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Running a smaller front sprocket also seems to cause more wear, you'll go through more than 1 front before the rear is worn out
Buy a set of oversize snail cams, the originals won't let you get full movement of the axle. I bought a jitsie set for mine which make quite a difference, pretty sure there's a few other manufacturers doing them as well
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Did I read it correctly that the top guys(TR1) are last to start & the first to enter the first section had waited 1 & 1/2 hours then were almost out of time by the time they got to the second section?
Seems like a problem waiting to happen
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Nope the kettle was the suzuki gt750 also known as the water buffalo or waterbus.
That bike uses kawasaki h1 or h2 top ends, those things were known as the widowmaker due to having all the handling of a bed with a hinge in the middle
Theres a video on you-tube of a nicely done maico mx bike fitted with one of those engines including expansion chambers which would be interesting to ride
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Why were you using a iris chain, they're the only chains I've ever heard let go that badly
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Pretty sure thats not the site I found, I'll have another look & see if I can find the correct site
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Hopefully get to see 1 in action at our club event on sunday, first shipment arrived in the country last week
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Because they need someone to pay the bills & no trials manufacturer sells enough bikes to have the money needed
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As far as I can tell from the photo there isn't a plastic gear back there, you should be able get the spring free by rotating the clutch backwards
As yamty175 says, a air impact gun is the easiest way to undo the nut. Trying to get the nut undone using the back brake normally doesn't work
Are you sure you didn't miss seating something properly when reassembling things
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Good to hear you got them fixed, engineering tutors love it when you can bring something in thats slightly out of the ordinary to use as a demonstration.
Hopefully you get an apprenticeship with a firm whose boss lets you do home jobs, you learn so much more that way
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From memory my 05 forks run the oil 130mm from the top of the leg with the springs out & forks compressed, much more accurate than using a set amount of oil
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A year or so ago I came across a site-possibly french that had carbonfibre sidecovers, not sure if it was complete clutch or just the oil pump cover, definately had the ignition cover. Haven't managed to find it since so can't help with a link
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Very easy to find on ebay, seems to be lots of them listed in the us
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Readings for leonelli stators are on splatshop's site
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/stator-repair.html
If you do need to replace it I can't fault Chris for his service, took less than 2 weeks to get a replacement to NZ including the time for the mine to get to him
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Chris at Splatshop should be able to sort you out
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-06-fork-plug-left.html
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The friction plates may be the same as in a beta but nothing else fits, from memory the springs are completely different diameter & length
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The reason for turning off the fuel would be the possibility that the up & down motion could cause the floats to move towards the bottom of the bowl & cause the float valve to open leading to the engine flooding.
Or I could be completely wrong
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What do you mean by checking the stator, if you mean what should the resistance readings be then have a look at splatshop's site or search through some of the threads here as it's been posted a few times before
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The 28mm is a lot different to the 33mm ones that get talked about on vmx forums, never had any real issues using a 26mm on my CZ trials bike that I started on but the 33mm originally fitted to my 73 380 vmx bike is a completely different story- prone to flooding & really hard to set up & now sitting on a shelf
The 28mm carb you've got should be ok but parts would be harder to find than a mikuni etc
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Last stator I got was separate, sherco must have finally wised up. Lots of the english places advertise just the stator now
Stator specs are on splatshops site & posted quite a few times up here if you do a bit of searching
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Thanks for posting that up David, I was sure there would be a lot of interest in what you had done
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You're talking about a 250? I had a good ride on 1 midway through last year & found it a lot zippier than my 290 & I came to the conclusion that it would be harder work. Haven't tried a new 290 though
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Try tucking all the wires away without the kill switch connected if you're using a button instead of the standard switchgear, if the problem is still there then it sounds like you've got a broken wire which makes intermittent contact
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The pegs you're thinking of are called pivotpegz
http://www.pivotpegz.net/
These are what I use, have tried with both the pins & brass domes, brass is my preference
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-Duralumin-Trials-Wide-Footpegs-Footrests-Y-Type-/320639691646?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4aa79d6b7e
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Don't know that I'd blame that on the group b cars, isn't it still portugal that has stages cancelled due to the spectators?
Can you imagine just how scary the cars would have been nowadays if group b hadn't been killed, the drivetrain improvements etc that have occurred since would allow alot more of the power to be used
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Wasn't me, mine is bent a little bit though-sits away from the pipe by about 10mm
I don't want ot even contemplate what the lever is worth over here now that you pay for freight to australia then more to NZ, probably not much change from $400
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