tony27

From memory its DC Plastics who are making new guards so shouldn"t be too hard to get hold of www.vmxunlimited.com in Australia lists for $99 aus, same for rears

Get master cylinder at highest point & use small pulls to see if any air comes up line, have heard that putting cable tie around lever & bars overnight with lever partly back can help. Otherwise best method is to fill from the slave cylinder with a syringe & tube- messy tho

Seeing as you need to block off exhaust port anyway making a plate with the fitting in it & testing with the piston at bottom of bore is the way I'd do it I turned up a plug to fit in manifold whenever the carb is out instead of a rag & that would be the way to go if possible Good luck with the testing & hopefully you get to bottom of it

Hows the lever feel, does it have the normal resistance or feel disconnected? Might pay to pull cover & pressure plate off to check if push rod is returning fully & is seated inside end piece that forces pressure plate open as thats only thing that would give full slip as stuffed plates still grip a little Shouldn't take too long to check

I've just gotten the WES muffler & agree it's a very good, light unit In the states they are available from B&J Racing (www.bjracing.com) otherwise John Cane (www.tytrials.co.uk) in the UK gives very good service, cost from John was approx 60GBP + postage with being in my hands in less than 2 weeks

Have you measured the barrel, I managed to distort the barrel on my 01 not long after I got it by sucking a little water when hot. All appeared fine & new piston had no effect on the noise. Crankseals going hard is always a possibilty as cope says although I've started bikes that have sat for 10+ years with no problems

The address for trials oz is trials.com.au & the thread is very easily found when looking in the message boards You'd be surprised how many names on their site are very familiar

I'll have to admit having owned a 350 years ago with almost no chrome left in the bore which ran fine & still was when I sold it to upgrade a couple of years later

Couldn't agree more about make the sections simple so hopping not required & don't worry about balancing while stopped which takes a large amount of the niggle out of observing. Funnily enough the aussies have a similar thread going on their site at the moment and have done for awhile. Unfortunately there has been suggestions of running 2 sets of rules at the 1 trial which with volunteer observers is 1 more hassle that is not needed. I'd say ITSA's decision makes the most sense to me unless the trial is a combined modern/twinshock event where modern rules would have to apply

Where exactly on the cases has the piece come from, photo please. Are you sure it's not a finger off the clutch basket? Would explain the bang etc. Unless something has changed since last time I looked inside a clutch (never a paxau tho) the nut should just be mild steel because brass is not good at holding threads under the pressure trying to pull clutch apart

Maybe he's light & needs the help in kicking bike over that no compression gives

Personally I reckon running modern rules with sections being set to traditional, that is hopping not needed is the best compromise. I normally ride in modern events but can't hop so having to think the whole time is that a stop for a 5 or not is likely to mean I don't ride well Just my opionion for what its worth

You're right in saying that the diesels have become a very rare sight again, must be a few guys unable to afford to run their monts now because they no longer show up Good thing tho because last thing we need is the horrible things getting us kicked off venues due to excess noise like happens in mx

211 pounds sounds like a bargain to me , speed and sport have 1 listed for 477.55USD

Don't know if its loose nut holding clutch hub, had 1 loosen on either my 99 or 01 & in that case it had no drive at all due to it pushing on piece at end of pushrod as if lever was pulled in. The lack of slip and now hard lever has me wonder if the outer plate has somehow spun out of its groove at the top of basket or maybe even something coming loose & getting between pressure plate & cover.

Hi Rich I know of the millers header as bought a seat off them last month, freight was 2/3 cost of the seat so would want to make future order larger to compensate. Other thing is still means that I'd still have to weld to centre section/muffler Back to shim, never seen inside 1 of so can't be sure on how they look. Is the shim diameter the same as the crankshaft on the inside, if so then it would have to go between crankshaft & bearing otherwise it would shield the bearing from proper oiling Would have to agree with John on if there is no shim then don't worry, shouldn't be any real preload on bearings as that will lead to premature failure.

Definately same book, was only 1 I could find available If you want the opinion of a ty expert try feetupfun, he is a wealth of knowledge of these bikes in australia & gave me some insights into how they changed through the years. Unfortunately I haven't had time to strip my motor yet as have 3 day event at end of month to finsh bike for & still need to make new header as massive hole blown in it isn't repairable then have airbox to make. Strip of motor will be in next couple of months if time can be found. My comments on shim placement come from my job & reading of the different thicknesses listed on csmnl.com, if you really want to try for shims perhaps look at cycle-parts.com as they listed a couple of things tonight that I hadn't been able to find anywhere. Part number needs to be entered like this 322-24748-00-00 to work Worth a try

Just had a look in the reprint B model manual & it says place shim on left side of crankshaft then install crankshaft into left case. That would mean between bearing & crankshaft which is the logical place for it because you wouldn"t normally worry about accurate bearing to seal spacing. Hope that clears things up

Sounds like a dud source coil in magneto to me, try the points & condenser first then you'll need to have some readings done if not the cause

290 has bit more bottom end power than 250 so they probably sell 4 to 1 over here. Been a while since I've had a 250 but 290's have always been good on gas, can do a full national level event on a tank easily & would generally be last to fuel up when out trailriding with other trials bikes Really comes down to the type of rider you are & where you ride

Sounds pretty normal to me, all of mine have been other the years have been fairly cold blooded

Take it for a good long trail ride, preferably with a good long 5-10min 4th gear hillclimb to get it nice & hot. Most bikes that have only been ridden in trials will smoke quite a bit during this treatment. Have seen some betas continue smoking for best part of 5mins after motor shut off before. Cheapest & easiest method to my way of thinking & heaps of fun

1 trick that sometimes works is a bead of silicon in the rim tape groove just before you seat the tape, this in effect works like a instant gasket. Other possible problem could be the valve stem nicking the rim tape during assembly though probably not the problem

Thanks for the help guys, using local yamaha dealer isn't an option as they're becoming an endangered species around here. Not sure how close the nearest 1 is now

No.....Just do them as tight as possible by hand, I've never used torque figure as don't own 1 that goes that low, just an experience thing as far as feel. 72 foot/pounds is for crankshaft nut holding on gear. From memory flywheel is around same figure. Good luck