A few months ago I broke the switch for my twin-map throttle body, so I took the opportunity to make a switch like the one on http://montesa4rt.nl.

 

I fitted it for a trial today, but I couldn't tell the difference from one map to the other in the same way I thought I could before. I know that the switch is working ok.

 

Is there a way to tell what map is selected on the throttle body?

The website mentionas a possibility to add leds to see in witch map it is.

Spent ages looking through the site but can't find anything about adding any LEDs to see which map. The circuit has an LED which illuminates when the switch is ON, but there didn't feel like much difference between the maps like the plain switch. Half wonder of the load of the resistor for the LED makes the circuit look open to the PTB.

I was looking for some kind of place to hook up a test meter or even oscilloscope.

Im sorry cant help you with that. Im not familliar with the system. I can however translate if necessary.

 

 

 

http://montesa4rt.nl/image/modificatie/map_switch/schema_mapswitch-2.gif

 

If you check this picture, the led will only work when the switch is on, and the ''cables'' are connected. Otherwise the led would not get power. So if you connected them correctly the switching part should work. However I dont know if there is a way to check the result.

 

Apparantly the maps are activated by an on/off switch. Not connecting the 2 wires is mode one, connecting is map 2.

 

Led of is mode 1, led on is mode 2. So if the led switches on and off it should work imo.

Edited January 19, 201610 yr by crazybond700

Hi Dave, maybe you'll have to down load 2 wildly differing maps to see if you can tell a difference

Thank you Crazybond. I've build the switch as shown in the diagram and the LED illuminates.

I'll create a couple of maps one all power and the other no power the load them into the throttle body. To be honest I can't remember what I've got on the two maps anyway, other than one is "muddy" because that's what we have around here.

Cheers.

As a side note -I put the beginners map on a 2010 with s3 pipe for a friend and was surprised at how nice it was to ride -verrrrry smoooooth but still had some go in it.

I think you need someone with the (HRC?) program disc and connections for a laptop to read the maps and settings.

 

 

I think maybe you're not switching between the two maps of the "twin-map throttle body" with your home made switch.

 

A standard throttle body has two maps, one road legal homologation map, and a full power (without all the restrictors) map that most dealers activate at purchase.

 

I have had such a home made switch on my standard throttle body, and the difference is indeed hard to notice at normal use.

 

I suspect the "twin-map throttle body" has two, more different maps. And maybe they can only be activated by the original twin-map throttle body switch.

 

Have you compared the working of the two switches? Are they connected in the same way? Does the original switch contain any additional electronics maybe?

I have one of these coming tomorrow

 

 

http://jbanyeres.com/en/engine/297-pulsador-cambio-de-mapa-luz-1-color-azul-rojo-naranja.html

 

 

I will measure the resistance through the contacts of original switch when I take it off and post the results.

This schematic shows the switch to be a simple on-off switch (the red arrow points to the connector; the switch is upper left):

 

 

Upon inspection, the switch body has two copper lands and a sliding copper contact that :

Mode 1 - only covers one copper land - circuit open

Mode 2 - covers both copper lands - circuit closed

 

The copper lands are through-plastic-connected to the two wires of the switch; one each.

 

My multi-meter confirms open (infinity ohms) and closed (zero ohms).

 

If you remove the switch completely, the ECU will be in mode 1 permanently.

 

Looking at diagram of homemade switch this would put 1k resiter in series so that may be issue

Ian, I have made something like the switch in the second diagram. I was wondering if the 1k resistor is a sufficient load to make the throttle body think that the switch is open, so on mode 1. The LED lights, but I can't tell the difference between the maps. I was wondering if there was a test port on the ECU (or somewhere) to confirm what mode the ECU is using.

 

When the switch is open it is open circuit and when the switch is closed it is reading 1.07k ohms.

 

I'm sure I could tell the difference between the maps when I had a simple switch, but to be honest it's I broke the simple (HRC) switch several months ago. I like the LED switch because it looks so much nicer than the HRC switch.

 

Guys, I have the HRC disk and confirmed that the PTB had two different maps after programming. From memory one was for mud and the other was Laia Sanz 280, but I don't know which was which.

 

I think that I'll have to make a minimum power map and maximum power map so I can definitely tell the difference. Then if I can't tell the differences then perhaps over the last few months lost sensitivity.

 

Thank you for the replies so far.

Based on my experience a 1k resister could be enough to not select a map. It wasn't my 4RT but a different dual sport. But I did end up swapping back to a simple switch and fixed it.

Ive fitted mitani switch with LED and it reads 1k so id be surprised if those clever japanise chappies would be wrong. If Led comes on circuit is flowing current so its working, and circuit is complete. Will check if it is noticeable tomorrow.

This schematic shows the switch to be a simple on-off switch (the red arrow points to the connector; the switch is upper left):

Upon inspection, the switch body has two copper lands and a sliding copper contact that :

Mode 1 - only covers one copper land - circuit open

Mode 2 - covers both copper lands - circuit closed

The copper lands are through-plastic-connected to the two wires of the switch; one each.

My multi-meter confirms open (infinity ohms) and closed (zero ohms).

If you remove the switch completely, the ECU will be in mode 1 permanently.

Is mode 1 the more aggressive or softer mode please as I'd like to remove this nonsense off my handlebars, thanks

Edited January 22, 201610 yr by trialsash965