tony27

That sounds like the 315 monts did, I think it was something to do with the friction material although changing to elf htx gearbox old was meant to help

As far as I'm aware there are no flywheel weights available for shercos, they have a heavy magneto flywheel standard & normally a very smooth delivery. I wonder if the timing has been played with to give quicker response I have ridden a sherco with a turned down flywheel which sounds to be something the better riders do & didn't find it unrideable

That doesn't sound normal to me, normally sherco 290s are very smooth- a lot smoother than any rev3 I've ridden although I understand the uk spec betas a tuned differently to the rest of the world with a heavier flywheel etc

There is a science to airbox design to a point, they can't restrict airflow too much & generally act to give a nice large area of still air for the motor to draw from. I have seen photos of TYs running a pod filter but they have always been in dry countries, the owners put a plate in front of the filter & basically end up boxing it in to keep some of the crap off the filter. The 250c I'll be riding next weekend had no airbox so we fabricated one that fills up all the area that the original airbox & oil tank took up, the biggest problem that came from doing this is that with the whole top of the airbox being open with the filter across it was that the bike was seriously lean on the main jet due to there being almost no restriction to airflow, disconnect your airbox from the carb & you'll see what I mean. Have a look back through previous postings & you should find the photos. The topic to look up is titled Airvalve on carb

Isn't the lowest price ever for gold knowb as The Brown Bottom, what sort of financial wizard announces that you're going to sell off half your gold reserves months in advance & then still go through with it when the price has dropped so suddenly? Didn't sound like very good management to me

We have that as well but maybe he doesn't like worms , or perhaps it's because he's english & prefers Why do today what can be done tomorrow

Thats how i read it, he's trying to make the C model snappier from what i can tell

I know what you mean when you say you need it now, I got rung up last night about could I find/get a shock for a beta sidecar before next thursday. Normally stuff from the UK gets here in about a week-sometimes faster than from oz, but I still think he's leaving things a bit late

Got our wires crossed about where on the outfit the shock is for, it's to go in the bike itself. The bike is a 99 techno They have used a standard shock with heavier spring which works well for a length of time before the spring overpowers the valving, any ideas on what he can do quickly. What changes to the valving need doing or is there a shock available off the shelf that will do the trick? Any help would be much appreciated

I tried using something similar when chasing a leak that only occured while riding & it does clog the valve- escaping air must be a leak. Also makes a disgusting mess when you want to change tyres

From memory thats the way they are, the cylinders are different which makes the a model snappier

I've just been asked by the beta importer over here to ask where to get a shock that will cope with being used on the chair, length needs to be 300mm between centres Any help would be much appreciated as he needs it urgently

As Stork says the windings are nothing special so should be reasonable to have rewound unlike a modern stator with it's multiple wire diameters on the same coil. I have seen new coils for sale on ebay before & possibly from a guy this side of the ditch but I can't remember his site, will see if I can find it & post the address up Just found it http://www.plenternz.com I see he's listing jets for 74 but no primary coils, Feetupfun may be able to tell us what is interchangeable. Had a look at cmsnl.com to compare part numbers for dt's of the same age & the numbers are the same but for the first 3 digits which are possibly only for model identification, might be worth asking a dealer or similar if thats the case

Going on how many people seem to be using the flatslide version on their modern bikes(me included) they're a good carb, wondre if I should use the 28mm from my sherco or give the 30mm powerjet version a try?

Definately the swingarm, wonder how long they last for him? Van full following him around maybe or just given new bike every month?

I thought you guys ran twinshock rather than pre75 for trials so it shouldn't be a problem, might try the 1 off my sherco on the 250c next weekend if it'll fit to see what happens

If it stopped sparking when hot & restarts when fully cold again you've got the insulation on the windings breaking down, a rewind or another stator is the only fix

Are you coming up to Kaikoura for the 3 day? I'll have my/John Lawton's 250c there & if you haven't got it sorted by then we'll see what can be sorted Tony

Think you'll find parts for the TK carb are pretty thin on the ground anywhere, are you fitting a round or flatslide OKO?

Yep should keep the points & flywheel from overheating

The specs are for the standard RL250, the online parts books at CMSNL are great for finding out these sorts of things

The spherical bearings in the shock push out from 1 side only, the shock has a step that the bearing pushes up to. If you plan on greasing the bearing you only need to rotate the inner in the bush until it's at right angles, removing the bearing normally damages it

The 09 racing catalogue lists both a master cylinder & also friction plates- ref-1390 for the plates, splatshop list them at 9.08gbp which I'm guessing is per plate Wonder what the difference is to the standard plates?

Check the condition of the carb connectors as well for cracks & then spray them with soapy water while the bike is running to see if they have any leaks Just looked on CMSNL.com at the parts list for the 74-75 standard model & it says 30pilot,145main. I wouldn't expect the beamish to be much different

Bearings are HK1616 2RS & HK1416 2RS There have been a few of us thinking about converting to aluminium bronze bushes for the dogbones but as far as I know none of us have done it. Care to be our guinea pig? Best thing I've done as far as the dogbones go is to make a set of sleeves out of tool steel & have them nitrided, I've always thought the hardening of the standard sleeves to be a bit poor Your squeak could also be a dry lower shock bearing which you don't want to have to replace because they're not cheap