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The end float on the gear shaft won't affect the plunger as that acts on the selector drum, but too much end float on the gear shaft means the selector fork is not in contact with the selector drum when the shaft moves too far to the left. Inside the clutch case there are two washers on the gear shaft, normal and wave washer, located by a circlip. These restrict the shaft end float, if they aren't there the shaft will continue to work its way outwards, disengaging with the drum, nothing that a kick with your heel won't solve to push it back in though

I use hand sanitizer to put handlebar grips on lol maybe that will work for whatever the heck it is you are trying to make slippery.

Thanks Woody, you got me thinking, and I realised the gear change lever shaft had far too much end float so the plunger was not engaging with the selector drum detent. All sorted now , I just can't get it to spark!

other options include WD40 and dishwashing liquid solution

Screw adjuster valve clearance tightens with wear as the valve wears into the valve seat. Valves do travel at half speed of the crank, is the ticking in time with the crank or valve train, that can help to narrow it down some times. Your bikes parts manual shows only one spring on each valve, most have 2 springs wound in opposite direction to each other (stops the valve from rotating), I'd be looking for a damaged valve spring if it turns out to be a valve noise.

@halfway www.birkettmotorsport.com - scorpa - parts books - halfway down the page. SY/TY 125F info.

If the engine is in the bike, put it in 1st and try just tapping the gear lever into neutral with your heel whilst rocking the bike. If the shimming is making the gear selection a bit stiff it could cause the selector to go straight past neutral to 2nd and vice-versa. Tapping it with your heel should move it just enough for neutral. It's how I get neutral on my 250 as the gear selection is a bit stiff, my 350 gets neutral a lot easier

TT-R125 manuals are available online. Valve clearance (cold) IN: 0.08 ~ 0.12 mm (0.0031 ~ 0.0047 in) EX: 0.10 ~ 0.14 mm (0.0039 ~ 0.0055 in) Check the cam chain tensioner too.

Valve clearance and cam chain were going to be my first checks in a couple of days, hopefully just the valves not adjusted to spec. Any ideas what spec should be?

https://www.redlinestands.com/catalog/shop-equipment-c-327/tire-change-equipment-c-327_331/tire-changers-c-327_331_248/discontinued-coats-220-manual-tire-changer-p-1865 I had this manual changer for over thirty years. Lubed every tire I ever installed. All trials tires I could usually mount just by hand. Street tires were just as easy. Some of those rock hard knobbies were still the worse. Wish I still had it, but I quit working on bikes for the most part. Just my own. With all my grand kids growing up, it's still would of been usefull! .

Regarding ticking, have you checked the valve clearance? Regarding low-rpm hesitation...

Dog bone linkage bearings need to be serviced lots to keep water out, if the part becomes deformed from impacts it is near impossible to keep the needle bearings good. Many parts are unchanged in the 4RT I just used hydraulic oil in the transmission and change it often, I think the clutch is also unchanged on the 4RT, 2 paper and 3 cork fibre plates in the clutch, nothing special.

Manual sent, hope you find it useful. 🙂

Thanks again Woody for getting touch. Engine is in the bike , I'll take it off the bike lift and try it. Yes the plunger is fitted. I'll let you know how I get on. Best regards, Colin.

It’s a radial tire. I did mount it on the rim, went on a lot harder than a regular rim. I had a heck of a time seating the bead. Tire looks normal on the rim. I don’t think it’s going to move!

I have an owners manual that I can send you a copy of if you would like to PM me your direct e mail address.

Looking to service a 315r which runs great, anything I should be looking out for or giving special attention? And how do you figure out what year they are? Any manuals for the bike would be useful. Any pointers for coolant, gearbox oil and brake/clutch fluid (dot 4?). How often should the steering head and suspension pivots be stripped and regreased?

Hi, got an unknown age 125 4 stroke with a yamaha engine, monoshock. Trying to find out some servicing info or links to manuals for these, engine oil, brake fluid, carb settings etc. It does have quite a loud ticking from the top end, which comes and goes a bit but is there right through the rev range. It runs ok except a bit hesitant at low rpm. Any obvious problems with these engines that would give the ticking?

It’s a Aprilia Climber 280R trials bike. The model Climber was made from 1989 to 1994. I had a 1992 in the 90s, was the first trials bike I competed on.

Thanks for your input Feetupfun! hope all's well with you, sir!.. i had someone else put the new tires on that TY250 you helped me so much with a few years back ..but i'm going to do this Honda one myself...just need to get more confident with these things..won't hurt to have some windex/soap at the ready anyway...just waiting on a few parts and i'll report back!

Tubed Trials tyres usually go on and off so easily using hand levers I don't usually bother with lube but if I was using a machine to fit one, I would use lube to make the sliding part move nicely. I do use lube when changing knobby tyres with hand levers because they have such a stiff construction.

Not sure what you mean by always in gear, if the box will go from 1st to 2nd and vice-versa you're going past neutral. With the bike in neutral the final drive will still turn due to drag on the gears. Put the bike in first gear, then whilst turning the engine gently pull the gear lever up but not hard enough that it goes straight to second, or just tap it gently up with your hand. Hold the final drive with one had and turn the engine, if the box is in neutral the drive won't turn, if it's in a gear you won't stop the final drive turning. It might take a few goes to get neutral, much easier with the engine in the bike and rocking the bike backwards and forwards I'm assuming the detent plunger is fitted and working properly

Tubeless tires yes, the only place a tube tire bead runs tight is at the rim lock plus cars and trucks have a thing called a safety rim but his chrome steel rims lack that feature it will mount with low pressure.

Walk into any tire shop, motorcycle shop, semi truck tire shop, race shop at any track. They all use some sort of mounting lube. LOL.