tony27

Hi rich, The airbox we made pretty much fills the whole area under the seat, had a A model to look but connector tube was solid & no filter meant no option as far what to do. Would have to say maybe 1/2 as big again, will try to post a couple of photos next week after the event to show just how big With a reed valve motor there should be no pulse coming back through the carb, theory of having large airbox was to give a large body of still air to draw from meaning less pressure drop when opening throttle Just got off phone with guys I'm travelling with & they reckon it runs very well now, revs well etc though maybe still slightly overgeared so I'll probably end up treating it like my sherco except for the steering which they say should be better than anything I've ridden before

A 2000 model bike is likely to need shaft replaced, there was a redesign around 2001 I think. If the drain screw is rounded thats not unusual & taking the 3 screws that hold the cover on will allow a look at the impeller. Apart from the shaft the bearings & seals are available from any bearing supplier, you'll also need clutch cover gasket Job all up should take an hour tops

Thanks for clearing that up, on another post about fitting a DT125 kickstart to a TY the hose is shown so that confirmed to me that my thinking was correct. Will fit a longer hose before I ride this weekend, dust won't be a problem, more likely snow in the south island of NZ. Bike was running seriously lean last night until a .55mm drill was run through pilot jet pulling out a lot of scale, no brass was removed though The airbox we had to make fills in most of the underseat space & is pretty much open on top with the filter across the top, do you think the jetting will be out wildly or in the ballpark?

There are 3 other breathers/overflows, 1 either side of throttle slide & other from bottom of bowl The 1 I mean is on the opposite side to the air screw & air blown through it comes out at the emulsion tube, drilling looks to almost line up with the air screw so my thoughts are some form of air bypass I realise these carbs are a little different from normal mikunis so stand to be corrected For the time being I'll leave as it is & if possible check some others bikes in the weekend

Check out TY Trials to find the year via numbers, my thoughts are probably ty250d which is 77

Can anyone tell me where hose from rear of carb on exhaust side should be routed? Bike is 250c & standard vm26ss mikuni Appears to connect to the emulsion jet & I assume this is the air valve mentioned in the carb specs, at the moment the hose is approx 100mm long & have looped around front of carb to keep from being kinked shut What effect does this have?

Have looked at fitting the YSS PD valves as suggested but have run out of time for 3 day event this weekend, bike not finished yet so need to travel to my interisland transport tommorrow. Basically a spacer/mounting washer would need to be made from details that are on their website which will fit on top damper rod & below spring. Preload spacer would need to be shortened by amount of washer & valve Hope to try this before end of year myself

From memory its DC Plastics who are making new guards so shouldn"t be too hard to get hold of www.vmxunlimited.com in Australia lists for $99 aus, same for rears

Get master cylinder at highest point & use small pulls to see if any air comes up line, have heard that putting cable tie around lever & bars overnight with lever partly back can help. Otherwise best method is to fill from the slave cylinder with a syringe & tube- messy tho

Seeing as you need to block off exhaust port anyway making a plate with the fitting in it & testing with the piston at bottom of bore is the way I'd do it I turned up a plug to fit in manifold whenever the carb is out instead of a rag & that would be the way to go if possible Good luck with the testing & hopefully you get to bottom of it

Hows the lever feel, does it have the normal resistance or feel disconnected? Might pay to pull cover & pressure plate off to check if push rod is returning fully & is seated inside end piece that forces pressure plate open as thats only thing that would give full slip as stuffed plates still grip a little Shouldn't take too long to check

I've just gotten the WES muffler & agree it's a very good, light unit In the states they are available from B&J Racing (www.bjracing.com) otherwise John Cane (www.tytrials.co.uk) in the UK gives very good service, cost from John was approx 60GBP + postage with being in my hands in less than 2 weeks

Have you measured the barrel, I managed to distort the barrel on my 01 not long after I got it by sucking a little water when hot. All appeared fine & new piston had no effect on the noise. Crankseals going hard is always a possibilty as cope says although I've started bikes that have sat for 10+ years with no problems

The address for trials oz is trials.com.au & the thread is very easily found when looking in the message boards You'd be surprised how many names on their site are very familiar

I'll have to admit having owned a 350 years ago with almost no chrome left in the bore which ran fine & still was when I sold it to upgrade a couple of years later

Couldn't agree more about make the sections simple so hopping not required & don't worry about balancing while stopped which takes a large amount of the niggle out of observing. Funnily enough the aussies have a similar thread going on their site at the moment and have done for awhile. Unfortunately there has been suggestions of running 2 sets of rules at the 1 trial which with volunteer observers is 1 more hassle that is not needed. I'd say ITSA's decision makes the most sense to me unless the trial is a combined modern/twinshock event where modern rules would have to apply

Where exactly on the cases has the piece come from, photo please. Are you sure it's not a finger off the clutch basket? Would explain the bang etc. Unless something has changed since last time I looked inside a clutch (never a paxau tho) the nut should just be mild steel because brass is not good at holding threads under the pressure trying to pull clutch apart

Maybe he's light & needs the help in kicking bike over that no compression gives

Personally I reckon running modern rules with sections being set to traditional, that is hopping not needed is the best compromise. I normally ride in modern events but can't hop so having to think the whole time is that a stop for a 5 or not is likely to mean I don't ride well Just my opionion for what its worth

You're right in saying that the diesels have become a very rare sight again, must be a few guys unable to afford to run their monts now because they no longer show up Good thing tho because last thing we need is the horrible things getting us kicked off venues due to excess noise like happens in mx

211 pounds sounds like a bargain to me , speed and sport have 1 listed for 477.55USD

Don't know if its loose nut holding clutch hub, had 1 loosen on either my 99 or 01 & in that case it had no drive at all due to it pushing on piece at end of pushrod as if lever was pulled in. The lack of slip and now hard lever has me wonder if the outer plate has somehow spun out of its groove at the top of basket or maybe even something coming loose & getting between pressure plate & cover.

Hi Rich I know of the millers header as bought a seat off them last month, freight was 2/3 cost of the seat so would want to make future order larger to compensate. Other thing is still means that I'd still have to weld to centre section/muffler Back to shim, never seen inside 1 of so can't be sure on how they look. Is the shim diameter the same as the crankshaft on the inside, if so then it would have to go between crankshaft & bearing otherwise it would shield the bearing from proper oiling Would have to agree with John on if there is no shim then don't worry, shouldn't be any real preload on bearings as that will lead to premature failure.

Definately same book, was only 1 I could find available If you want the opinion of a ty expert try feetupfun, he is a wealth of knowledge of these bikes in australia & gave me some insights into how they changed through the years. Unfortunately I haven't had time to strip my motor yet as have 3 day event at end of month to finsh bike for & still need to make new header as massive hole blown in it isn't repairable then have airbox to make. Strip of motor will be in next couple of months if time can be found. My comments on shim placement come from my job & reading of the different thicknesses listed on csmnl.com, if you really want to try for shims perhaps look at cycle-parts.com as they listed a couple of things tonight that I hadn't been able to find anywhere. Part number needs to be entered like this 322-24748-00-00 to work Worth a try

Just had a look in the reprint B model manual & it says place shim on left side of crankshaft then install crankshaft into left case. That would mean between bearing & crankshaft which is the logical place for it because you wouldn"t normally worry about accurate bearing to seal spacing. Hope that clears things up