tony27

Nice little technical question for Cope that may help a few people sort their jetting, me included How does the code for the taper of the needle work My carb came fitted with a JJH neeedle fitted & a spare JJF for fine tuning I have a printout here that talks about a few different setups with the needles being LJJ, LJH, JJH, JJJ & JFH, not sure where it came from My thoughts are that an brief explaination of where in the opening each has the most effect & which way the numbering system works could help with setting up these carbs & their cousins

That second recess you're talking about is to make sure the seal is away from the bearing. How did you end up going about removing the crank gear?

Jamie, I've run the vforce pretty much from new so can't tell you what the original reeds were like. Bearing this in mind my 290 is electric smooth with no steps in the delivery at all, 1 of my clubmates has just fitted 1 to his 08 rev3 which has a keihin fitted standard & he mentioned that its given more bottom end but can't comment on top end as he doesn't ride the big stuff. Only downside is having to cut the airguides off the manifold meaning if you take it out when you sell the bike that you should replace the manifold If you can find somewhere that sells them(have seen on ebay) they're worth trying if just for the trickness factor Cope, thought you'd say to drop the main jet size, will have a look on ebay tonight & order 1 of the 10packs to suit the 24mm as they seem to have the correct range The hose that came with the carb for the side vent is only about 100mm long with the 1 for the overflow being about 350mm long, won't be running them to start with & will only try once I'm happy with the jetting

As far as I'm aware theres no such thing as indoor & outdoor helmets, only ever seen the helmets we all use. Proper trials helmets from decent manufacturers are very safe, steer clear of the cheap asian ones. Have a look at some of the websites that sponsor trialscentral for an idea of whats best

Good news guys, I've just removed the adjuster from my dellorto & screwed it into the oko-same thread luckily. The original cable fits with maybe 1mm of extra freeplay Tomorrow on the way home from work I'll pick up some fuel line & a inline filter then have a go at kicking the beast over. Had a quick look at the jets fitted & so far would have to say they're larger than the settings for a keihin that I've got printed out here 128 main 48 pilot JJH needle 4 slide Will be interesting to see how far out these settings are

Can you work out if the fitting will push onto the vent, trim the extra off so the start of the bend is at the end of the vent & you'll have something very similar to what I made. Best thing with thin wall plastic is that generally it will stretch

I'm guessing they must actually have some over there, they sponsored the aussie titles. I think the importer is/was the scorpa importer & was lucky to pick up the brand when he did as it turns out

That'll be the mark 2 version if it turns out the hose is needed. The hole for fitting over the vent will have to be either stepped or a electrode made with matching taper Jamie, if you look in the same section of that site you'll find the right angled fitting I was thinking of trying. Only thing is not knowing whether the sizes are outside diameter or the more common way of labelling hoses on inside diameter, most likely to be too big anyway. Your idea of split vent sounds worth a try & I've seen something similar before

Stare intently for a good while & eventually this blue shape appears, kind of like those patterns that become a picture

Is that the blue one or the blonde one?

Quick play after work tonight, material is black acetyl which I had lying around Hole is 3mm like the vent & hose is located for 10mm, drilled 5mm until broken into vent diameter. Pushes onto original vent & can be turned to run hose where ever suits, shouldn't touch the muffler as its no wider than the float bowl I may remake it at a later date so that it locates further onto the vent Sorry for the lack of clarity, sent from phone to email which loses detail. Will see what happens if I use the usb cable

Put up as many photos as you can & it may give us a better idea as to what it was

Just had a replacement crankseal arrive to replace the temporary one I had fitted to the clutch side & its brown seems you can never be sure of what sherco will supply Next time I need to see our plastics & seal suppliers if I remember I'll give them the grey damaged(my fault) seal & see what they can tell me on composition

Must be my birthday, carb & manifolds arrived today with spare JJF needle & #42,45 pilot jets & #122,125 main jets to fine tune jetting. The carb top has an right angled top with the instructions saying the standard dellorto cable guide screws in if needed, this should be of use to those guys who have one with the straight upward threaded adjuster Looking at the vent I'm thinking possibly a fish tank fitting that Ive seen used for routing hoses on enduro bikes may be able to fit over it, bit of checking to do there Hopefully will be able to kick the bike over by the weekend & give it a try, thats the downside with having a fresh engined 290

We didn't get into the fine points of the caby carb other than removal of the hoses work wonders & that it wasn't due to clearance. I think the caby carb has the normal vents of any factory fit keihin, not sure if that means dual vents or not. Are the second vents normally drilled on the left/choke side like you've done to the oko? Don't remember seeing anything that side today I just like tidy/elegant, guess thats the toolmaker/ocd in me My thoughts basically revolve around turning up a outlet to fit over the vent to rout the hose at a 90deg angle much like the dellorto has, fitting the dellorto angled vent is also a possiblity. Both things will let me play with where any hose I fit runs Once I've gotten my carb & done the mod I'll post a couple of pics

I've got a couple of thoughts on how to get around the lack of room between vent & muffler(not as extreme as copes) to try, working in a toolroom & having a understanding boss helps. Have to get the ankle & knee I damaged 3 sections into our 3 day nationals right first so the testing will have to wait. Bike ran like a charm the 2 & a bit days I managed but still not sure the plug cap was the cause of the lack of spark a few weeks ago

Had an interesting talk with the original sherco importer here who is one of our top riders, he said that he removed the vent hoses on his cabestaney's keihin after the carb started playing around & found the issues were cured. He hasn't replaced them & recommends not running hoses if possible. When my oko turns up I think I'll not fit them at first & see what happens

I don't think the seals are actually black. The ones that I fitted last month when I freshened up the motor were a dark grey, placed beside a nitrile seal the difference was easily noticed Your point about pressure helping seals work holds true, we've come across this when watertesting moulds using air rather than water. The higher pressure from the compressor forces o-rings outwards helping them to seal where the lower pressure from mains water supply doesn't giving leaks where things aren't perfect

Not many aussies there either, mainly kiwis who went on holiday & couldn't find the airport to go home

Why spoil his fun, they only get dirty if you ride them

I'll agree with Cope about the broken off piece of case, if theres no cracks just do the seal. That piece has no real important function from what I have seen. Have a look at Ham's photo that you drew on & you'll see that only the pinion needs removing & the clutch can be left in place

Ryan would be your best place to get the seals & puller, that way you know you're getting the right stuff. I didn't get my puller genuine but is a buzzeti one made in italy, thread is the same as old bultacos which is how i found out which size i needed, think quite a few trials bikes use the same thread You can do the seals without splitting the cases just removal of the clutch casing & drive gear. It's not a hard job to do apart from getting the gear off & should leave you with change from $100

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...em=300355639223 Hope this link works, see its even in the right currency

Hi ham2 Had a quick look & would have to say if holding carb upright then hose comes in at 1-1:30, gives 1-2mm clearance on muffler. I have my carb so that the choke lever fits pretty much in the centre of the pocket in the tank, this also has an effect on where the hose runs

Is this the bike you had the problem with the clutch coming loose? Sounds like the piece I thought you'd broken off then has come off now, any idea what has been flying around in there? Look forward to seeing the pics to get better idea