tighten the vice till the tangs bend back in line with the face and then do as you did with glass just make sure not too much is taken off as the float may stick and put a new bowl gasket on as it doesn't take much of a air leak to upset these carbys might be worth also checking the air screw o'ring as these get hard and crack and even new ones can get nipped when screwing in or out. Ross

allso would a front wheel off a purstang m8 fit my 199A I think you need different wheel bearings as the axle is thinner

Long as the seal (o'ring) between the two halves is there and working its all the same just one is lying in the bottom of the bath the other is like a straw sipping from the bath. The good thing about the one lying in the bottom is that its easy to get it out and clean it, the downside is that it picks up any crap a lot easier . You can always borrow my mikuni again and give it a good test see if it works okay over a longer term then maybe set up your mikuni with similar jetting it might save a lot of guesswork.

Hi Andrew, This mikuni is a little smaller measures 24.8 and is marked as a 248 A2 wouldn't have a clue what it is off originally but seems to work fine on the 325 and 250 sherpa's, That is a very small cutaway I thought this one was small at 2.0 Yeah I'd love to come over for a ride one day

Hi Andrew How are you, I have the jet sizes for the mikuni that you tried of mine, if it worked okay you could compare the sizes to the one your trying now. Main 150 Pilot 30 Needle jet 193N8 Needle 4EJ4 Slide 20 cutaway With the float I think you measure the bottom of the float to where the gasket sits while holding it upside down, as in the valve being shut by gravity from memory its something like 22-24mm Hope this helps Ross

Try here, http://www.custgp.com/downloads.html

I've just been comparing my 125 to my 49 late model 2.2, I think they call it, same frame as a 80 I think similar dimensions to a early 91/92. The later 91/92 may be the same frame as 124/125 I'm not sure but they look the same without running a tape measure over them. Anyway the swingarm is the same length roughly 410mm centre of pivot to end of swingarm, where they get the shortened wheelbase from is that the swingarm is mounted further towards the front. If you look at the upright tube rear engine mount you will notice the later model is concaved a bit for the swingarm where as the earlier ones miss it without the concave so I think they just shortened the main frame dimension. The swingarm pivot to the rear of the frame is the same measurement. That would make the rake of the frame the same I think, just a shortened wheelbase. I measured my bikes the other day trying to work out why the 49 seemed to feel better (to me) both have 360mm betor shocks and the 49 steers beautifully the 125 is a bit twitchy I now think its shorter frame with the the 360 shocks steepen the rake a bit too much and maybe would better suit 340 or maybe 350 length shocks,(the originals measure 335 on the 125 and 325 for the 49)

And yours would be even rarer as its within the first 727 made that had the earlier frame, stonger but heavier. Does your frame have the recessed swingarm nut