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Hopefully get to see 1 in action at our club event on sunday, first shipment arrived in the country last week
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Because they need someone to pay the bills & no trials manufacturer sells enough bikes to have the money needed
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As far as I can tell from the photo there isn't a plastic gear back there, you should be able get the spring free by rotating the clutch backwards
As yamty175 says, a air impact gun is the easiest way to undo the nut. Trying to get the nut undone using the back brake normally doesn't work
Are you sure you didn't miss seating something properly when reassembling things
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Good to hear you got them fixed, engineering tutors love it when you can bring something in thats slightly out of the ordinary to use as a demonstration.
Hopefully you get an apprenticeship with a firm whose boss lets you do home jobs, you learn so much more that way
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From memory my 05 forks run the oil 130mm from the top of the leg with the springs out & forks compressed, much more accurate than using a set amount of oil
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A year or so ago I came across a site-possibly french that had carbonfibre sidecovers, not sure if it was complete clutch or just the oil pump cover, definately had the ignition cover. Haven't managed to find it since so can't help with a link
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Very easy to find on ebay, seems to be lots of them listed in the us
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Readings for leonelli stators are on splatshop's site
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/stator-repair.html
If you do need to replace it I can't fault Chris for his service, took less than 2 weeks to get a replacement to NZ including the time for the mine to get to him
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Chris at Splatshop should be able to sort you out
http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-06-fork-plug-left.html
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The friction plates may be the same as in a beta but nothing else fits, from memory the springs are completely different diameter & length
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The reason for turning off the fuel would be the possibility that the up & down motion could cause the floats to move towards the bottom of the bowl & cause the float valve to open leading to the engine flooding.
Or I could be completely wrong
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What do you mean by checking the stator, if you mean what should the resistance readings be then have a look at splatshop's site or search through some of the threads here as it's been posted a few times before
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The 28mm is a lot different to the 33mm ones that get talked about on vmx forums, never had any real issues using a 26mm on my CZ trials bike that I started on but the 33mm originally fitted to my 73 380 vmx bike is a completely different story- prone to flooding & really hard to set up & now sitting on a shelf
The 28mm carb you've got should be ok but parts would be harder to find than a mikuni etc
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Last stator I got was separate, sherco must have finally wised up. Lots of the english places advertise just the stator now
Stator specs are on splatshops site & posted quite a few times up here if you do a bit of searching
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Thanks for posting that up David, I was sure there would be a lot of interest in what you had done
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You're talking about a 250? I had a good ride on 1 midway through last year & found it a lot zippier than my 290 & I came to the conclusion that it would be harder work. Haven't tried a new 290 though
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Try tucking all the wires away without the kill switch connected if you're using a button instead of the standard switchgear, if the problem is still there then it sounds like you've got a broken wire which makes intermittent contact
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The pegs you're thinking of are called pivotpegz
http://www.pivotpegz.net/
These are what I use, have tried with both the pins & brass domes, brass is my preference
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-Duralumin-Trials-Wide-Footpegs-Footrests-Y-Type-/320639691646?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item4aa79d6b7e
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Don't know that I'd blame that on the group b cars, isn't it still portugal that has stages cancelled due to the spectators?
Can you imagine just how scary the cars would have been nowadays if group b hadn't been killed, the drivetrain improvements etc that have occurred since would allow alot more of the power to be used
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Wasn't me, mine is bent a little bit though-sits away from the pipe by about 10mm
I don't want ot even contemplate what the lever is worth over here now that you pay for freight to australia then more to NZ, probably not much change from $400
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Correct.
First 2 rounds of north island champs are just north of Wellington on feb 5&6,south island's first 2 are exactly 1 month later in Alexandra which is less than an hours drive from Queenstown
Plenty of kiwis here will be happy to fill you in whats on in their local area if you pm them
Wellington's site
http://www.ixion.org.nz/home.php
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From memory the oko came a bit close to the cases on 1 of his carbs-possibly on the 125, he warned not to file the part that looked like a nut as the bowl is fairly thin there. Not a problem on my 290 as I have a different manifold
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Standard carb is a PHBL 26, think it has remained the same over the years
The bowl in your link looks like it should fit, would be prepared to put money on it fitting any dellorto carb that starts with PHB
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I've got 1 of those on my oko, great for seeing if water has gotten in there.
Got told june last year that knocking around 200mm off end of breather fixes the kinking & clogging problems, seems thats how far the mud travels down the hose & with the shorter hose the exit is away from the crap
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Have seen them oversize as well, a friend has 1 that he won't put a IRC near as he managed to split 2 through the sidewall trying to get them seated. I can't remember just how much it was bigger it measured but any tyre that had been on there won't seal on any other rim due to the bead having been stretched
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