tony27

In theory it means that you have to switch to reserve sooner but I've never had one of those taps or had a look to see where the pick up is for reserve. Biggest problem with the fix is that nowhere does it say what the actual length is meaning you could easily be cutting up a perfectly good tap Bentspoke, Glad you were able to isolate the problem to the float valve & also see what the smaller jet does through substitution of carbs, always easier if you can swap a suspect part with a known good one & work through things one at a time

HPC ceramic coating, have seen it done on a gasser a few years ago, not shiny though

Pilot jet won't cause it to die at road speeds, have you ordered the float jet as well?

Why would you want to, have you burnt off the chrome while cleaning out the header?

Use a good oil at 80:1 which is around 60mls per 5 litres, too much & you lean out the jetting & clog the muffler

Brand of tyre also has an effect, if you make the mistake of buying a vee rubber you'll need to be closer to 2psi. Have heard pirelli's are no better

These shots came off my phone & aren't the clearest, have better ones on my new camera but can't find the photos on the computer to upload

Just had a look at my warped barrel & taken some photos which I'll try & work out how to upload No real scuffs but there is a visible line which can be felt below the transfer ports which goes around below the exhaust as well, most noticeable by the front transfer. Also quite a step at the top of the ring travel

Did you check the condition of the barrel? I managed to warp the barrel on my 01 by getting it wet when really hot, changing pistons had no effect on the noise

I'll bet that was a nasty shock

For trials I use a camelbak classic which is 2litres but pocket is really only big enough for a sets of allen keys etc, all I really need For trail riding I have a 20litre(I think) day pack that has a pouch & opening for the bladder out of my camelbak, can fit a 3litre bottle of fuel, spare filter,throttle cable & lunch in main bag with tools in outside pocket. The waist strap helps spread the load more evenly so you don't notice how much you're carrying while riding, only when it's in your hand before or after it's on your back

I'd say a new float valve is on the cards if it's sticking, just looked at the standard carb for my 290 & it was also a #250-never had a problem with fuel flow while trailriding Are you on the throttle when it dies or backed off? I had a stator playing up early last year & it was okay while riding slowly(up to 3rd gear low revs) & travelling quickly on road sections but would quit when you backed off to head back into the bush. It would take about 15mins to get the spark back so my guess is that isn't the problem While you're trying your mates carb it would pay to also borrow his fuel cap & put it in your jacket pocket while you go for the test ride, if it stops again then swap caps to be 100% sure that the breather isn't slightly blocked

If you're used to riding a 99 gasser then the sherco will feel natural to you & weight about 10kg less

[quote name='copemech' date='Mar 21 2010, 02:12 PM' post='232244 How they do it in production? I was told they use liquid/solid nitrogen, sort of like dry ice which expands as it comes back to room temp which means instead of a pressurised chamber it's more likely a very cold room

Nope it's a michelin, got out to friends place & he said the problem was using lube will let the beader pop out. As it was next day it had dried & the tyre popped on easy. My vee rubber tyre I fitted next day as a worst case spare(no grip if its wet), used the beader to seat first side the lubed it up real good & lent on it while rolling & air flowing constantly, went on quite easy

Thanks Cope, never seen a beader climb out either. Going to a friends in about an hour to have a go with his, wish me luck. To make matters worse my handpiece had the centre break, the bit that holds the valve open but I never blow them up with the core in so there shouldn't have been a problem there Had a call from the beta importer while at work, he's going to bring in some of the DID rims as he's sick of the problems as well including a brand new bike with a small rim. We're going to convert one of my wheels when they arrive.

I'm meant to be riding mine this week end but unless I can seal a wheel and/or get my michelin to not fire the tyre beader out after swapping it to the good wheel it looks like I'm stuck riding a twinshock in a national level event Wife is telling me 2 years of chasing leaking wheels is too long & maybe it's time to buy a mont wheel Any ideas on how to keep the beader in place long enough to seat the first side? Never had a 2000 Zippy but have owned both 99 & 01 models, 99 was a 250 & 01 a 290. Stayed on the bigger bikes since

Masocistic streak?

Can't say that a pitted bore is a good sign of a careful previous owner or a normal occurance, worst I've seen/done is distort a bore by getting water in the engine when it was hot whiloe trailriding. I'm now into my 10th year on shercos

Can't say I've ever fouled a plug in a trials bike while running 80:1 with a good oil-Motorex powercross which claims to be usable up to 100:1 in mx bikes

I use a buzzeti spoke key, has 6 different sizes on it. Got it from the local shop for not much, also have their flywheel puller & tyre levers which I rate highly

Moto Central are the aussie & new zealand sherco importers but won't be the ossa importer for new zealand as there has been an announcement over here about who it will be

Beta springs are different, can't remember exactly how but think the beta ones are larger diameter Next time I'm down at the beta importers picking up the Ty250 to make some more changes I'll take the old springs with me to compare them

No such thing, torque settings are normally listed in the parts books

Beta friction plates are the same Steel plates are different, hub has splines that are quite different