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About zippy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
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  • Bike
    03 BadAssGasGas 300
  • Club
    Team WGASA, Bent Fenders

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  • Location
    Redneck Hell
  • Gender

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19,557 profile views
  1. Vtrgg3002f0740086 I would say based on the table above your VIN is for a 2005 model 300cc (also look on the cylinder flywheel side by the exhaust and you should see 30 stamped/cast into it) 3002 = 300 model with the 02 year of Europe homogulation F = 2005 07 = manufactured in July 4 = manufactured in 2004 0086 = 86th bike made As for gearbox oil, the Pro engine uses much less than the previous model engine. Takes approx 380cc, but of course watch the sight glass on the clutch cover and fill it to halfway or just above halfway. Which oil to use? there is a wide range of opinions on that.............
  2. That's a lot of extra $$ going out just for the privilege to drive a car. I can understand the decision made.
  3. Oh My God!! You are such a strong fellow to be able to go on in life with out the caress of a scooby enveloping your bum when you need to travel. We should start a Go Fund Me for you to be reunited with a love of your life.
  4. Apparently I have a liquor store, just didn't know it.
  5. Regarding threadlock: Be careful with it, don't use too much and I would suggest using the "blue" vs the "red" (what we have in the States) . The blue will allow for removal, whereas the red is almost permanent. The head on my bolt is not very thick so there is not much material for the Allen wrench to grab onto and could strip easily, I think it is a 3 mm or 4 mm
  6. Maybe not, Gassers have had their fare share of rectifier and stator issues as well, (maybe more rectifier issues than stator).
  7. I have had to split the cases an equal number of times for the 03 GasGas 300 as I did with the 2000 Sherco 2.9 I owned before it. In the same period of time. but to be honest it would have been less for the GasGas except I misdiagnosed a bad rear wheel bearing as being a transmission problem, and one other time I replaced the crank seals but went on the cheap and did not replace the little O-ring under the spacer on the crank shaft. So basically the Sherco had to be split more often for crank bearing failures than the GasGas for transmission.
  8. I have knocked the "button" of the wrist strap off with my belly, and came to an abrupt stop. Wonder if the wrist strap is trying to tell me something?
  9. I love my Alpinestars No stops. The sole has a steel shank in it that keeps the sole from flexing/wrapping around the footpegs when landing off steps. (helps my arch not hurt) I believe the Alpinestars Tech T boots also have the steel shank. which may have helped with your odd landing of toes in the dirt/heal in the air. Honestly I don't know if other brands of boots have that steel shank in the soles or not. edit: the No stops are very comfortable, even from new. feels like I am wearing a pair of hiking boots.
  10. Air Bags!!!!
  11. when I bought mine about 4 yrs ago both of my rims had cracks in the vertical bit. I took them to a skilled welder. He ground a bit out and welded it up. He smoothed the inside surface but at my request left the outside with the weld built up. my theory was keep it stronger. No problem with the front rim as of yet. the rear rim has held up fine. the rear hub not so much.
  12. you making me jealous. HA
  13. So today I thought maybe the front wheel bearings were bad and causing a wobble that transferred into bad front brake. I popped off the front wheel and to my surprise the wheel bearings were not loose at all. The wheel bearings so tight they did not roll. Not just hard to roll or notchy. The damn things (both sides) will NOT move. SO new wheel bearings later and run around yard a bit and I think we are all good again.
  14. The issue I am having is the front brake will engage with the lever at the exact spot I want it to, but during an event in the middle of a random section it will engage with the lever closer to the bars and I don't have the leverage/travel to get the front brake to bite the way it should. Then later it works fine, almost like air in the system at just that point. I have done the following: Bled the system, Replaced master cylinder Rebuilt caliper (pistons and seals) Discovered the pads were binding - ground the edges so the pad would slide in the caliper without touching the caliper and drilled the mounting holes 1 drill bit size larger to allow the pad to slide along the mounting pins. Replaced front wheel bearings - which I may need to do again. It is as though for some reason one brake pad contacts the fixed disc and pushes it towards the other pad, but being fixed the disc stays put. then I am waiting for the other pad to come over and press on the disc as well or it never does and there is about half of the force on the disc. My hope is that a floating disc will "slide over" that little bit, taking up slack from the different variables and allow pads to put pressure on both sides of the disc. Is that clear as mud? It will probably be a while before the keeper of the finances lets me try my theory.
  15. Yep you can make jokes, but after clicking on the "ignore" option I won't have to see them anymore. Goodbye, have a nice life.