tony27

Shouldn't you be getting ready for christmas lunch David?

Might still pay to ask Ryan Young for the price of a new one, I'd be a bit worried about using a welded one & it would drop your resale value by a large amount due to it being obvious

Oh how quickly he's become a aussie , guess it'll be the US once they work out you're a saffie Tim Merry Christmas to you & hopefully you get as much riding in as me over the next couple of weeks

Theres a scribed mark on the outside of the flywheel thats lines up with a mark on the cases if you use a strobe light from memory. Normally with shercos you remove the flywheel & on the righthand top of the stator on the outside of the slot for the mounting screw is a line which should line up with the side of the mounting lug, easier to see & understand than explain. Have a look at the manuals pinned at the top of the sherco index or go to shercos site for a better/more detailed explaination One thing I'd suggest to any sherco owner who has the older style ignition cover with front sprocket guard is throw it as far away as possible due to the fact they warp & the chain throws water through the gap, the 06 onwards covers fit & seem to seal better

Sounds like some painful/expensive experience there Cope

If you're really worried about it being the magnetism best bet is to find someone who will let you swap flywheels, if that is the problem then post a ad looking for one as I'm sure a few people(me included ) will have a spare kicking around that they'll gladly part with Easiest way to trace any electrical problem is substitution with known good parts off a mates bike, swap parts onto each others bike one part at a time & sooner or later the running bike won't but the dead one should which tells you which part to replace

Silly question but did the new coil/cdi unit come with a new plug cap, I had my bike die a couple of months ago which turned out to be a hairline crack in the insulator. Had sent a old stator off to be rewound before I discovered this, least I have a spare in with my riding gear now

What level rider are you? The later model 3.2's are very snappy & better suited to experts. As far as reliablity goes the motor sounds to be pretty good, only real problems seemed to be hard starting on the earlier models. The rest of the bike apart from the frame is the same as the 2 strokes

Would have had to been the Brown replica unless it was a 320, don't think they would have sold many if that was the case

Pretty sure thats a no go in the later models due to holes in the airbox body If you look at the unifilter site they only list for 74 models so there has to be a difference in design

I run a Airoh CH3 at the moment, I've owned both the Shoei TR3 & NZI carbon. I would agree about the quality of the NZI's fittings, on mine the clasp started swelling with rust until it stopped working If you go to your local bike shop you should be able to try a Shoei or Airoh mx helmet to work out the correct sizing & possibly order it in, the Airoh trials helmets aren't imported here so I ordered mine off BVM. Seem to remember the cost being about 86 pounds plus postage Make sure you ask if the liner is removable as a dry helmet is always nicer to wear & should last longer

Settings should have been readings- motoplat uk's readings are for leonelli stators

Try finding a topfun dealer if they still exist, used to list heavier springs

What age is the bike, those settings are no good for the earlier ducati electronica ignition

Thats a tidy little bike there

If you have the puller etc or access to them it's only a couple of minute job to check the key, I managed to shear mine a few years ago. Can't remember if it still had spark though It's not unheard of as you've got a heavy flywheel trying to resist change & if things are sudden enough with the nut not quite tight then thats your problem

Apart from the arvo off with full pay

I second that, not the easiest to get seated & the dealer will be able to tell if your rimtape is had it

I'd agree with that, bought a racing gear lever on ebay off them. Tucked in closer to cases & allows ignition cover removal with lever in place

Have a look at some of the site sponsors or ebay, have seen them in both places. Otherwise BVM supplied mine

More oil equals less fuel meaning you effectively lean out the mixture same as dropping jet sizes

Way before then, wasn't that the teaser video of him testing the prototype in 04?

Well put. One of the guys I was trailriding/tramping on 2 wheels had said about how he'd gone down 1 tooth on the front of his gasser & down 1 at the back which was too much. General consensus was that going up on the rear would have been less drastic Using the gassers ratios as examples you'll see what we mean Standard 11 front 42 rear =3.82/1 reduction Present 10 front 41 rear =4.1/1 reduction Suggested 11 front 43 rear=3.91 reduction Common 10 front 42 rear =4.2 reduction this is standard for shercos & used by lots of gas gas riders Another benefit of altering the rear is not needing to use a half link Hope that makes sense

Are the plastics blue or grey underneath the sticker. Blue would mean 02 & grey is 04, the readings for 04 on are here http://www.uk-motoplat.com/testing.html or http://www.splatshop.co.uk/stator-repair.html I've never seen the readings for the ducati electronica ignition used in the earlier models but also haven't heard of any failing either Hopefully it shouldn't be too hard to find the problem as its not a complex system with lots of sensors like on the mont Follow Cope's tips on what to check & you won't go wrong

Personally I wouldn't go smaller on the front as it means the chain has to take a tighter turn which is not good for both chain & sprocket, always better to work on the rear-greater scope for incremental change Some guys have been running around 44t here to slow them down, would possibly mean second gear is used more often & sounds to be what you're after Only thing about lowering the gearing is that it can actually make the bike react quicker, think of how quickly the speed changes when in first compared to fourth