tony27

Site was down for maintenence but if it's the 1 my brother in law sent me last week then whats the big deal, cheats have electric start Some people need their heads read I reckon

I had 1 lose spark during a trial last year, would come back when cold. Second day of the trial it quit completely & when I checked the next day still had no spark. Testing with the ohm meter showed slight differences to the readings but not major ones, on reconnecting everything the spark returned along with a telltale arc to the fan motor from a tiny crack on the plug cap which I hadn't noticed before Try a new plug cap as they're cheap then get hold of Chris at Splatshop if you still have no joy. He'll send you 1 quick enough for you to be going again by the weekend

Make that springs back a lot, you can get really brutal with the bending & it makes refitting much easier. Really brutal & hard on the ears is using a sledgehammer & blocks of wood on the ground Pays to do it with the bike close by & keep going until it fits up nice I do this anytime I have the bashplate off

Why did we screw it up & let the lawyers who are our age stop all that. First thing we learned was stupid hurts & lifes not fair, not for the kids now though as everyones a winner

Easier to fly to Australia or Canada

What problem are you having exactly? Shercos have a groove on the gearchange shaft where the pawl is welded on which allows the shaft to twist or break rather than cause damage to the gearbox internals, if you're struggling to select gears have a look at how close the lever gets to the bashplate when moving downwards If thats the problem its a easy fix, order a new shaft(about 40gbp) & gasket then pull the clutch off & change shaft. All very self explanatory when you do it Any problem other than that & you'll need to explain the symptoms better

Losing spark when the bike warms up is normally a source coil dying ie the insulation breaking down, check the resistances both hot & cold against the factory specs

How long is a piece of string? All depends on how you ride it, not sure on what age bike you're asking about as tank size can vary by 200mls or so from memory Quite often the bigger motors use less fuel due to being revved less, I generally get a lot better mileage on my 290 than the guys on 250s do

If condition & price are similar then buy the sherco, chances are the gas gas will be in need of a gearbox rebuild soon as thats the weak point that has been improved over the years. Sherco's have had basically the same engine for their whole life with gearbox ratio changes & different cylinders so are pretty bulletproof, weak points are sometimes stators dying depending on which brand is fitted & the rear shock is weak in the 06. Condition should be the deciding factor really. Hope thats of some help

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/keihin-pwk-28-needles.html Always found good service from these guys

Had a talk with 1 of the moulders next door today & he agreed that nylon is normally very stable but a lot of the things that were put in fuel as a substitute for lead are as bad for the nylon as they are for our health. The alcohol blends just make things worse but their effect is less certain due to the small amounts mixed in. As a side note motorcycling australia investigated using E85 fuel for this years superbike championship & abandoned the idea due to it becoming apparent that too many parts of the fuel systems not being compatable with the alcohol leading to major safety concerns. It wasn't only the plastic parts that they were worried about

I agree with spark on how the guards are made as a toolmaker myself, any guard that has detail such as wiring clips or pins will always be injection moulded. Fuel tanks are normally blow moulded or rotary moulded, front guards would be the only major parts that would lend themselves to vacuum forming Sorry to opur cold water on the idea

Still a lot more painful than when the bikes were new

http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-99-front-mudguard.html http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-99-rear-mudguard.html That was the first sherco I had, sold my 95 gas gas 350 & bought the importers own bike which was 1 of 4 brought in from memory. The guards used to come with all stickers fitted under a thick clear coat but it looks like they come separately now, use the parts book to find them quickly, saw most of them on the site

Thats not a nice image there cope

I'd say replace the needle as its holding open, pull the bowl off & see if anything looks out of place, if things are all sitting in their correct place then the needle valve is the problem

Looks like it's for the bin then, had come out at the thick section around the valve on both sides. How do you make sure it fits into groove properly? Didn't want to try the "no tubes" stuff as it's almost as dear as a new back tyre at around $135 over here with no guarantee that it'll do anything but make a mess when changing tyres

It's lucky to be 6 months old & fitted with tyre soap so I'm puzzled as to the cause

Even I've been there Cope

What is the best way to fit the newer rimtapes with the moulded in valvestem? I've just taken the tyre off 1 of my rear wheels thinking the bead had stretched causing a leak, turns out the rimtape had come out of the groove-both sides at the stem & for about 1/4 of the way around down 1 side. It had been fitted for a while with no problems up til now I'm starting to think my other wheel may have the same problem as it lost 7psi overnight Any suggestions?

Sure thats not the Xispa 4banger?

Unless all you ride is grippy rocks don't even consider them, sidewalls are way too stiff to get decent grip unless you run at 1-2psi Voice of experience here

Have a look at splatshops site to get the cost of parts #m062 & m063, they're the numbers for the 04 gears & I don't have a 03 parts book The parts books are available for download from their site-link to sherco's site & are quite helpful Best bet is to make the decision on whether you want to do the mains then strip the motor & see what you can find in there before ordering anything. Replacing the mains is a relatively easy & cheap job which I'd do anyway if going inside the gearbox

Was that the original stickers or the type that cover the frame from the pegs to the weld near the tank?

Last time I looked at their site they only had them for black frames but I'll check again