tony27

If you're still running the standard dellorto the routing of the hose can be affected quite a bit by where the inlet/filter cover is tightened up, you can loosen the bolt & twist the hose to a new position. Mine doesn't loop around the clutch hose & sits nowhere near the exhaust

Never heard of any engine problems as far as longevity goes, biggest issues have been starting related. Sherco sent out a kit over here to all the owners that included a new kickstart, ignition/coil, hot start kit for the carb & different camshaft. I was told 1 of the problems with them not starting hot was insufficent exhaust valve clearance which kept the valves open when hot. Shouldn't be too hard to find out if it's been done The former importer here in NZ put a oko flatslide on 1 & found major improvements in carb performance The 05 3.2s have a very manageable power delivery which is far better for the average rider than the current model Not much difference cycle parts wise to the 2 stroke, really only frame with removalable front spars, smaller tank & maybe airbox, rear guard being different Give it a try & see if you like it. I tried 1 when they first came out & reckoned if as was rumoured at the time that only 4 strokes were going to be available that I would have been able to switch without too much problem Hope that helps out

Would have thought a mono front end would mess up steering geometry, I think feetupfun was saying on trials.com.au that you also lose steering lock due to less offset bringing the legs closer to the headstock causing the tank to act as the steering stops

Thats some major surgery you've performed there Cope, is the hose on the choke size put there by you as a vent? Ever thought about seeing what that extra powerjet on top at the airbox actually does for a trials engine

Shot mains rumble not rattle, normally its the flywheel side that goes first due to leaking seal allowing entry of dirt. The clutch side one would cop extra lube if the seal went. As Cope says you can do the seals without removing the motor but bearings need the cases split. I'd just replace the seals & see if that fixes the problem before trying anything else to eliminate them as the cause, if you do end up doing the bearings as well it pays to not fit the clutch side seal until the cases are back together as the crank can catch the seal & turn it inside out

I'm guessing you've gotten your carbs from one of the scooter dealers on ebay Neo as they all seem to have either the straight up & down adjustable top or the non adjusting angled type. Oko in Oz list the adjustable 90deg top like dellorto's fitted standard have for about $35 which they reckon fit the PWK as well What sort of jetting do the carbs come with & what have you ended up running with, I'm thinking of throwing one at my bike & would appreciate a heads up on what works. What do you run from the airbox to the carb? You'd be right on the lefthand carb being 30mm Cope, I remember from one of the early posts that was the size Neo runs, would have thought it would effect the bottom end power but it doesn't sound like it does

I've never had a crankseal fail on a sherco but do replace them as a precaution if doing the bearings, not sure why some people do have problems with theirs You could be on to something as far as the effect of oils on the seal although I've used both ATF & proper gearbox oil in my bikes with none of the problems that Neo & Shercoman2k8 have had I'm still not 100% sure the problem is caused by a seal as normally the oil gets sucked into the motor rather that forced out so it sounds plausible that the centre gasket is leaking, would have thought symptons would be the same. Still seals are quick to change & always better to eliminate one thing at a time

Seals for crankshafts need to be made of viton due to the heat they face, nitrile seals harden & crack if heated where viton stays pliable The difference in colours & design is down to individual manufacturers preference. I've never come across anyone doing them black but the current ones are quite dark

Seals should be viton.The ones I got last month are a dark grey, sat side by side with a nitrile seal the colour difference is noticeable Crankcase vent is into a void at the top of the gearbox, would take lots of pressure to get oil up that high & even tipping the bike upside down wouldn't cause it to leak out. Changing the crankseals would be the first & easiest thing to do. Try Copes test of submerging the breather in water to see if it's a pressure thing, could find your carb problems lessen at the same time

The early ones were a lot more docile than the later models, great for clubmen etc, from trying a new one out just after it had been assembled I think they're aimed more at the top guys now as the power is quite aggressive

The previous importer here put 1 on a early model 3.2 & couldn't speak highly enough of the carb, think it was the stock size though- 28mm? Maybe these are the go on shercos

Hi Peter Still puzzled as to why I couldn't get spark sunday back at the van, took all the connectors apart & reassembled to no avail. No shorting from cap either due to it sitting in a different position Had a look for the kokusan ignition you told me about in the weekend but only ended up finding their site which talks about different diameters but no specific fitments Plan for tonight is new cap & then heating the stator with a hairdrier(too chicken for heatgun) to see if its a heatsoak issue with readings dropping as temp rises

Biggest issue with the gasser is the gearbox, quite a few have had issues. Riding position is very similar between the 2 so you won't find that much of an issue. Try it out & decide from there, newer bike can't hurt

I've got 1 on my second wheel & would have to say that if you ride in rocky quarries they're ok but the sidewalls are stiffer so they don't grip that well in mud, usually end up at around 2psi to get some sidewall deflection

Just picked my bike up & tested with a meter, readings were a bit higher than listed but that could be difference in meters. Bike started first kick with the tank off which is worrying, while it was running I noticed the plug cap must have a crack in it as it was arcing to the fan motor which wasn't noticable beforehand I wouldn't think that would cause no spark when hot then after between 5&20 minutes of cooling allow it to return. Yesterday there was no spark at all after it died waiting to enter a section, didn't return at all I'm thinking that I'll have to replace the cap then remove the flywheel & use a hairdrier to heat up the windings to see if there is any change in resistance Any other thoughts on tests to do?

My Jarvis appears to have done it's 2nd stator this year, not managed to ride as much as normal possibly 12 times in 8months Does anyone know where the resistance readings for the Leonelli coil unit can be found? I know readings for the stator as was provided with them to confirm the last 1 was dead earlier this year Worst part is apart from DNFing the last 2 rounds of our north island champs & having to spectate for most of the 2 days is that I've had to pay $600+ each for the last 2 & new importer based in a different country means no warranty. Who said betas had ignition problems, at least they get their stators replaced.

Look a bit more on ebay & you'll find 20 piece kits for not much. From what I understand pretty much everything is interchangable between the 2 brands

Thats a major bonus, run a v-force reedblock & never worry about screws again like me

No keihin on the Jarvis, really an early release 05 with some extra anodising & different tank & rear guard graphics

They changed to a shock that likes dumping its oil

Last year I replaced all the windows in my house with that expensive double-pane energy efficient kind, and today, I got a call from the contractor who installed them. He was complaining that the work had been completed a whole year ago and I still hadn't paid for them. Hellloooo,..... just because I am blonde doesnt mean that I am automatically stupid. So, I told him just what his fast talking sales guy had told me last year, that in ONE YEAR these windows would pay for themselves! Hellloooo? It's been a year! I told him. There was only silence at the other end of the line, so I finally just hung up. He never called back. I bet he felt like an idiot.

[quote name='ZIPPY' date='Sep 15 2009, 06:48 AM' post='211828' Would it be horrible if Honda did absorb montesa? The Montessas are Hondas with a different name anyways. About the only reason to retain the montesa name is nostalgia from "The Hayday of Trials" Thats what they did in the 80s, something to do with getting around import laws in europe at the time & the brand was going cheap

You're lucky I had my verniers at home & know where the original reed block is, the screws are M3 x 5 or 6. It would still pay to take it with you when you see the fastening supplier as 1 trip to get the right size is better than 2

Neo you're going to have problems getting the right screws from anyone but sherco unless you change to buttonhead capscrews. I run a v-force3 reed block which doesn't have screws so have no idea on their sizing. Take the reed block to a fastening supplier & hopefully they can help you

That doesn't seem right, would pay to find out the correct pressure & get a shop that does shock rebuilds to add gas to the lower pressure 1