bigmike1961

You still ride it/own it? I'm very interested now. The 185 motor is now in the frame, and I see that Sammy Milller is reproducing side panels. hope you get the camera fixed soom

That is one nasty looking sump plug, Mine was tight, started to round off, I hammered a socket on and managed to remove the plug. squeezed together chocolate wrapper has more structural integrity than the material that sump plug is made of. Replaced it with a Hell team one - good kit. took about a week to arrive from Australia.

Thanks for the replies, anyone out there know what the AJP part number might be?

Are the front brake master cylinders generic or bike specific for the SY250. Reason for asking is I've just sheared off the cap head screw that clamps the whole shooting match to the handle bar and the other one won't shift either. I was trialing tomorrow too. Briefly (very briefly) contemplated riding as it was - brake held on by 1 cap head screw and spinning about all over the place. In stead got the trusty drill out to drill out the screw and yep,you guessed it, the drill wandered off into the softer alloy!!! Blast, drilled and tapped the result to M5 and put a bolt in which holds everything as it should be but it's not right. Are there any up grades, what do you recommend? Where is best to purchase one?

Very nice, just like mine...except for the dented tank, manky mud guards, engine that runs rich and gets through more spark plugs that fuel and the perished tyres! I'm envious.

Got any further with the flywheel covers?

What abot this then http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1983-Honda-RS250T-Tr...ht_10862wt_1026

No good for mud? Why not?

I too am rather interested in this steering geometry black art as I'm sitting looking at a TL 125 frame just aquired from Ebay, an XL185 engine. a complete TL 125 and my Scorpa SY250.I was wondering if it would be possible to make the TL steer more like the Scorpa. The second hand frame was obtained to modify to but have an origional untouched frame incase things went horribly wrong in the modification process.

I too run the 12 tooth on the front.

I've got the reservoir at the top on my TL and the instructions from TY Trials said to leave the little valve well alone and not the mess with the gas in the shocks.

Yep I'm pleased, next step is modifying the rear of the frame & the rear brake pedal to get the engine in.

The Ossa/Honda looks good. Made a bit of progress with my build - built a cradle the the engine can bolt into and be turned over on the kickstart. Wired up the ignition gave it a good kick and ... nothing, no spark. Second engine had some major timing issues - about 90 degrees out. re-timed it but no spark and not much compression either. sucks good through the inlet manifold and then blows equally hard through the inlet manifold! Major tear-down needed I think. Should I buy a new CDI unit or the pick-up coil unit that lives in the head? Which is the more likely to fail? I've a new ignition coil and used two different pick-up coil units one in each engine Ok got it running now - missed the earth from the CDI unit. XR wiring diagram shows it going just to the kill switch and the XL wiring diagram shows it connected to the frame earth. Tried it the latter way and it fired straight up in the test cradle.

I think the TLR alternator has more coils for generating electricity than the XR. The XR runs without a battery and seems to have only 2 wires coming out of the alternator one for the ignition and one for the lights. Don't know if swapping the alternators might be an option?

After a minor diversion with my Scorpa cooling fan I found some time to look at the wiring for the CDI ignition wiring without a battery. Turned out to be pretty simple using the Clymer Manual and unpicking the old wiring loom. Turns out to be the same wiring as for the 1981 XR200. I found some 10mm OD tube with a 1mm wall thickness to sleeve the rear mounting holes in the cases to save re-drilling the holes in the frame.

Tell us more, pics of the mods, who did the steering head mods? how much did you steepen it by?. I've got a Tl in the garage with an xl185 motor and an ATC200X barrel (bigger fins) waiting for inspiration and time to fit. I ride a Scorpa but love the 4 stroke sound best! did you stay with the TL hub when you went over to the XL forks? How did you lose that much weight off the bike?

Tested with the jump wires- - no fan! took the bike apart some put 12V into the fan and it spam up fine. Checked all the connections, some seemed a bit corroded, Cleaned them up and applied some vasaline to keep corrosion at bay and all seems well. Thanks again for the advice.

You need a big circlip to fit in the groove that the standard plate fits into, About 15mm diameter if I remember correctly.

Thanks for the advice & info everyone. I'll be checking the fan/thermostat by bypassing the thermostat this weekend. Would there be a problem wiring the fan permanently on as there's a trial on Sunday I'd rather like to enter. The Scorpa is a revelation compared to the TL125 I'd been riding.

Great, thanks for the advice. on the wiring bypass. where do you buy the thermostat? Anyone got a link?

Thanks. Any idea how to test if it's operating properly?

Just bought a 2005 SY 250. Is the cooling fan on all the time the engine is running or is it on a thermostatic control? How hot does it get before the fan cuts in? Any advice would be appreciated.

I was planning to use the 12 tooth sprocket in conjunction with the 60 tooth rear and see how that goes. Had one trial fitting, no photos. The rear of the frame needs a little grinding and the rear brake pivot does indeed need moving. I was planning to move it up the frame tube and lengthen the brake lever to compensate. I'll take some photos when the work finally gets underway. I've still got to sort the lack of spark in the direct wiring out yet.

Thinking of buying a 1986 Gasgas 320 Are they good, bad, indifferent. Tried a Scorpa 250 and loved it similar or more primative? What do you think? Cheers Mike