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@Steveyboy vibrations through the bars can happen if the bolts holding the front of the bash plate to the frame are not totally tightened up also make sure all the motor bolts that hold it in the frame are tight , they do not need to be stupid tight or the motor lugs may snap.

@ Steveyboy The only way to get rid of the noises is to have all those parts renewed IE the kick gear the idler gear the clutch basket and the bush and the primary drive , very expensive . It makes more sense to replace the cluch basket bush/bearings and use a grinder on any chipped damaged gears to smooth off their surfaces where they mesh.

@Steveyboy In short yes it will make lots of noise and it is normal for this to happen regularly if used a lot on a Pro model , a pair of gears for the Kick mechanism are around £200.00 these days and the best way to make sure you don't have to buy a new pair every 5 minutes is to slowly engage the gears before you kick the bike over and also when you fit the kick start do not position it on the splines too far forwards there are two positions that were used by factory riders through the years those were 12 o'clock and about 7 mins past 12. look at old WTC videos on YouTube to see these.

Hi Had a look at my clutch tonight as it is terribly rattly which I know these bikes are known for it. I found these 2 chips on the idler gear would they have any effect on the noise? I guess the bart gear looks a bit tasty too, although it kicks up on 2nd kick from cold and 1st kick when warm. The clutch basket and plates all look sound. I was worried the clutch basket would be worn out but it looks good. The only other thing I have noticed is the bush/bearing on the shaft going to the gearbox has some play in it. I've tried to attach a video but it won't upload for some reason. It all seems to work ok but I get quite a bit of vibration through the bars too. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks

It's just an old Aprilia model name. Here's a pic of one: https://www.james-pratt.com/2023/01/working-on-my-very-rare-aprilia-280-climber-trials-motorcycle/

I'm from the U.S and I don't mean to be a smartass but, I am not familiar with the term "climber". What does that refer to? Thanks , LaVen

Is it a tubless or not? Just putting a tire on is pretty simple. Alot easier if you heat the new tire up first. Laying it on the dazh of your vehivle is the easiest. Some sunshine needed. Soap and water mix and lube well. Lots of vids on it. Good luck.

I have always assumed there was a sponsorship deal. A friend calls that oil "Elf Tears".

I also wonder why Montesa recommends very expensive oil for the transmission. I used that for the first change but plan to look for alternatives. I ride in mostly dry conditions.

Hello friends, yet another noob question..please forgive my continued ignorance and inexperience! I have looked online prior to posting but just got confused by all the conflicting info out there. I am going to try to replace the rear tire myself (never done it before) and have a question regarding rim locks. The bike doesn't currently have one and I run at about 10psi and haven't had any problems (it was like this when I got it). Should I put one in now just to be safe- is that the done thing, or is it ok without? And if so, does the rim lock go in first and then you mount the tire, or do you mount the tire then put in the rim lock? I think I need to drill a hole in the rim too for installation on the reflex, yeah? and it is a 2.15" size - is that correct? Is there anything else I need to think about when installing a new tire? I was going to try the zip tie method. sorry for so many noob questions! just dont want to mess it all up, lol.Thanks so much in advance for any help or advice. Truly appreciated!

4T Trials bikes typically have separate oil for the engine and transmission, the transmission oil needs changing when it contains water or the clutch will cause problems as the transmission never gets hot enough to boil the water out. If you are doing lots of water crossings or power wash your motorcycle regularly you will need to change the oil when the clutch starts to make strange sounds or act up. ... They only hold half a litre in each reservoir so it is not a significant cost to change out. The separate engine and transmission oil is a great design because it allows you to use inexpensive hydraulic oil in the transmission suited to wet clutch applications and change it frequently. Separate engine oil enables you to run high tech multi-grade engine oils in the engine if you wish without causing wet clutch problems associated with friction modifiers. Water is slightly less of an issue in the engine oil where the oil is in contact with very hot parts but it has a paper oil filter that will have issues if that contains water. ... Do you power wash your bikes, operate in a wet environment and do lots of deep water crossings? <- you need to change out the oils and filters more often compared to the guy riding a dirty dirt bike in an arid environment.

From my maintenance log, both oils every 15 - 20 hours. Filter every other oil change. I'd say it depends a lot on conditions of use. Sending a drain oil sample for analysis can be enlightening. Don't wait 40 hours to check the level.

If it is a radial it will have an R stamp in the tire size, and/or clearly state Radial on the tire sticker. If it does not say Radial or R then it is not a radial tire. Radial tires typically cost more. You can safely run a rear trials tire in either direction on a trials bike, happens all the time. One rim lock might not even do it, you might need two rim locks if the tire does not fit the rim tight, two rim locks on the rear was common in the days before radial tubeless tires became common. If the tire slides on the rim it will typically shear off the valve stem leaving you with a tube that can not be patched. All of that just to run a cheaper tire that performs less, weighs more and is far harder to install. Tubes and rim locks are no longer cheap and you might even spend more coin to convert to tube type compared to just running the correct tire. Tubeless rim and tires have a different bead shape compared to tube type.

Yeah the tubeless rim seems flatter than a tube type. I was going to use a tube. Original owner had a tube in it. Probably wouldn’t seal on the rim anymore. I have the IRC trials tires, I think they are radials and directional. Would have to drill the rim for a rim lock which I would rather not do.

An polyurethane strap for handlebar wireshttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7060446

The manual shows 15 hours as the oil/ filter change interval for a 2018 300. That sounds like an MX bike. Meanwhile, the Beta 4T manual shows 40 hours. What interval are people using?

When I ran tubeless tires on a tube type rim they were almost impossible to bead suggesting the tubeless tire rides tighter on the rim, going the other way around you will have the opposite problem; about the only way you could do it is to glue the tire on the rim and that would both seal in the air and stop the tire from moving on the rim. Is the tire radial or bias ply? Best to buy the correct tire and better to run a radial.

I’m working on a 1993 Climber that has a tubeless rear wheel. The tire I received with the bike is tube type. Can I use this tire with tube? Would probably have to use a rim lock. Or should I buy a tubeless tire and valve stem or tube? Thanks

@ cello the World is a strange place BETA probably fitted them like that at the factory , the seal will work like that and probably cause no problems but the seal for the pump should really have a seal that has the open end with the expansion spring near the lip facing toward the coolant , the pressure of the coolant goes against that area thus helping it to seal more than without any pressure. If you check out the TRS trials bike it has a seal for the oil and a seal for the coolant with a gap between the two seals that is within a casing and that casing has a hole, if the pump seal fails coolant drips into the casing and out of the hole so that you will know it has failed .On the TRS the seal for the oil has the open end facing the oil and the seal on the pump has the open end facing the coolant as they should. Regards Alan.

Thank you, so the last owner fitted the seal incorrectly - see pic

The open side of the seal faces toward the greatest pressure as the gearbox casing should be vented and have minimal internal pressure and the water cooled system operates under a greater pressure to increase the boiling point of the coolant in that closed system and so the open side of the seal faces towards the impeller/pump housing cover.

thanks for the advice both of you, I did what you said and dropped the bearings in , a sharp tap with the hammer and they seated ok with no apparent woresning of the crack. I have also applied a layer of JB Weld just to ease my mind a little and will give it a try. Can someone confirm the orientation of the waterpump seal , the one I removed had the closed side towards the water with the open side towards the oil - is this correct?

I locked up the wife's Ducati with a disc lock when we went on holiday. When we got back I couldn't get the thing to work - the lock barrel had failed and the key wouldn't open it. I tried oil and all sorts but it would not come off. A customer offered to cut it off for me which was an offer I accepted. He had a small battery disc cutter/angle grinder in his van with a cutting disc on it. The disc cutter took the lock off in about 15 seconds. It was pretty quiet and my missus in the office 20m away never heard it.

Most of the little $hit$ that steal bikes, are only equipped with simple tools, like a battery powered angle grinder, bolt cutters, and the like. If you know a smith, have him make you a steel lock bar, that you can mount in the floor, make it 30mm diameter, as that's toothick to cut with a battery powered angle grinder. Secure it with a large (M20 and up) simple countersunk hex bolt, that requires a larger hex wrench than any of those monkeys has along. If you really wanna guild the lilly, wrap the steel rods in Kevlar or similar. That will make a mess of any angle grinder. Not saying this will be 100% safe, but it will make most scum give up, and go steal somewhere else. Making the garage a pain to get into, also helps. That's fairly easy to do. In general, what seems to work, is something the monkeys are not familiar with. So anything the local smith can do, will beat the most expensive lock you can buy.

Hi, I’m looking to buy a Cub. Please let me know if anyone has one they’re looking to sell. Thanks