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About zippy

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    Advanced Member
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  • Bike
    03 BadAssGasGas 300
  • Club
    Team WGASA, Bent Fenders

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    Redneck Hell
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  1. Well, you could go at any time if you wanted to, it is open 24/7. But why would you want to go? seems like hard work is involved.
  2. Well, I am not sure about 100% , but I would say that if those parts are changed you should be reasonably confident that the usual ways for gearbox oil to get to the combustion chamber are fixed. Be sure to take note of the location of the outside hole of the main bearing when you pop it out to change 41, it needs to match up with a hole in the cases to allow the gearbox oil to lube the bearing. Good luck sir, and may your oil troubles be fixed.
  3. the O-ring part number 20 in your pic may be a source of issue, but that O-ring may be integrated into the new style bearings that eliminates the need for the collars that I have on my bike. the O-rings and collar I was referring to are Part numbers 1 and 2 in this Pic: It appears to me that according to your parts listing for 2008 you have the "new" style main bearing. (pic below) this has the O-rings number 20 sand 41 built in. I am not sure if these O-rings can be purchased separately. Pic of "new upgraded main bearing" Note the internal and external O-rings.
  4. Test it this way, from cold 1. Start your bike, let it idle for a bit and note how much it smokes, in Neutral rev it up as though you are about to hit a 4 ft splatter. Does it smoke the same as idle or more. If more you most likely have a seal of some type leaking. If smoke is the same go to step 2. 2. Go for a blast in 5/6 gear getting exhaust good and hot. Does it smoke more now, if yes probably just oil build up in exhaust burning off. You mention losing gearbox oil so I am betting step 1. will smoke more. common Locations of oil getting into cylinder: crank seal / associated O-rings on clutch side, center gasket, Depending on what year GasGas Pro you have you may have the new upgrade crank bearings or you may not. If you have the old style like I do there is a collar on the crankshaft, this collar has an O-ring between the collar and the crankshaft. I had that O-ring go bad once and the bike was consuming oil. It is a right Bas*ard to change and I changed the O-rings and collar. Old collar comes off hard.
  5. I am ok with hopping causing a rider to move back a couple of inches, but I also believe that attempting an obstacle, keeping both feet on the pegs and failing the obstacle, but backing up and attempting again is a 5. due to the fact the rider already failed the obstacle the first attempt. Using more markers and tape is half the fun of setting up a section: "How can I force them to ride this the way I want them to?"
  6. Personal opinion, can't remember where I first saw this but I believe ITSA (USA) runs with these rules. This makes sense to me for how the sport and riders have progressed. Stop, balance, feet up, no other support = 0 stay moving, feet up, balance, no other support = 0 Stop, foot down, or other support (ex. leaning on tree) = 5. This allows for stop and hop, or no-stop equally, but penalizes the rider for the "all day dab". But you better be able to stop and hop without putting your foot down. If MOTA went to these rules I would have to drop a class in order to not get maximum points. I would be ok with that. Section severity would not need to change, in order to make it harder. Just need to have better control of your bike.
  7. I only mentioned "keyboard warrior" because I wasn't sure if I was explaining what people already knew and I may have mis-interpreted their posts.. But from the sounds of it we are all on the same page of what the issues are with Nubsey's bike. and what the repairs should be. Oh this is getting needlessly messy... I am going back to my coffee. I would rather not discuss Trump, "Fake News", or the Sabre rattling that is occurring on social media, too much drama and anger there. Nubsey, Keep us informed on the performance of the bike, and hope you have many hours of fun with the grandson.
  8. So Denver won't let you enter? Did you not make reservations or did you forget it was suit and tie type of establishment?
  9. Personal opinion here. Possible "keyboard warrior" moment. without actually being there to see the bike etc. I think some of my very knowledgeable fellow TC home mechanics may be getting confused due to terminology being used. The pic above Nubsey has referred to as the "flywheel behind the big nut". Most of us when we see "flywheel" we think of the stator side of the engine and a hole in that seal would suck in air, causing a lean condition making the bike rev higher, etc... But what he is actually referring to here is the gear on the crankshaft that drives the clutch basket. So my recap: (if I am incorrect please let me know) Bike is a 2000 GasGas, this is before the pro and the motor is very similar to a Sherco of the same year. (because Sherco based theirs on GasGas). There is only one Crankshaft seal on each side of the motor. The hole in the Crankshaft seal on the clutch side of the motor behind the crankshaft gear pictured above will allow the gearbox oil to be sucked into the cylinder and burned, causing massive smoking and the loss of gearbox oil. I believe the spring side of the seal is to be oriented towards the "pressure" side of the seal, in this case, as the piston comes down it will provide pressure toward the seals and this will actually "push" the seal against the shaft assisting with the sealing abilities. I think the remaining smoking when revved hard is due to running 50:1 on your pre-mix. Yes it can be done, yes it will run, but it is not necessary to run that much oil in the premix. Most trials bikes are running 80:1, a few at 70:1, a couple at 90:1, I even heard of one running 100:1. If you have not repacked the muffler there could be some smoking from there if it happens after running it hard down a trail getting the exhaust very hot and "burning" the oil out of the muffler packing. OK sorry for long post, "keyboard warrior" moment has passed. (don't know why the hole was in the seal, may never know, chalk it up to gremlins)
  10. OH I have all kinds of opinions..... HAHAHAHAHA What I do for the packing is just open the bag and wrap the center tube with all of the packing that is there. The packing I get is one piece similar to a chunk of insulation. Many different brands etc. but like this then I use some masking tape (white papery type tape) to hold it in place/ compress enough to fit inside muffer then cut the packing at the same length as the center tube or maybe quarter inch longer at each end. then SHOVE it in the muffler, it is a tight fit. Most likely the old packing will come apart in pieces, be soaked with oil etc.. not really easily used as a pattern.
  11. My opinions: Step one: switch to 80/1 for the fuel/oil mix Step two: repack the muffler - Local motorcycle shop should have "exhaust packing" drill out rivets holding end cap, remove end cap. Pull perforated tube out of muffler along with all old packing. Make sure holes in center tube are clear, they can fill up with carbon, gunk etc.., make sure inside of muffler is clean. Wrap center tube with new packing, may have to wrap it a little tight to get it to fit back in muffler, cut the excess length of packing off. SHOVE the wrapped center tube back into the muffler, line up the tube with the hole at the end of the muffler, reinstall end cap making sure to line up the hole with the center tube. Rivet end cap back on. Hanging exhaust center box over a pail wouldn't hurt either to let anything in there drip out that could drip out. Step three: run bike Step four: IF you are burning transmission oil it will be either the crankshaft seal on the clutch side, (that is where the oil is, Flywheel side would let air in and the bike would run lean and rev up a bunch) or the center gasket failed between transmission and Crankshaft area. You stated " I seriously suspect the oilseals on the crank case. Could drain the oil, from gear box and run it, but I suspect it would only prove my thoughts. " NEVER run the bike without fluids in it for lubrication and cooling, BAD things will happen very fast. Just my opinions.
  12. Finally cleaned it on the 3rd loop. HAHHAHA love it.
  13. Vtrgg3002f0740086 I would say based on the table above your VIN is for a 2005 model 300cc (also look on the cylinder flywheel side by the exhaust and you should see 30 stamped/cast into it) 3002 = 300 model with the 02 year of Europe homogulation F = 2005 07 = manufactured in July 4 = manufactured in 2004 0086 = 86th bike made As for gearbox oil, the Pro engine uses much less than the previous model engine. Takes approx 380cc, but of course watch the sight glass on the clutch cover and fill it to halfway or just above halfway. Which oil to use? there is a wide range of opinions on that.............
  14. That's a lot of extra $$ going out just for the privilege to drive a car. I can understand the decision made.