liviob

I have a 09 290 EVO. Which I like very much. Yesterday I rode a 2010 Sherco 290 and noticed that it seemed easyer to balance when standing still. Do you think that the footpegs are mounted lower on the Sherco.? If lower footpegs would make the bike easyer to balance which pegs are best for the Beta.

The rear tublis wheel will very slowly leak down if the rim band is seated well. Maybe maybe more than a month to go flat. However if it leaks down within a few days you will need to remove the tire and rim band and clean the rim with dishsoap and water and clean the rim band with dishsoap and water for it to seal well. Use a product called Ru-Glide to seat the rimband and tire upon reinstallation. Do not use dishsoap to seat the rimband it will not dry guick enough and the rimband will pop out of it's seat.

Maybe you can ask Jitsie if the dampers are the same dimensions. I know the spring on the Beta is tapered. Even if it will fit the Sherco. It may not be valved corectly due to a possilble different linkage leverage ratio or have the correct amount of stroke. Do they make one for the Sherco?

I am not familiar with the Sherco shock. Why do you ask?

Does anyone know where i can get a 10oz or so flywheel weight that fits an EVO? Preferably in rhe USA.

Sorry to hear they quit working. Possibly all of the oil has leaked out. Allowing an experianced suspension tech to service them may be a good choice.

I thought the same that an advanced rider may have a better understanding of the two ignition maps. It just seems odd to me that 1 is more torquey at the start. Maybe the map is designed that way so that the rider can allow the motor to pull down low in the RPM's and avoid a stall while not breaking tracktion. I think that in slippery conditions that the number 2 position might be prefered because of its softer torque just above idle.

I'm doing fine with my 290. I weigh 250 lbs and ride at 7,000' to 11,000'. Does anyone understand the reasoning behind the two settings?

I dont know what it should be like? I am relativly new to trials and still in a steep learning curve. I am hoping that someone with more skill and experiance can validate my thoughts about the two ignition maps and possibly explain how each one should be used. To me it seems strange that the more powerful 2 position would have a softer bottom pull than the 1 position. I feel that the 1 position should be softer everywhere more like a 250. Maybe it is and i dont know because i have not ridden a Beta 250.

I am curious to know what those of you who have a 09-10 290 evo think of the two position ignition. I have used both setttings while riding and while i have been told that position 1 is the soft setting and position 2 is more powerful. The 1 position feels as though it has more just above idle torque than the 2 posiition. And the 2 position has more midrange top end torque than the 1 position. Is this how you experiance the throttle responce of your 290?

Install the screws carefully. Leave them all loose until you have fitted all of them into their holes properly. After their all in then tighten them up. I havnt had any troubles with mine yet although the last time i removed them one of them kept trying to cross thread in it;s hole upon reinstallation. I also covered those louver vents with silicone from the backside to prevent water from getting in.

I have fuel sitting in a can up to two months with no problems, but the opti2 oil that i use for motor lube has a fuel stabilizer in it.

You may also have a partialy blocked fuel delivery. When you feed the motor alot of fuel the delivery cannot keep up and the motor goes lean. Maybe you need a new fuel filter or see if there is a partial block in the tank at the tank valve. There is a brass belll that mounts under the main jet, and float bowl drain plug extender for the rev3 mikuni availiable through Beta. This will also help keep the motor from going lean at bigger throttle settings.

Samo, if you currently have a 145 main and you change to a #140 you will be leaner. If stock is a #140 and you are now richer on the main maybe you have another problem. Maybe the head has been shaved for more compression or the ignition is to far advanced and you are not running enough octain. What kind of symptom are you getting bthat makes you feel that the motor runs lean from half throttle up?

Samo, unless the carb is too rich from the factory you should be able to run the stock main and be ok.

I guess it would depend on which way you were looking at the bike. The fork leg on the clutch lever side holds the spring and compression valving, and the fork leg on the throttle side controls all rebound damping control. Have you tried using a small piece of camera film to clean the dirt out of between the fork seal and the chrome fork tube. Somtimes this will stop a fork seal from leaking and save a rebuild.

Probobly not, but first you need to see whats currently in your carburator. Dan Williams disclosed the factory jetting. Open the carb and see which size jets are installed now. What altitude do you ride at?

It sounds like you need a larger main jet since it's lean half throttle and up.

Is this somthing it just started doing or an ongoing issue?

If it just started running lean maybe you have an airleak. What throttle setting is it running lean at?

I have always thought it would be a good idea to have a trials with an endurocross, but i had not thought of the trials as part of the test. I think thats a very good idea. Two enduro races and two trials laps. The combined score winner takes all.

The owner of a company called two2cool says that engine ice and the typical auto coolent use the same propylene glycol.

Lean the bike to the far left and lightly tap on the brake line so that the air that moved into the line can travel back into the master cylinder. My Evo and KTM 300 have done this.

I had the same question that you asked so i dumped the pasty green factory stuff and refilled the cooling system with fresh antifreeze of a known type. No questions now!

Possibly 11/42