tony27

Primary drive case has to come off meaning you'll need a new gasket & impeller is then unscrewed from shaft to access seals. Wayne's manual from sherco shows just how easy it is & should only take around 1/2 hour If you look at the photo on page 11 of the manual you'll see at the threaded end of the shaft 2 lines which is where seals make contact, replace if they're deep enough to snag your fingernail

I'm planning on giving my Jarvis a well earned freshen up in the near future & was wondering what peoples opinion of the sealed crankshaft bearings are regarding if their life is any better than the older non-sealed type

Hole is there to give a visual that 1 of the waterpump seals has let go, coolant if outboard seal & oil if in board. Easy job to replace & might as well replace the bearing at the same time & check out shaft condition

There was a 321 gas gas motor fitted into a late 80s rm125 frame running around here a few years ago, the owner said there wasn't a small enough back sprocket available to get top speed high enough for the open sections of trail but that it was fairly competitive anyway. Another hybrid around here is a 280 gas gas motor in a late model cr125 frame, takes more than a casual glance to realise it's not factory built. Owner built it to ride the sort of stuff trials bikes love & enduro bikes die trying to do so suspension is set softer than mx & top speed is not an issue, have seen what it'll do on a trials bike riding weekend & reckon it meets his expectations fully

How close is the nearest lake? Cheapest option is visit a bike wreaker & try to pick up fan motor for honda vt250f or similar, same model motor but have earth wire which you remove when swapping connector. You may also need to slot mounts but its all an easy job at about 1/5th the cost of a new 1 from sherco

Just like a Xispa

When I replaced the fan motor on my 01 sherco 290 a few years ago the motor I used was for a Honda VTR250 v-twin, had to remove the earth wire & change the connector to the sherco 1 but not a big job. Might have had to modify the mounts slightly by slotting them but not sure due to the how long ago it was. As far as I know it"s still going strong & as a bonus I've got a spare set of blades in my bag from it Hope this helps

You can guess who's found out the hard way on the water thing, also managed to distort a cylinder 1 time due to very hot engine & not properly sealing of the rear guard. Good quality oil helps with the life of bearings, never been brave enough to run 100:1 like some people though

Only 2 things kill bearings in engines on trials bikes & they're dust &/or water. First is caused by sloppy maintenence ie filter not fitted right/torn or dirty, take your pick. Second is caused by us setting sections in streams, if you drown it don't just put it away wet, dry out airbox & fit dry filter then run for 1/2 hour minimum to heat all the water out of the bearings As far as life of the rest of the engine goes there is no hard & fast answer to when to replace parts like with mx bikes, top guys do piston & rings once a year if they don't sell the bike before then but most guys who upgrade every year or two may never get inside theirs Normal strip for bearings will need all gaskets,crank seals & bearings replaced along with anything else you feel like doing & is not hugely expensive

My experience of the mitchies & IRC's are that a michelin wears well at expense of gri, ie harder compound. Dunlops(not used for a few years) grip well but wear quickly although still grip when worn so soft compound. IRC basically sit somewhere in the middle, wear better than dunlop & grip almost as well but grip better than michelin with wear not much behind Personally I use IRC year round with them appearing to be best compromise for me & would seem to be the preferred tyre over here

I've had ARC levers on my bikes for a few years, they're pretty similar in shape & length to the original mid-length ones. Had to alter the pivot position for the clutch by opening up the hole in the right place then sleeving back to get the pin to push central to the piston Main reason for running them is not to alter action but to keep crash costs down & they've definately paid for themselves many times over

That is the 2t

The ty I rode at start of june had been sitting for 10 years & wouldn't free using the rocking method so I expected a strip etc. Quick thing that I tried was while the bike had rear wheel off the ground & running pull the clutch in a few times before putting in gear & using the brake a few times until it freed. Was surprisingly easy

Most definately hole in slave cylinder, you'll probably find your fluid level is dropping as well. Shouldn't be too costly to fix but it's best to just replace rather than repair as keeping things round etc after welding is not always a certainty

They also don't mind paying as much for a bike with no motor as we do for ours. Had a look at a kit they use to go tubeless on mtb's & found out it costs as much as a rear tyre for us & probably still wouldn't cure problem. I'll give bvm a call tomorrow night our time & see if they can sent out 1 of the integral valvestem tapes to try but won't get to ride until my trip to states

I have 2 rear wheels doing this, 1 has new tyre & the other has only just bneen turned although was giving issues beforehand. New rimtapes & stems fitted with everything clean but still problems, getting expensive this spending afternoon setting a trial then only managing 4 sections

I tried some mx helmets to confirm my head sizing at a local dealer then placed my order happy that I was ordering right size. The Airoh importer over here doesn't stock trials helmets so I was always going to need to order online, think most places would be happy to swap for correct size if you got it wrong

That'll be the 1's, don't know why I thought they were excels. Any ideas on who list them on the net?

Wondering if anyone knows of a site with the excel rims as fitted to monts & ragas available. Sick of morads sealing issues & getting 4 sections into an event to have tyre come off rim after being perfectly sealed in the garage. So far I haven't come across anyone but am contemplating respoking my sherco's wheel if cost is not too expensive

I've had a Airoh ch3 for awhile now & find it well suited for me, comfortable & lightweight. From my experience Airoh helmets are possibly 1 size different to certain others, used to wear both NZI & Shoei helmets in 55-66 size small & Airoh is 53-54 size extra small. I tried a friends to get idea of sizing before ordering from BVM & had no problems on fit

People always seem to point to the 99 bultacos/shercos & say they were gas gas copies, not surprising when the designers etc had left the company to start the new 1 But.... they seem to forget that the motors look nothing alike with the gas gas being 6 speed & physically much larger Thing with the xispa in most peoples eyes including sherco's is that someone basically sent a sherco to china with the note make this please If the 2010 shercos go to a oval tubular frame so what, does that mean that only beta can run alloy beam frames, sherco has to run the current type & montesa is out of luck/has to run no frame as the others were used by someone else first?

Should be available from any yamaha dealer but be prepared to drop your pants & bend over the counter May be cheaper from your nearest scorpa dealer but wouldn't hold my breathe

Any idea who the rider is? Seemed to be pretty decent to me

Sounds like you've been given the wrong cable for your twinshock, I run a domino throttle & the cable runs between the fork legs like you'd expect

When the fan died on my 01 sherco a few years ago I replaced it with 1 off a honda roadbike from a wreckers, blades were the same & model type on motor were correct. Had to remove an earth wire & slot mounts but not big job at all, only works if its the older style fan that was carried over from the 90s & not the larger diameter type that the latest gassers run Price was from memory about $50 instead of around $250-300 for a new 1