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I saw the OP at a trial 2 weeks ago, and asked if he installed the compression adjuster? He said he had not bothered in the end, and the forks were working fine for our conditions.

Replacing the intake manifold to install the Keihin carburetor requires removing the engine. A screw is inaccessible... A quick stroke with the Dremel to adjust the manifold diameter to the white plastic part that fits into the reed valve. This gave me the opportunity to add an extra 0.5mm base gasket, following J. Banyeres' advice. The Italkit S3 piston and connecting rod are perfect. This was a good opportunity to check the previous work. 45/125 jets. It seems like a good base. New footpegs, more in line with Lampkin's bike. 48 idle jet (adaptable), 3/4 open air screw. I'll try a Keihin 48 jet to see if my adaptable jets are properly calibrated because I thought I'd see more difference between a 45 and a 48. I made three 3.5mm shims to shift the airbox further back because the carburetor and adapter piece assembly are longer than the Dellorto's. The engine is soft at the bottom. I didn't lighten the flywheel on this one. The extension seems better... test on the flat. We'll see on the climbs.

Hello All, Recently rebuilt my engine, but I can't find neutral. Can change through the box using the kick-start, but it's always in gear. Any ideas? Thanks.

Don't need soap or water with mounting a tube tire except to test for leaks and to wash the wheel before you work on it. Edited yesterday at 06:09 PM by lemur The canuks must use Moose urine! Mounting a tire without lube is lunacy at best!

Are we allowed to plug Jitsie parts here?

Picture of what you have to work with might be in order. From your description all it likely needs is bags of money and many hours of wrenching. I say no to period correct parts, unless they are used and in need of service it won't represent a significant cost saving to buy obsolete parts. Here's the problem; if you don't have a ride that works near perfect you will not enjoy the sport.

@Binkso19 If you want budget friendly then you would be better chasing 38mm forks with the yolks/triple trees included then make the necessary mods to make every thing fit. this can end up being quite a task sometimes so you need to have some patience and expect it to cost quite a lot . if you are just looking to mess about on a trials bike I would just buy a cheap bike that already has all the parts on it and works. If you like messing around then I wish you the best of luck. Regards Alan.

www.betausa.com support service manuals beta evo 2009-2015 that will give you guidance the evo model motor is very similar .

I think that is very wise the clutch bearings are probably fine anyway. As you say its an old bike and it isn't really worth the expenditure , it will all work fine even with the kick gears in worse condition than yours are now so you do not need to worry as when you ride the bike the noise is a lot less noticeable. As regards changing the bearings its a doddle there is just 1 x bolt in the centre of the clutch shine a torch there and you will see the allen head deep in the recess this bolt is drilled and has a hole through it for breathing of the gearbox casing so it is weak you must make sure that the allen key that you use fits tightly or it will round off and you will have to drill the head off so care is needed , with luck it may be loose.

Cheers Konrad, Not worried about not enjoying it, I ride mountain bikes and have good mechanical skills from cars, go karts and bikes so not scared of any of the jobs on the list! Tinkering is half the fun haha! This Aire is my father-in-laws that’s been sat around for years hence starting off with a ‘classic’.

I'd strongly suggest borrowing a bike to see if you even enjoy the sport. You could easily spend far more time tinkering than riding. Which is fine if that's what you want, just understand what you are getting yourself into. You'll need well-developed mechanical skills from some other endeavor.

Hi All, Starting a project on an ‘89 Aire. I don’t have the forks to go with it so looking at my options (budget friendly). I’ve never tinkered with or even ridden a motorbike so don’t have any knowledge to go off. What are my options of forks/wheels? I assume getting something period correct will be my best option for getting something that will fit? Is it just a case of making sure the forks fit with the 35mm yokes that I have? Or if I get a full set with different yokes is it just headtube dimensions to check? I.e if theres upside down forks that I can find. I’m not overly fussed about making it factory corrects just looking to get it usable so don’t mind if it’s a different brand etc. thanks in advance, look forward to getting stuck in!

Hi there, I’m in the middle of building the engine on a 2004 beta rev3 does anyone have a diagram of gearbox? I have a box of shims etc unsure which goes where as I didn’t strip the engine just been given it to try and rebuild. Previous links posted don’t seem to work anymore. Thanks mark

Thanks for the replies. I might just leave as is. I'll check the bolts on the mounts etc to see if that helps with vibration. It's hard to justify spending lots of money on a 2012 bike. It's not like I'm out every weekend on an expert route. It's a white route once a month dotted with practice at home in the week. I do like the bike tho. Very reliable starter etc. we'll see. Time is a factor too as I guess it's a reasonable strip down to replace that bush behind the clutch basket

Oh yeah I live near Langham so I think raydon is the closest ? Where is it in raydon ?

Hi I have been a motorcyclist for years puch maxi to my road king u have a beta trial bike id like to go to raydon join in and generally try a session obvs very new to trials, my son does cross which I find dull but it’s my turn to try trials how do I get involved ? Thanks mark

Rim lock I would buy a light one, but my bikes are a lot lighter they all work if you don't pinch the tube mounting it and that rarely happens. ... I can easy spot the cheapest one there and that would work just fine.

fish glue! lol...love it. not sure i'll use sheet metal screws (yet, anyway!) is there a good brand of rim lock i should get? i see fleabay has quite a few options for 2.15" ...any recommendations appreciated! do all these basically do exactly the same thing?

Want to know a Canadian backwoods Trials tire fix secret, the worlds best tire sealant is Fish Glue. I even used it to fix holes in an inner tube tire that has sheet metal screws in it for riding on ice and snow 😎

Seen it done with sheet metal screws through the side of the rim and into the bead, but that's a bit backwoods.

Almost shocking that rim has no hole for a rim lock, hole is typically not same size as the valve stem hole. For the tire to slide that direction it was under brake force Rim lock is a safety feature for braking because it might suck real bad when your brakes don't work.

Thank you so much Lemur, appreciate the insight and advice! I'm excited to learn more and do this myself. looking at this pic its definitely not coming straight out and does appear to be at a bit of an angle.. Q/ so when i drill the hole to install a rim lock is there a 'best' place on the rim..I'm guessing opposite the valve stem? Thank you all for helping, i learn a great deal here from your wisdom and experience!

Rode 4RT for decades and only used the same all season hydraulic transmission oil I used in the farm tractors and excavator in the transmission. Regular Honda oil in the engine. Filters are easy available and inexpensive. Never have clutch and transmission problems even in winter sub zero riding 2T or 4T Using Kubota branded oil at the moment, check out your local farm supply

You know you need rim locks or some other way to secure the tire to the rim when the valve stem goes crooked or disappears into the rim or gets sheared off depending on how you have the valve stem locked down, I put one side of the tire on and then push the tube in from the other side tube deflated, install the valve stem, rim locks are in place with the nut backed off completely, push the rim locks in by the bolt and nut when you are mounting the second beed, the rim lock is where you need to install the bead first then work around the rim to about the 3:o'clock position to finish mounting the tire. Don't need soap or water with mounting a tube tire except to test for leaks and to wash the wheel before you work on it.